Midlife

No, green/red is left side turn signal, you should be looking for a green/yellow female bullet plug.

You can simply unplug the factory radio from the main harness and use aftermarket bullet plugs for switched power and lights. I hate to see butchered harnesses that really don't need to be butchered.

The best t-shirt I ever saw was at the UCSD student health center. A gorgeous blonde came out into the waiting room, wearing a t-shirt with a logo from a local bank on the front. On the back it said: "Substantial Penalty For Early Withdrawal".

Turn signal lights will work fine without the hood lamps. Brakes will work fine, except the indicator light won't work and you'll never know if one of your systems is out. Do NOT ground either wire or wire them together: keep them separate.

Armond is quite correct. The purple wires are for the master cylinder brake indicator light. The two prong plug is for the hood turn signal harness.

I'm having trouble finding schematics for the radio reverb. I have a couple of quick questions, so if anyone has a working reverb unit, I'd appreciate a Private Message or e-mail. Thanks!

Another source would be the green/red wire at the voltage regulator: it's only hot when the key is in the RUN position.

I only see the wiring; hardly anyone sends in the actual dash cluster. With over 100 69/70 harnesses I've worked on, I think I've seen one or two actual dash clusters.

Hi Bob. I think this is an awful idea and you should abandon it immediately, as it will take away some of my business refurbishing and converting underdash harnesses to fit OEM tach dash clusters. :001_tongue: Seriously, the 71/73 crowd loves this conversion and I'm sure the 69/70 crowd will do so as well. Randy aka Midlife http://midlife66.com/harnesses

OK...that I can do (and have done several times in the past).

Pertronix I works with factory resistance wires and factory coil. I don't know about the Flamethrower II coil, but to test if your resistance wire is installed or not, run the car and measure the voltage at the + terminal of the coil. If it is ~9V, then the resistance wire is installed; if it is at battery voltage (12V or a bit higher), someone has removed the resistor wire. If so, I can put it back in with some minor effort, but it is not easy for those unfamiliar with that wire, as it cannot be soldered. (Well, it can be soldered but only by silver-solder techniques...)

Ouch. I once converted a 1969 Cougar harness to Mustang, and I vowed never to do that again, as there is so much that is different, including connectors. As for your harness, you have to stick with the factory configuration (either tach or non-tach), due to the constraints of the circuit cards on the back. There is no alt light with a standard dash...

Yes, please do!

Wow...such nice words from everyone. (You'll each be getting the $20 bill I promised in the mail soon, so keep watching the mailbox!) I've got miscellaneous connectors, small sub-harnesses, and other stuff if you need it. Junior2561: I'd love to help you and your harness out. PM me when you're ready to send it in.

Yes, and in 71-73, they are called "Flatbacks". *LOL*

Excellent. You figured it out before I had a chance to reply. Brake light indicator only illuminates when the shuttle inside the switch is forced to one side or another due to improper pressure differentials between the two systems. That light should work (if conditions are right) with any position of the key (except Crank and OFF).

Oil indicator light also has a resistor wire in parallel. The purpose of the resistor wire is not well understood (at least by me...). One purpose is that if the bulb does burn out, the resistor wire takes up the difference in voltage without causing a short. But if that is the case, why not leave the resistor wire out of the circuit? Another purpose may be to allow the light to dim/flicker as voltage changes, but I don't necessarily buy that argument. As for why HiPo Parts includes the LED for the warning lights, it could be that they are right and I may be wrong...I simply suggested the incandescent bulbs as a way of trouble-shooting to isolate the true cause.

I believe idiot lights still have to be incandescent bulbs, as there is a resistor wire in parallel with the bulb. LED's don't have enough resistance to compete with the resistor wires.

OK...fuse box does not control the tail lights: power for those comes from the brake light switch. The left side rear is green/orange wire. My experience in 69-73 tail light bulb sockets indicates that more than 50% have bad continuity inside the socket area. If I remember correctly, 69's have a rubber-like shield on the back of the socket that precludes one from easily getting inside the socket. What happens is that the crimp of the wire to the metal tit gets loose with age and one has to go in and re-crimp it. How do I tell if the socket is bad? I use a sharp needle to pierce the insulation prior to the bulb socket and measure voltage (or resistance). If that checks out, surely the problem is downstream towards the bulb socket. Hope this helps.

Those pins are available from Newark and Digikey for a few cents each if you buy 100 at a time. You need a special tool to crimp both the wire and the insulation (for strain relief) simultaneously.

Sellerrodshop wants to blame his shed burning down on me...I swear, I was with someone else's wife at the time! *G*

On a 69, the resistor wire runs directly from the ignition switch to the molded plug beyond the firewall. I've seen an instance where a customer used an aftermarket (Mallory?) ignition system and fried a small pigtail of the resistor wire which was bypassed for full 12V. In this case, the coil was designed to not have a resistor wire (makes sense...but...). Because you cannot get inside the guts of the molded connector, a short pigtail is left for you to splice in a regular wire. However, the system feeds back large voltage spikes everytime the coil fires and the remaining resistor wire has to take up that voltage spike and drop it back down to 12V. After time, the resistor wire heats up and burns/fries. I now advise all to use an ignition system that accepts a resistor wire or bypass the resistor wire completely: I do not splice into the resistor wire at all. Just my experience with over 250 harnesses...