Midlife

I've always read best to install subframe connectors with full weight on wheels and with car up on a hoist for ease of access.

I sure hope the hip replacement is permanent!!!

Damn, that's the first correct answer out of the last 8,439 responses! I'm slipping, I tell ya...

Make sure your headlight switch is not fully turned to the left!

That's not good to have a radiator hose kinked that severely; it may stop water flowing.

Are your rear drums adjusted? If there's a lot of space between the pads and drum, your brake pedal will feel much as you described. The brake fluid must be going somewhere without affecting the braking ability.

It's been a while since we've had an update. Any progress?

How is the rubber on the transmission mount? You might want to check motor mounts as well.

It's about a factor of 10 too high.

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

Stupid design engineers or penny-pinching bean-counters.

RPM: Don't you have some flooding to deal with or to at least watch cars go into gullies that are flooded out?

By replacing the circuit card, your gauges are probably shorting out to the metal case. Measure resistance between any gauge post and the metal dash cluster itself, and if you see 1 or 14 ohms (approximate), then one of them has shorted (all are connected via the CVR output line except for the ammeter). Loosen the nuts and re-set the gauge until you get kilo-ohm resistance. There should not be a separate ground line to the dash cluster; there is a separate ground line that attaches to every item that uses a ground, including the main lug that holds the CVR in place. The latter is how the dash cluster itself gets its ground, in addition to any screws that holds it in place.

Grey is probably the carb anti-stall wire. You can ignore that. The PRNDL wire is brown or blue/red. And yes, the BU and NSS wires are all in the same plug.

NSS wire colors are red/blue. Most Ford molded connectors are standard trailer connectors. You can find many of them with pigtails (but not with the correct Ford wire colors) at https://www.delcity.net/store/Molded-Connectors-without-a-Loop/p_8593

I've used a kitchen or large garbage trash bag, folded over, under each wheel to assist in caster/camber measuring. The tool that I have is an old bubble gauge, but quite accurate. It was also quite cheap, less than $50, IIRC.

There are a couple of different sizes of 90* connectors: you want one that fits a #10 bolt. I found a source for them, and relayed that information to NPD. Since then, they contacted AMP who makes most of the aftermarket wiring harnesses, and ordered a bunch of 90* connectors with wire pigtails. The part number is: 14489-12A https://www.npdlink.com/product/connector-90-degree/209677?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dwire%2Bconnector%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

My feelings exactly! My work colleagues made up my cubicle name tag: Curmudgeon. I wish i still had that name-plate...

Yup, got it replaced about 10 days ago and now under physical therapy. Otherwise, I'm still the same crotchety bastard I've always been...

What? You have hair left? Damn young punk...

The box carriers (UPS, FedEx) occasionally do the same thing. I think there's a gremlin in each organization that randomly takes a box and puts it in a vehicle that isn't the right one for it...and off it goes into the wild blue yonder!

I used a penny to scrape most of the adhesive off the back side of windshield trim, then used solvent to make it purty. Anything softer than stainless or aluminum will work as a scraper and not leave marks.

RR: any other colors this paint comes in?

Nice find!

Boy, did this thread got detoured...