Midlife

No, that's the battery post. You want the post that has a S next to it. (S = Stator).

Well...one connector is different: the speakers! The AM has a two prong plug (signal, ground), and the AM/FM stereo is a three-prong: left, right, ground. The stock AM/FM non-stereo should be the same as the AM.

Do your radio and backup lights work? The arm return works off of the same fuse: uppermost left hand fuse.

I believe you can also change caster by rotating the UCA bolt multiple times relative to the UCA itself: essentially moving the UCA arm forward or backwards relative to the pivoting shaft with the two bolts. I may be wrong, however.

Just don't disconnect the alternator while the car is running. Do it with everything off. Otherwise, you can blow the diodes in the alternator.

My experience is that it isn't the wires that get worn, but the dimmer switch itself doesn't do a good job of switching and can generate a ground plane for the incoming power line when it is severely worn.

Using the condom works only if the water is up to the overflow tube. The test is to see if additional air is added to the condom. If everything is working correctly, the condom will inflate with liquids, not gas.

Green with yellow stripe above the driver's side rear wheelwell. Well done, Mike!

A great way to tell if what the true temperature is in the water is to use an infrared sensor for about $45 at the auto parts store. Aim it at the thermostat housing and you'll get a reading accurate to +/- 5*.

The Osborne Electrical Assembly Manual spell that out pictorially pretty well.

Right on! This design by Ford sucks big time. Those circuit card flap connectors are nearly next to worthless. If someone wants to provide me an underdash harness and a dash cluster, I'll refurbish the harness and hard wire the cluster with a decent connector between the two, eliminating the circuit card. I need both to physically determine wire length runs from the cluster to the connector. Once I have this finished, I'll have a template that I can use in the future for converting clusters (eliminating the circuit card) to a sub-harness. I'd imagine the cost of converting an underdash and a cluster harness to be on the order of $50-$75, with reliability much higher than the circuit card provides. Any takers on my offer of a free refurbishment?

That's normal. There are three places for grounds: the clock circuit on the RH side, the dash cluster, and a ring connector near the headlight switch. Since the dash cluster is in the middle, the two other connectors are single wires, which join up at the dash cluster.

I manufacture and thus sell those Buss Bar and connectors for the ACC fuse box for $20 plus shipping if you are interested. http://midlife66.com/harnesses

The wire comes from the ignition switch connector, controlled directly by the keyed ignition. You use that wire as the trigger for the relays.

There are a number of options, but the one that is always available on both 69 and 70's, tach and non-tach, is the green/red or red/green (sometimes red/yellow) on the ignition plug. Just splice into that wire and you're good to go.

Pin order for 69 non-tach dash: Dash Cluster Pin 2 green/white Dash Cluster Pin 4 red/white Dash Cluster Pin 5 yellow/white Dash Cluster pin 6 purple Dash Cluster pin 7 red/yellow Dash Cluster pin 8 black Dash Cluster pin 11 black Violet Dash Cluster pin 12 blue/red Dash Cluster pin 13 white/blue Dash Cluster pin 14 white/red Dash Cluster pin 15 green/black Dash Cluster pin 16 yellow Dash Cluster pin 17 red

Get an IR thermometer sensor (auto parts stores have them for $35-$75), and read the water temperature at the thermostat housing and compare to your gauge readings. You'll be able to get a real good idea of what the gauge is indicating.

OMG...that's probably the issue. One cannot willy-nilly change incoming wires on the circuit card. You need to compare your dash cluster wire colors to what should be there. I can provide that info to you, but I would need to know if you have a factory tach dash or non-tach dash.

Actually, you can wire the solenoid backwards as DBElectric shows and it will still work. Just don't swap the I and S small wires!

I've seen both 1895's and 194's in the rear side marker lamps on 69's and 70's...kinda weird that they were not consistent throughout the years.

Battery side of solenoid.

Well trained ferrets work well. *G*

Ahhhh...but blaming a PO (Previous Owner) is a must when dealing with these cars!

Speaker plugs into a plug coming from the radio and not from the main harness, whether monaural or stereo.

I have a dozen or so of them, $5 plus $2.50 shipping. NPD is also now selling them. Contact me at harnesses at fusemail.com