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Everything posted by Midlife

  1. The speedometer assembly uses magnets and rotating shafts. If debris gets caught up in the area where the inside of the speedo where the needle rotates, the needle will get caught and not read correctly. This often happens when water gets into the speedometer assembly and rusts develops.
  2. Eastwoods's Corroless is another good paint for rusty or clean metal and can be brushed on.
  3. Depends upon the year. For RUN only being hot, the only easy way to tap into the harness in a 70 is at the three prong clear plastic pin connector near the fusebox: red/yellow. It is also available under the hood on the blue two prong plug mating to the alternator (green/red wire). The fusebox is another source, but is typically not recommended. On a 69, there is no good source under the dash. You have to cut/splice a wire with the green/red or red/green wire coming out of the ignition switch. For 12V constant, the best source is the cigarette lighter wire (blue/white), but you have to tap into it or cut and splice wires into the line. This line is fused. Another source is the red/white wire going to the emergency flasher: it is also fused. Both of these lines are tied to the battery via the fuse box.
  4. Guys, it is something to do with the wiper. How do I know? It has the four distinctive colors: red, white, blue, black.
  5. Sam Griffith, the developer of that folddownseat site, was killed overseas while deployed about two years ago. Very sad.
  6. It could be the ground lug, which goes underneath one of the VR bolts.
  7. Nope: cheaper to manufacture since you don't need molding or insulation along the wire for ground lines.
  8. If it has factory undercoating, you have two choices: leave it alone or remove it. If you leave it alone, I would strongly recommend not painting over it. First, it will be covered with tar, grease, dirt, etc., and any paint would not stick to it. Clean it as best as you can and leave it. If you remove it, I recommend using kerosene or gasoline (of course, using proper care). Wire brushing or blasting is OK only if you do plan on repainting it. Often times, removal of the undercoating will reveal possible rust areas which have to be fixed before undercoating or paint is applied. Personally, I prefer the slow method of removal (gas, rags, and elbow grease) to see the actual condition of the underside. Once visible, if there is no rust, simply scuff and paint.
  9. I've examined both harnesses, and Alloy Metal is much closer to OEM design, particularly on the connectors. Of course, I can provide a harness at a 1/4 of the price of either...
  10. I'd sell you one at half that price but I need to keep all of the good ones I have for customers who have damaged their switches. Those switches were used for Mustangs only in 68 and 69. Doesn't Motorcraft still make that switch?
  11. Isn't there a vacuum line to the transmission? I wonder if that may be the cause of the problem...
  12. Yup...tie the two wires together (electrically, that is...).
  13. Most puzzling, since there is really nothing in common between the tach itself and the headlight switch with the sole exception of the tach lamp which is controlled by the dash lamps. That's a separate circuit from the tach itself, which does not require a ground wire.
  14. Standard colors are: green (brake signal) yellow (horn power) blue/yellow (horn output) white/red (e-flasher input) blue (flasher input) green/white (LH turn signal) white/blue (RH turn signal) orange/blue (RH rear turn signal) green/orange (LH rear turn signal) - might match your green/brown That leaves violet, one of the yellows, and brown.
  15. If it reads full with 20 gallons of gas, does it come down reasonably quickly as you use the gas, or does it stay up there for a few gallons? If the latter situation, bending the float won't help much. If the former, the sending unit may be faulty (open circuit at halfthrow). It sounds like the gauge and the sending unit might be incompatible.
  16. A lot of aftermarket sending units and gauges don't match one another for expected signals. If you are using Ford products, then they all should work. It is possible that the new gas float has a pin-hole in it...worth checking out. Does it read full when you have 20 gallons in it?
  17. I just went through this on a 68. The repro turn signal switches are not Mustang specific, so other cars use all 12 wires. One extra wire is red and it should have a pin on the end: just plug it into the hole that matches the empty socket on the main harness connector. The other two wires may be related to the tilt system, but all of my schematics say no. They should have ends covered in plastic---if so, just leave them alone. Match the other wires color for color and you can't go wrong.
  18. Best way to clean fuse clips is to remove the entire harness out of the car, place it in a seal-able bag except for the fuse box, remove the fuses, and put it in a sand blasting cabinet. Blow air on it afterwards and apply dielectric grease to all metal contacts.
  19. You sure you are measuring TDC on the right piston? It should be the forward-most one on the passenger side (unless you are in Australia...).
  20. Thanks for the reference. Usually when a customer starts talking modifications (other than a radio), I usually advise them to look towards aftermarket wiring kits. While I refurbish (and sell) stock harnesses, I can't add modifications because I don't know the length of wires needed for many of them. Since the original poster talked about using an XR7 harness if the first place, I can state with experience that modifying that to fit a Mustang is not trivial. If the OP wants something to run reliably, I would recommend a good refurbished stock harness that is compatible with the Ford tach dash for a lot less money than aftermarket. In addition, I provide a 2 year no questions asked warranty. Aftermarket kits don't have any warranties. Food for thought...
  21. These are available at NAPA and other stores, but if you can't find them, let me know. I've seen both 194 and twist-type styles for side marker lamps.
  22. What was it? Curious minds want to know.
  23. I believe what you are experiencing is hydraulic forcing of the output shaft by the input shaft turning in the tranny, but they are not actually physically engaged. This only happens when the car is running in neutral on a lift (wheels off of the ground). You can stop the wheel rotation with your hand. This condition is perfectly normal.
  24. Corrosion is definitely a problem with soldering if you do not clean the flux off of the joint when you are done. Once clean, however, the solder joint is good.
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