Midlife

OK. Let me check my PM box to make sure it's not full. It is prolly your computer, which has been giving you fits lately.

I've also read about Industrial grade molasses, mixed 1:9 with water. Completely non-toxic, but it does take a while to work (days). The best thing about EvapoRust (which the concours guys love!) is that you can see paint markings beneath the rust after you pull the part out. The paint will wash off when you clean the part, though.

That's not rust: that's called "patina". *G* Good luck with the car. The rear quarters look problematic, but the rest of the seems reasonably solid. You're going to have a lot of fun! Enjoy.

Dibs on the underdash harness!

Nice!

Was the car so cheap because it didn't have a title? Did the owner not have a clue as to the possible worth even as a parts car?

It's destined to be bought and taken to Australia!

Nah...the intent was just before you ran over the pedestrian, these marker lamps would help guide you to the optimum line.

Thief! Someone call the police! Excellent score. You see, it pays to be self-unemployed so one can take advantage of these types of things.

Fixed it for you! I got the usual assortment of clothing and things to eat to make me even fatter. Oink!

You have an e-mail!

Have you thought about black chrome for the brightwork?

I don't have good answers for you, as I never saw the bad boards; only reporting what my customers tell me.

The VIN looks fishy: VIN: 0000001770A

You have two choices: (1) I provide the dash cluster harness with a quick disconnect and a matching connector and wire pigtails. You are responsible for splicing in the existing dash cluster wires into the pigtails. (2) Send in your underdash harness for refurbishment and I'll do the conversion plus provide the dash cluster harness.

Good luck on swapping the circuit card. I have had many customers complain that they had to go through 2 or 3 of them before one worked. That's why I offer hard-wiring the 69/70 dash clusters: see http://midlifeharness.com/products.html

I think I've just been called "old" and/or computer-disabled. *sigh* Hey! You youngsters! Get off my lawn, NOW! Dammit...

You really need to upgrade your 286 computer...

Most aftermarket gauges are three wires: ground, power, and signal. You can test each gauge by providing ground and power using a 9V transistor battery, then briefly attach a ground lead to the signal post: the gauge should peg high. On stock gauges, do the same thing but there is no ground lead: apply power to the post that has power coming from the CVR and briefly ground the signal post.

The three post starter solenoid is for starters with integral relays, which came out circa 1980's.

Those flat pins are not OEM; the round ones are. The connectors for the flat pins are not OEM as well. The Scott Drake turn signal switch has the correct pins, but you're missing the male and female plastic connectors and the male pins that come from the underdash harness. I may have one connector for the female pins and I know I have the connector with the male pins. And for me knowing what is good for turn signal switches out there? They all seem to go bad after a couple of years with reasonable use. Ford NOS switches would probably be the best but very expensive.

I think I just was called fat...*G*

With headlight pulled, probe the plug that is there for the clock and check on the underdash side the female blue/red wire for voltage. It should be less than 12V, though. This test will indicate whether you have power or not. By the way, the dash cluster regulator has nothing to do with the lamps, only with the oil, temperature and fuel gauges.

Damn...I thought wet dreams were only when one was asleep.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKUOB8MN4Kc