Midlife

Jiggle the automatic shifter while trying to crank when it doesn't crank. Sometimes those NSS switches are troublesome. Sometimes trying to start the car in Neutral rather than Park is another way to check the NSS.

By any chance did you replace the water pump? By mis-placing the various bolts, one can interfere with the fuel pump and give you exactly the problems indicated.

Metro Parts Market near the Atlanta airport has a very good reputation.

I was at a Pensacola FL MCA show several years ago, and someone brought a gorgeous black 66 that had been hopped up quite a bit. It had even appeared in a magazine a few months before, so everyone was surrounding the car. I took a look at the fender VIN and it was stamped "X" for engine size, which didn't exist in 1966. The stamping was a bit off as well. I asked the owner about the X engine code and she immediately went silent and said no more, probably thinking I was from the FL DMV or something. The owner knew exactly what I was asking about...had to know. That car is unsaleable IMHO.

No stars on fender VIN is a big red flag. BIG! This is probably a stolen car that has been re-stamped.

Guillaume: what do the fender aprons say is the VIN? The stamped dataplate is not the official source for the VIN, but the fender aprons are.

Great! I'll put up RPM's arm and a leg for a weekend's use around Thanksgiving time. Pencil me in.

If it is a 3.0:1, it probably isn't worth much. Those that are 3.25 or 3.5:1 are much more attractive, particularly to the Shelby crowd. If it is from a Mustang, it can only be a 3.5:1 in an 8 inch and the year is 65/66.

That's what I recommend all of my customers who want to upgrade to halogen bulbs. This is one slick product; highly recommended. Bob is easy to work with as well.

That is basically a true statement. I simply suggested a cheaper alternative should that be a factor in deciding how to go. I refurbish many headlight harnesses over the years, and have seen a higher incidence of brittle insulation, but it is still less than 10% of the time. When I see that, it usually means that I trash that harness and replace it with another one.

Another, cheaper option, is to consider a refurbished headlight harness from Midlife Harness Restorations. http://midlifeharness.com

I use Ad Blocker...I don't see this stuff at all.

I think Tonyinsandiego wants this set-up...

Single green wire is your clutch AC lead.

There you go! I'll wager that if you have a Ford original tach, it may not read correctly with two wires in tandem.

It is hot while cranking, but it can't be used to replace the pink resistor wire, as the feedback from the starter solenoid does not run through that system. While cranking, the voltage will be significantly lower than 12V. That may work if you break the pink resistor wire from the circuit, so long as you keep the line (I wire) from the starter solenoid to the engine gauge feed. I won't guarantee, however, that the system would work...but it would be interesting to try. Also, the white female bullet is fused, so if the fuse blows, the car would shut down. Something to think about...

Yes...there's this nice little bar in Monaco: Bar Du Quai. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Quai+des+Artistes/@43.7325299,7.4237902,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc048f0c57c7f0282!8m2!3d43.7325299!4d7.4237902

Say what??? The NSS/BU harness plug is a four pin affair...the design of the white male bullet connector for the oversize female bullet socket can't fit the standard bullet, as the molded connector is twice as big in diameter as normal. What you state here makes no sense to me...

The two wire female bullet is for your PRNDL shifter lamp. The blue wire should have a white female bullet, and that is for your carb solenoid signal. It is a RUN-only line.

That's properly http://midlife66.com/harnesses or http://midlifeharness.com I don't typically stock engine gauge feed harnesses, as they are different for each engine and I can't ID them to a specific engine.

It needs a spam post somewhere inconspicuously located...*G*

There is no fusible link or a resistor wire on the main power feed for 1969; it was somewhere mid-year of the 1970 production that a fusible link was added. There were fusible links for unusual systems, such as power windows, rear defogger, etc., but I have not run across them in 1969. A current draw of 9 to 10 milliamps is quite acceptable, usually traced to a clock or a radio memory device. That level of draw you see should not draw the battery down 25% unless your battery is on its last legs. The only resistor wires in a 69 are for the alternator lamp and for the CVR input feed, neither of which should be active with the key in the OFF position. I'd love to see a picture of the two resistor wires you claim are near the starter solenoid.

If no one wants them, consider donating them to Opentracker Racing Products: http://opentrackerracing.com/

A great driving road without traffic? Wonderful! Great scenery. I was so impressed with the countryside in southern and central France and Switzerland when I visited there in 1988.

It's too late now...might as well add in some ice cream to even things out. Ask me how I know...