Midlife
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Posts posted by Midlife
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18 minutes ago, Boss429Dreamer said:Check this out: Mustang Tach Cluster (boss302.com) I did this to my car, works great. I am running original points distributor so don't know if it will work with HEI setup.
Not entirely correct, as it does not address the installation of the alternator indicator lamp, which requires a 15 ohm resistor wire embedded in the harness.
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2 hours ago, maxum96 said:Randy,
do all stock non-tach 1970 dash harnesses have the provision for have a factory clocked plugged into them?
All 69 and 70 underdash harnesses, regardless of tach or not, have provisions for clocks. The wiring for 69's are slightly different than the 70 version.
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24 minutes ago, potato said:My car has no tach. I would like have one. Under the hood, its got a HEI distributor with a 1-wire alternator. I say all that in case that affects my options.
If possible, I'd like to stick with the factory style gauges. But if I'm understanding correctly, the printed circuit is different as well as some of the pin locations in the big connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.
Maybe the easiest option is the ugliest one. Get an aftermarket standalone tach that clamps to the steering column in front of the other gauges.
I have seen the Dakota Digital and VintageUSA gauge kits. Neither one of them look like they are plug and play. The dakota digital one looks like a 1-size-fits-every-car brain box they use and then you have to pluck apart your wiring harness to jumper to the dakota digital box, and when you're done, you still have things that don't interface together. Like requiring a separate pot to dim the dash.
The VintageUSA kits also look like they are not plug-and-play. It does look like maybe they end up using the existing dash lighting, so the existing dimmer would work on them. However, the turn signals and bright light indicator look like an after thought.
I see some dashes with holes for 6 gauges. I'm not clear on whether or not these even have turn signals and bright light indicators. https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-instruments-6-gauge-set-velocity-series-with-scott-drake-wood-grain-6-hole-instrument-bezel-1969-1970/p/CIVB1KW-V/
Is there something obvious I overlooked? Is there an easy way to convert the non-tach car to the factory tach style setup? And if so, will that work with an HEI distributor? I have a "tach out" terminal available. Otherwise, are there any aftermarket gauges that are more plug and play?
You pretty much have nailed it. Easiest, cheapest option is a stand-alone tach. Would run $60-100.
Aftermarket dash clusters are certainly not plug-n-play, fairly expensive, then add in your labor (or someone else's) to wire it and you're looking an $800+ easy.
There's some jerk named Midlife that can convert underdash harnesses to tach compatible. But...you'll first need to find a factory tach dash. Those now run $1000-1500 in good shape. Add in wiring changes for everything forward of the tail-light and you're looking at another $3-400.
Final option is to sell your car and find another one that already has a tach. Downside is that you now have a new set of unknown issues to fix...
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I've found the majority of the clock harnesses, as installed in the factory harness, have bad continuity due to the tight turns in the wiring under stress. That could be your problem.
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I like the gloves on the front of the frame rails: looks like they want to grab a beer or two...
stangs-R-me reacted to this -
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That's a clip that holds the heater lamp wire. I suspect the wire is broken where that clip goes. Try following the lamp socket back along the wire.
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On 5/27/2022 at 6:01 PM, nickjames138 said:
That spreadsheet looks awfully familiar...
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1 hour ago, aslanefe said:Are they worth parting out?
I'm sure the amount of rust removal involved would tell the story...
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Welcome to the world of reality vice precision engineering.
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Tap into the green/red or red/green wire coming from the ignition switch for power for the aftermarket tach. There should be a single blue/red wire coming down into the center console area that you can tap into; if you can't find that, tap into the blue/red wire for the factory radio plug for the light. You'll need a ground wire and a signal wire going out to the - side of the coil.
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Try to remove one piece at a time and then replace it. If you remove too many items before replacement, the car may likely fold in half. Many people weld in square or tube supports to keep the car aligned.
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Safety and/or reliability engineers are the worst. How do I know? I are them!
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Ooops. Most folks get $40! LOL
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The two female plug has yellow/black (radio power) and blue/red (radio lamp power).
The female plug in lower part of red circle is blue/red and is for lamp power for optional clock. The orange spliced wire is probably power for the turn signal flasher can.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
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If you have no voltage to center two clips (BATT) on the bottom of the fuse box, the most probable cause is that the wire going to the back side of the fuse box has broken off. I see this about 10-15% of the time. Disconnect the battery, remove the fuse box and inspect the two large wires where they attach to the center taps of the fuse clips on the back side of the fuse box.
capemustang reacted to this -
Do it! Unless the 429 engine is old, tired, and needs to be rebuilt. You'll love the grunt off the line with this beast!
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One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.
What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty. From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.
capemustang and Caseyrhe reacted to this -
Are you calling me Slow? I make up for my slowness in being ornery but always right!
Or are you calling out for some Sloe, as in gin?
What did you do to/for your Mustang today?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Geez, they let just about anyone foreign looking into the county back then.