Midlife
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Posts posted by Midlife
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11 minutes ago, RPM said:Is the hip damage a result of kicking too much a$$? I sure hope they've given you meds until the surgery. Best wishes for a successful replacement and quick recovery.
I wish...to both! I have severe osteoarthritis throughout my body. I do have prescriptions for pain pills, but the pain doctor is wary of me taking too many. It's to the point where I can barely move around, even with pain. I wish Feb was here already!
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
SUSPENSION OF REFURBISHMENT: I am in need of a hip
replacement, scheduled for early February. I am in great pain
and can no longer spend time on my workbench repairing
wiring harnesses. I will resume operations sometime after
surgery, so please check back approximately mid-March.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE -
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Anyone accuse you of being a packrat?
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9 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:Watch those little bulbs ,they can crush in your fingers while removing ,had one slice my thumb good once
I like using the rubber mats one finds in the kitchen for stuck jar tops to remove stubborn bulbs.
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Power for 950 does come from the top leftmost fuse, same as radio and backup lights.
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Damn straight. If you want love, it costs big time!
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Should be part of the main underdash harness. Look for a squarish plug with 3 wires on the passenger side, probably located now behind the kick panel. The wires are black/yellow, red, and blue.
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I typically cut the pins off, fold the wires and then put heat shrink over the exposed end for insulation; then wrap them inside the harness tape so they are not seen. For extra protection, you can also remove those pins from the back of the fuse box and do the same thing.
You need to keep the 3 pin used version of the voltage regulator connector and do not use the version for the alternator indicator lamp (4 pin version).
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When this happens again, jiggle the shifter and see if it starts. If it does, then the neutral safety switch/backup light module needs alignment/adjustment. It is located at the transmission.
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3 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:NPD sells Alloy Metal Products harnesses which are just like the original. BTW, fusiible links weren't used until 1970.
I've seen a fusible link on a 1969 headlight harness, but that seems to be a rare exception.
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Good luck, as most databases don't go back before 1900.
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9 hours ago, RPM said:Old? You're a year younger than me, you ain't old. Now the other two guys replying to this thread...
You talking to me? Watch it bub...both Mach1Driver and i control the smoke Jeannie in your Mustang...so be nice to us!
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Sounds definitely like one of your gauges (not ammeter) is shorted to case. Measure resistance from gauge post to dash cluster housing and if you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the gauges is shorted. You'll need to loosen up the gauge nuts, move the gauge around, and then tighten the nut back up and try again. The problem is that any one of the non-ammeter gauges is shorted, and since they are all connected via the IVR output, you won't be able to identify which gauge is shorted. Another solution is to wrap the small rectangular hole that the gauge posts stick out from the back of the dash cluster with black electrical tape.
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These are wires going to the ignition switch? OK...strong violet but thin wire is one branch of the proportioning brake valve signal line.
Pink resistor wire is paired with green/red wire for non-tach applications. You CANNOT solder resistor wires unless you are experienced with silver solder which jewelers use. The wire won't accept normal solder and must be butt-spliced.
These have nothing to do with dash lamps nor does the shorted circuit card described by Mach1Driver. The problem probably lies in the fuse box clip contacts or the headlight rheostat within the headlight switch.
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17 minutes ago, dmdsprite said:I sent a message saying "Do you have the measurements of the radio?"
He responded "no"
Guess I should have asked more directly.
Sounds like he doesn't want to take the time to measure...
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The higher candlepower lamp may be hotter in actual temperature than the 194 bulb, and may cause your blue diffuser to melt...just a thought.
You might want to consider LED bulbs as a replacement for anything but the alternator indicator lamp, which requires an incandescent bulb to work the voltage regulator.
bigmal and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Get the body in shape, including everything that is structural. Without that foundation, everything else will be harder to do. Once done, concentrate on getting it to be a roller (brakes, steering, suspension) so you can trailer it to a paint shop in the future. Before paint, make sure the doors, fenders, windows, etc. all fit correctly. Then after paint, consider installing the wiring next, then the engine and interior. It will be a long process...so be patient.
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Lower Door Repair And Related
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
If you use cardboard to make templates, you can then call this CAD: cardboard Aided Design!
I've heard used pizza boxes are best to use...