Midlife

Nice job! Time to sit back, have a cold one, and pat yourself on the back.

Heat can expand the battery post connector such that it isn't making good contact with the battery post. This was on Car Talk just this morning!

I want 10% of the royalties...*G* Not my attachments.

Daayum...RidgeRunner: you are da man! What else can you come up with besides fiberglass custom hoods and drip rail removal/installation tools? Have you thought about quitting your day job?

S wire will only have 12V when key is in CRANK, not RUN. It's the signal for the starter solenoid to send voltage to the starter motor.

Those are fine looking cats! Kinda large, though...

Can you cut the pins off and use emblem glue? That would save you from drilling that new paint.

Dash lamps are notoriously dim, mostly due to the aging of the blue diffusers and low output of the 194 bulbs. Not much one can do to the factory set-up to improve brightness.

The CVR is needed for factory fuel, oil, or temperature gauges and sending units.

It's cut because someone decided to bypass the constant voltage regulator or it simply broke off of the dash cluster connector pin.

Those are standard trailer plugs. You can find them at www.delcity.net look under trailer plugs.

Male end of those connectors? You referring to the bullet plugs or the ring connector on the post?

That's the way to do it.

Wiggins machine shop has the best reputation in town, but I don't know how much experience they have with FE's. I'm also from Panama City (actually Lynn Haven) and work on Navy helicopters. Small world, eh?

Take the wire nut off and inspect the wire itself: is it a single strand? If so, it is a resistor wire for either the CVR input or for the alternator indicator lamp. If not, it is a brake proportioning valve signal wire. My guess is the former, based upon the violet/white wire nearby, which is the brake line.

e-flasher: four way emergency flasher system.

Good idea, but that doesn't explain why the front left turn signal isn't working. My thoughts are that the turn signal switch is going bad. One test is to use the e-flasher (four way flasher) and see if the left side bulbs work. That system bypasses the turn signal yet uses the same wiring to the front and rears. If the left side flashes, then it's the turn signal. If not, the problem is in both the front and rear wiring.

Linky no worky.

Your oil gauge will only read when the fan is on. Am I mis-understanding what you're trying to do?

Correct Tire pressure can best be determined by running the car over a stream of water on the pavement. Watch for the patch of water the tire leaves behind after running through the water. At the far end when there's almost no water, the pattern should be even across the width of the tire track.

I checked my stockpile of miscellaneous wiring and didn't find a glove box light switch. Sorry.

I remember buying corn from a farm that also had dairy cows at the site of Jack Murphy stadium back in the early 60's. Then they built Fascist Valley Mall as well...sigh... My grandfather homesteaded cattle in Fletcher Hills back in the 1910's. My, how SD has changed over the years.

There's a green/red wire at the voltage regulator that is only hot when the key is in RUN, but it may not work when the key is in CRANK.

I prefer NPD for their 24/7 toll-free lines and superb customer service; everything is in stock.. Right behind them is one company not mentioned: VA Classic Mustangs. Again, superb customer service, reasonable prices, almost always in stock. Only drawback is a non-toll-free phone line and Sundays off. For shelby specific stuff, Cobranda.com is good. These are about the only three companies I consistently deal with.

The turn signal switch. Do your 4-way flashers all work?