Midlife

Ummm...doesn't the wider brake pedal for the automatic (narrower pedal for manual transmissions) interfere with the clutch pedal?

Most everything runs when either the key is in RUN or ACC, with the exception of the coil and associated voltage regulation wiring that is required when the engine is running. If you don't care that your power needs can be activated with the key in ACC position, use the buss extender that you have. It's good to 20 amps.

Key in RUN only, or ACC? If the latter, there's a buss bar extension on the fuse box that I fabricate based upon the original design.

Does the turn signal work on that side? If not, either a bad connection somewhere (just back doesn't work) or (if both front and back don't work) a bad turn signal switch.

You can try to tie the orange and white wires together as the hot lead; the black wire is the ground, but your radio may not like it. You are much better off getting the two speaker set-up (stereo) replacement unit for the in-dash speaker.

Typically, the motor is attached to the heater box and four studs pass through the firewall to attach the heater box assembly.

+1. You can blow the diodes out of the alternator by disconnecting the battery cable.

If that part is manufactured by AMK, be forewarned that they are notorious for being bad. Get yourself a Motorcraft or electronic VR. In the meantime, get yourself to a good autoparts store and have them check out your charging system: they can diagnose what component is wrong.

Tachman has a very good reputation and does good work. I'm disappointed that he's now gone out of repairing the old Ford tachs, and now converts them to 3 wire configurations, or so I've heard.

http://midlife66.com/harnesses Yes, I can take care of your tail-light sockets. I prefer to work on customer's harnesses, because of mid-year running changes so that you're ensured of having the right harness fit all of your accessories. I can also sell you one out of my stock (that's why I charge for cores) and you can send in yours later on.

The only problem I've read about with DOT 5 is to not shake the bottle before adding it to the MC reservoir: bubbles are entrained and they take an awful long time for the air to come out of solution.

Thanks for all the kind words. I hope to help out Kip here shortly.

That is a factory splice, taking a fused line that has radio power (yellow/black), black/red (backup light power to the NSS/manual transmission), one of the wiper lines (I think it is the washer power?), and power to the wiper motor assembly. Too bad you didn't think of my harnesses before plopping down $800+ for a harness that I sell for $175 and provide a 2 year no questions asked warranty/guaranty.

Kurt Praxl used to work for Jon before he moved to NM. Try him at http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2gsgu/. He does good work!

These are very closely controlled by the Feds and auto makers; these VIN tags are not legally reproduced. You can go to jail if you even tamper with these VIN plates.

This happened to me when I first bought my 66. I traced it to a bad connection at the starter itself, which drew so much current from the battery (lowered the voltage as well) due to the bad connection that the battery could not recover in time once the starter was released. When the starter is released, the power to the coil is now controlled by the ignition switch and the pink resistor wire, so if the battery is low due to the starter, there's not enough voltage at the coil to keep the engine running.

I can hard-wire the 69 and 70 dash clusters with a disconnect plug like 1967/1968 clusters, but to do so requires you to send me your cluster. From overseas, that's rather expensive. I do not like those printed circuit cards, and I know of at least 6 customers of mine who had to buy multiple versions before finding one that worked.

Wrong plug coming from the turn signal switch.

A couple of notes about repro turn signal switches. (1) They usually come with an extra wire. That's because the switch itself is not Mustang specific, but fits most Fords/Lincolns/Mercurys. (2) The rivet heads on the back side are larger than OEM and they may contact the column base (a grounding plane). I always cover the rivet heads with black electrical tape.

I've never heard or seen one of these. Can you take a picture?

Wow! I did an exhaustive survey of all of my stashes and did not have a single parking brake harness. I must have confused that with the seat belt warning harness. Sorry folks.

Black/green is the ACC output to all ACC systems; it is converted to ACC from BATT by the ignition switch. green/red or red/green is the primary wire that goes from the ignition to the coil, sometimes via a tach.

I have multiple copies of the parking brake harness, and I manufacture the fuse box buss bar and extension wire. Both can be had for about $35. PM me if you are still in need of these.

I looked briefly through the 70 shop manual and couldn't find anything on the ignition switch (probably didn't look hard enough), but remember, these shop manuals covered all makes and models from Blue Oval. Ahhh...found it Pg 33-02-06. Yes, that description is a general description for all makes/models.

The purple wire powers the brake master cylinder centering switch; it is not a proof-out circuit. The red/white wire is occasionally used for the proof-out circuit for the oil pressure lamp; it definitely is not used in 70 nor 1971 Mustangs, but is used on other vehicles. For 1970 the pink resistor wire goes from the fuse box to the gauge plug in the engine compartment (standard dash) or from the tach plug (tach dash). The wire going to the ignition is green/red or red/green. These aftermarket ignition switches are generic switches, not Mustang specific. They will work, however.