Midlife

AS to when this forum will go down in September due to bandwidth issues. My prediction: Sept. 11.

The more I think about the issue, I believe the ammeter gauges were designed to let one know when either the battery or the alternator completely fails, and not for use during normal driving conditions. It's intent was to act as a gauge equivalent to the alternator indicator lamp: if it deflects, it means something is dreadfully wrong.

I don't know the length off the top of my head. Each year seems to be different as well. This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all. Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so. Corrosion at contact points are well above this level. Unfortunately, this is not a precision system. Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well.

I just contributed!

Sounds very much like a vacuum leak to me!

Apparently, a BOT was using enough bandwidth that the system ran out of allotted bandwidth. The service provider has apparently blocked that from happening again. But yes, more money paid to the provider would allow more bandwidth to be used per month.

I'd recommend staying away from anything Scott Drake, as they now have a reputation of putting their name on the cheapest part available.

I know my 2006 seats wouldn't work as one set of screws/bolts are horizontal, going into a cross-brace which the first generation Mustangs don't have.

Due to the rising costs of shipping, I am planning on raising rates in August. First raise in rates since 2008.

Something is obviously miswired or you have a shorted wire somewhere that's cross-feeding from turn signal to Neutral Safety Switch wiring. Nothing obvious comes to my mind as to why that is. The started is controlled by red/blue wires; dash lamps are blue/red wires, but still, no obvious connection. Left turn signal is green/white.

Well, this isn't the first time I would be wrong...

Wow. Another reason why I can't really understand what are the reasons for the variances...I prefer to restore customer's wiring so I know it is appropriate to their vehicle. Otherwise, it is simply a crap shoot and I don't like that at all! Now it is even more of a crapshoot!

There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess. One variant is specific with dual exhaust. I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them. Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off. Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.

Lizard skin on the exterior of the car? Isn't that bedliner? WTF?

The constant voltage regulator can be adjusted but it affects the fuel, oil, and temperature gauges. On the back of the CVR is either a small post or screw, often potted in epoxy. Turning it one way or another changes all 3 gauges at the same time. My preference is to ensure I have a 1/4 tank of gas, and set the CVR so that the fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank exactly. Both the oil and water gauges are "indicator gauges", in that once you determine where normal is, once they deviate from that position, then something is amiss. They are not precision instruments.

My e-mail provider is terminating support for the domain that I was using. So, I need to switch e-mail addresses. Please use: harnesses66@gmail.com

No; she's a professional archeologist and I'm simply a bum.

Thread sealant acts as an insulator.

I cut a slot out of a 2x4 such that the pinch weld wasn't touching the bottom of the slot. Then, I used that 2x4 with a 2 post lift when I needed to access frame rails and other areas normally used as a lift point.

My replacement hip is back to near normal, and the wife's hip replacement is doing good as well. So...I guess I need to inform everyone that I'm now back in business! Thanks for your patience.

I believe the squarebirds website has the Master Parts Catalog available for free downloads. If you want an individual Shop Manual, then Forel is the place to go. Forel's certification process is cumbersome and not trouble-free; at least a few years ago. I believe they've upgraded the process.

No retainer clip. You do need to remove the headlight knob and the shaft by pressing on the button on the bracket and pulling the knob completely out.

The ground wire for the washer pump is tied to the driver's side ground lug.

Almost all custom muffler shops have lifts with ramps to support the car on its suspension. I'm sure they would be happy to install your subframes for a nominal fee.

I've always read best to install subframe connectors with full weight on wheels and with car up on a hoist for ease of access.