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Posts posted by Midlife

  1. If you have no voltage to center two clips (BATT) on the bottom of the fuse box, the most probable cause is that the wire going to the back side of the fuse box has broken off.  I see this about 10-15% of the time.  Disconnect the battery, remove the fuse box and inspect the two large wires where they attach to the center taps of the fuse clips on the back side of the fuse box. 

  2. One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.

    What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty.  From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.

  3. You'd be better off buying the best completed car you can find given you don't have the tools/equipment to do a full restoration.  Let someone else eat the costs of restoration that almost always is never recovered when the car is sold.

    The amount of funds you'll be spending to outfit a dynacorn chassis will be north of $20k.  Even so, it will not be a genuine Ford product that's 50+ years old.  A good refurbished fastback can be found (with time...) for less than the cost of the new chassis and outfitting. 

  4. A customer sent in a 69 non-tach headlight harness for refurbishment, but it was too far gone for me to repair.  The main power lines to/from the starter solenoid and alternator didn't look right to me, as the alternator line should go down into the harness quite a ways, and then gets spliced back into the main power feed.  This is the point where one of the ammeter lines gets its signal (yellow wire).  Instead, the yellow wire only was spliced into the main power feed, and the alternator line looped back and was spliced into the main power feed before going to the starter solenoid.

    Whoever designed this created an epic failure of the ammeter, which now can only read discharge and never any charging.  (Not that they were all that functional anyway, but still...)

    I do not know if this was an AMP harness or someone else who fabricated 69 headlight harnesses.  The next time I get a true AMP harness in, I'll tear it apart and see if they have this bad design or not.

  5. My experience is that the fuel line does exit the wire loom well beyond the courtesy light wire break-out.  AMP may have screwed up, but functionally, it will work just fine.

    The 69/70 tails are a mess when it comes to variants of the fuel sending line.  One has a bullet plug with extension, another has no bullet plug, and a third has a shorter section of the wire past the grommet to the 90* connector.  The first two exit the trunk at the RH drop-off panel; the shorter version uses a hole immediately behind the tank and generally centered. 

    With all these variants, I almost refuse to sell a tail outright without knowing what the owner actually has. 

  6. 2 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:

    The mercury switch is built into the socket.


    I guess I was wrong, it's not in every harness. :) 

    And it isn't found in any standard 70 harness that I am aware of; there's no connector for it in the underdash harness.  I believe you had to order a convenience package or something similar to get that line.

  7. No tips.  I'm surprised it doesn't come with sockets.  Rear lamp sockets are a bitch due to corrosion.  I've found a dremel tool in a standard drill bit does wonders for cleaning up the inside of the socket, as well as re-crimping the ground leads.  There's no way to hide the splices, whatever you do...

    I hate tail-light harnesses for refurbishment for this very reason.  Plus, 69/70 have at least 3 different variants of fuel line configurations.

  8. If you are not using the old circuit card, then this connector is pretty much useless.  The wires going into it will form many of the wires needed to wire the aftermarket gauges, along with many others.  What ever wires are left over, please protect them from shorting against any metal.


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