Midlife

Dave is correct and TexasEd is incorrect. The difference between ACC and RUN is only that the ignition run lines are energized, as well as some instrument gauge lights and the voltage regulator lines become energized as well. You can trouble-shoot just about everything electrically with the key in ACC except the ignition circuitry. Please avoid keeping the key in the RUN position without the engine running, as you'll burn up points in no time and possibly damage electronic ignition circuitry.

I've not heard that, but I do know that leaving the key in RUN with the engine not running is definitely bad for points and I would suspect electronic ignition systems. Rarely do ignition systems require ACC power: they almost always use RUN lines for power. The ACC position is one click counter-clockwise from the key insert position (OFF).

Your message folder is full. I'd be interested in the underdash and possibly the headlight harnesses. Message me for more details if you're interested.

The sail lights should be plugged into a female bullet at the A pillar into a black/blue set of wires; it appears you plugged it into a green/yellow female bullet.

Here's some old data I collected circa 2000 using a D-cell battery at 1.565V. 1/16 of gauge deflection required 13.3 ohms, yielding 0.118 amps 1/8: 7.3 ohms, 0.24 amps 1/4: 2.8 ohms, 0.559 amps 3/8: 2.2 ohms, 0.711 amps 1/2 deflection: 1.8 ohms, 0.869 amps I believe the gauge is truly an ammeter, not a voltmeter. If true, this gives you an idea of the DC current that flows through those two ammeter wires. Note that it is somewhat non-linear.

Each splice for the two ammeter lines are on the side away from the starter solenoid. The OEM splice is a large molded junction that is cylindrical in shape. You can feel the splice through the tape---sorta like a snake that has swallowed a large rodent. One needs a micro-ohm-meter to measure the resistance (and thus the difference in resistance), and those machines cost hundreds of $$. Those machines actually measure seimens (the inverse of resistance). I don't even have one, but have used them at work.

If you click on the little blue dot to the left of the thread, it takes you to the next unread post in the thread.

Danno: I like your suggestion: it makes sense. The Ford system uses the difference in resistance between a 16 and a 10 gauge wire of approximately 3 feet or so; I don't believe there is enough difference there to make up your 0.02 ohms. The internal DC resistance of wire is very sensitive to the gauge of individual strands and the number of strands that make up the insulated wire as well. The two points of measurement are the first OEM splice behind the starter solenoid and a second splice on the main power line where the alternator ties into the main power line. Yes, yes, I know...the alternator attaches directly to the starter solenoid as well, but there's another junction further down the main power line.

Oh, I don't think anyone intended to add a resistor wire to the main power feed, only to the two lines that go to the ammeter within the underdash harness.

I'm no longer receiving notifications of new private messages, and the folder size was reduced to only 50 posts. Is there any way I can increase the size of my message folder?

Very top, at the right.

There's no guaranty that this will work...just using my knowledge/experience and a hunch, so be careful!

No resistance in a glass fuse. I'd use the ceramic type of resistor, but keep it away from other wires as it will get hot.

No, you need to add a resistor in line with one of the ammeter lines, not across the two terminals. I'd start with a 10 ohm resistor, perhaps using the wiring for a in-line glass fuse holder. Insert it on either the yellow or red line on the harness itself.

I rarely see bad continuity or connectors for the ammeter lines. I think it was just a crappy design Ford used. To make the ammeter work better, you actually need to add resistance to one of the lines, so the more corroded a connector is, the better performance ot the ammeter! Go figure...

Yes: when the dimmer switch connector is taken off of the switch, only the center (red/black) will be hot and only when the headlight switch is fully pulled out.

I'd have to dig up from my files where I bought my tools, but IIRC, it was a tool distributor in FL somewhere that sells ratcheting devices with multiple dies for all sorts of crimping applications. The tool is marked "Eclipse" Lunar. http://shop.eclipsetools.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;PRODUCTS_DTL?cat=100.0032

That probably was me. That probably is me.

I was going to offer my services, but the original poster indicated a number of modifications that may preclude my work.

Yeah, running halogens on the stock headlight switch is known to be an issue. Most people convert over to relays triggered by the low and high beam signals coming from the headlight switch. You'll need two relays: one for the low and one for the high beams.

I believe I have two passenger sides w/o stereo (I'm not certain of which side they are...one is marked "p.s.". If you can PM me with a picture of your driver's side, I can compare that to what I have. Cost would be $20 plus shipping.

Don't tell your friends that you can "help them get it up"...they may take it wrong...

Danno got it. The picture on the left shows the clock harness 2 pin plug (an accessory...if you don't have it, leave it alone) along with a single blue/red female bullet that's also part of the clock harness. The male bullet with two blue/black wires is for courtesy lights: underdash, rear quarter panels, etc. It doesn't have to be filled. The picture on the right shows the connector to the heater switch, and the two green wires with single covered spades are for the AC controller. What's hidden behind the wires is a dual pin (both female) plug. The wire colors should be yellow/black and blue/red, and that is for the radio power/lights. There are two bulbs in that picture: the top one is for the ignition switch, IIRC, and the second may well be for the heater switch. The second bulb is a long, skinny bulb that if you follow the wire, you'll find it is plugged into the main underdash harness. Normally, I associate those bulbs with the shifter lamp, but this is an area that I'm not as familiar with. Give Danno a gold star for filling in while I was gone.

+1. I think I used Simple Green instead of Tide, then dyed them with RIT and they came out great!

+1. I think I used Simple Green instead of Tide, then dyed them with RIT and they came out great!