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Midlife

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Posts posted by Midlife

  3. Posted · Report reply

    The more I think about the issue, I believe the ammeter gauges were designed to let one know when either the battery or the alternator completely fails, and not for use during normal driving conditions.  It's intent was to act as a gauge equivalent to the alternator indicator lamp: if it deflects, it means something is dreadfully wrong.

    bigmal reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I don't know the length off the top of my head.  Each year seems to be different as well. 

    This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all.  Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so.  Corrosion at contact points are well above this level.  Unfortunately, this is not a precision system.  Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well. 

    bigmal and Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Something is obviously miswired or you have a shorted wire somewhere that's cross-feeding from turn signal to Neutral Safety Switch wiring.  Nothing obvious comes to my mind as to why that is.  The started is controlled by red/blue wires; dash lamps are blue/red wires, but still, no obvious connection.  Left turn signal is green/white. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    Mid, thanks for the heads up on the fuel line for dual exhaust. My car has it in the center and it is a single exhaust Mach1. I will be changing to dual exhaust so I'm always interested in knowing the changes between the two. I was surprised to find out that the passenger side rear leaf spring shackles are different for a dual exhaust car (among other hanger brackets and things). Apparently the shackles are only available through Eaton Springs, as he had them specially tooled.

    Wow.  Another reason why I can't really understand what are the reasons for the variances...I prefer to restore customer's wiring so I know it is appropriate to their vehicle.  Otherwise, it is simply a crap shoot and I don't like that at all!  Now it is even more of a crapshoot!

    Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  14. Posted · Report reply

    There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess.  One variant is specific with dual exhaust.  I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them.  Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off.

    Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    The constant voltage regulator can be adjusted but it affects the fuel, oil, and temperature gauges.  On the back of the CVR is either a small post or screw, often potted in epoxy.  Turning it one way or another changes all 3 gauges at the same time.  My preference is to ensure I have a 1/4 tank of gas, and set the CVR so that the fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank exactly.  Both the oil and water gauges are "indicator gauges", in that once you determine where normal is, once they deviate from that position, then something is amiss.  They are not precision instruments.

    smh00n reacted to this
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