Total Control Products

Sorry for the even later reply. Gosh, I guess I've been absent longer than I though. RE the tower brace design. Ours are adjustable so you can get them on easily and pull the car back into shape. It's okay that they had rod-ends instead of a welded end point because they are loaded in tension and compression. The benefits of various tower braces, including ours, were discussed at length and modelled over on Corner Carvers years back. If anyone feels the need to do some reading, here's the link: It's pretty interesting reading. RE running exhaust with TCP suspension. The RPSS pushrod is the most difficult, but it's also the most aggressive suspension we currently offer for a car with stock floor. It's possible to run pipes over the top, as already stated. On the g-Bar and g-Link, you can go over the top of the housing OR under the housing. There are two rear anti-roll bars that are offered. This is pretty much what decides how you run it. If you have the sliding-link, adjustable ARB, then it has to go under. If you get the splined billet ABR, then it can over the top. Here's a pic of Peter's '68.

Hey guys, I was poking around and came across this thread. I hope you don't mind if I throw my two cents in. I recently addressed a similiar question over on VMF, so this is essentially a copy paste of my response there. It is impossible to completely remove bump-steer from ANY suspension system that has a reasonable amount of travel. It's a math issue. Bump steer is essentially a math error that changes the toe-in setting on your alignment while you're driving. If you were to run the suspension through it's travel and note the changes in toe you could make a graph. Usually it's most pronounced at full compression and/or extension. It can be exacerbated by running a Granada spindle which has the wrong steering arm entirely. By changing the tie rod mounting points, height, and angles you can reduce or move the curve. Typically you would move it to where the most pronounced change is at a point in the travel that the suspension rarely sees. We use an adjustable tie-rod end to fine tune it even further. The adjuster uses a series of shims, as thin as 0.031"! Every little bit makes a difference. Our suspension and rack have modified geometry which greatly reduces the amount of bump steer so usually we only prescribe the adjuster for very aggressive cars. The Pro-Motorsports kit is a "Corrector" unit. A corrector assumes a certain suspension setup, ride height, tire width, and tire diameter. If your suspension is the same as the one the designer used, it's going to help a lot. If it's different, it may still help a little. Bump steer is an equation. All the numbers are important. Also, you will need to drill out the tie-rod taper on your spindle's steering arm to install the supplied hardware. That said, adjustable tie-rod ends/bump steer adjusters, like ours, are not something you can typically just bolt on. You MUST chart/graph the bump-steer curve. If you can't do it yourself, you need to take it to a qualified alignment shop. Les Schwab can't do it, you need to find a race tuner. The pic below is our bumpsteer kit. If you decide to make your own, make sure that it has AT LEAST a 5/8" shank rod end and that it's a good quality, US made piece. EDIT: I had never read that the 'negative wedge kit' would reduce bump steer until about 30 seconds ago. This is a fallacy. All it does is adjust the balljoint angle in the upper arm so they don't bind at compression. That's a good thing, our arms have this built in. However, it has ZERO effect on bump-steer characteristics. Adding the Shelby drop helps a little but, again, this is an equation. Respectfully, no. Sort of. What this person was referring to pertains to cars with front-steer spindles and it is close but not quite there. Since this is a Mustang forum and Mustangs are, mostly, rear steer that wouldn't apply. I don't want to completely monopolize this thread so let's leave that for another discussion. One big reason for the difference in tie-rod location front-vs-rear steer is a pesky little thing called Ackerman angle. (Ackerman figured this stuff out in the 19th century so his horse and buggy would turn better. Without a computer! ) A great source of info about how various suspensions work is to go on Amazon and pre-order THIS BOOK By Mark Savitske. He just updated it and the new version is out now. Or you can get the original which has been around for several years. It's written so that a regular guy, like me, can understand some very complex concepts. If you want to go deeper, pick up the Carrol Smith books or Herb Adams' book.

Hi Frode, I haven't been on this forum in a while and was checking out your thread. I'm glad to see it's still coming along. I tired to send you a PM but it looks like your inbox is full. I want to comment on this photo: The piece of hardware that attaches the truss braces to the monte carlo bar is correct but you should bolt the rod ends on the bottom. That will give them a more direct, flat line of tension/compression so it will be stronger. Like this.

One of our customers, Bob Guido, has done drag week the last two years in his '69 coupe. He lives in Canada and drives down. In 2013 he hit the wall but still finished, then rebuilt the entire car. Last year he had an engine issue and had to trailer home right after the event ended. You can read about the rebuild and see more pics here:

I thought some people on the forum might find this video interesting. Jason Lewis of AUTOedit Restorations initially made a small name for himself as the guy behind the Viper-powered Maverick and, later, the Formula Drift semi-truck video. We met him back in 2007 when he needed front suspension for that project. Jason's latest project is a '73 Mustang coupe which he affectionately refers to as 'Large Marge.' He called me a couple weeks ago and we went over some options for the car. He just sent us a link to this video he put together of his install. Jason really puts together a great video; he keeps it interesting and can get technical without going super geeky. Anyway, check out the video below and be sure to check out some of the other awesome videos on his YouTube channel HERE. I was going to embed but couldn't find the correct BB code that works for this forum.

I'm glad to see you are still working away, Frode.

Our rack is three turns lock to lock. Actually, it's 2.9 if I recall correctly. We cut the internal shaft using our EDM and we make the pinion gear too.

Wow, thanks for the glowing review! I haven't been on this forum much lately so it's always a pleasant surprise to find nice things about us close to the top. For anyone who has questions about any of our systems, we have a huge technical library HERE with instructions, application charts, and technical data sheets. To read details about our rack and pinion steering systems, Click Here.

I honestly don't know. I don't have a 69 or 70 style body here to throw a tape under. Even then, all these cars are slightly different and we always recommend measuring the car in question. Our minitub, like pretty much all of them, is 2" deeper than stock. You don't necessarily have to notch the frame rail, you would just have a little bit of a step between the tub and the rail.

Frode, Keep in mind that if you modify the wheel tub you CAN NOT change the frame rail where the suspension cradle mounts. We had one customer mini-tub his car and when he went to put the suspension back in he discovered there wasn't anywhere to mount it anymore.

Yes, that's correct. Stock wheel to wheel on the early car is 57-1/4". 67-70 is 59-1/4". The leaf spring centers are the same at 43".

This is why the tie-rod adapters include a pair of nylon lock nuts. Also handy when the stock tie-rod studs are over long and rub on the boots. It seems like all the manufacturers have differing ideas on how long they should be. You can grind the tip off for clearance and install the lock nut. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/instructions/7903-TIER-02.pdf :001_cool:

I can't give you an exact date right now, but it should be less than a year. Hopefully much sooner. Right now I can sell them for the same price as the Camaro kit. Once we're done with the first car, the pricing is going to go up because the Mustangs are going to be WAY more work for us to engineer and include WAY WAY more chassis components. Installation involves cutting out the entire floor and removing the front clip. I can't release much more than that yet. Here's a quick break down on what the Canted 4-link style chassis Contains: Welded A-Arm & 4Link Frame, Engine and Transmission Mounts, Inner Rocker Panels, 6-Point Roll Bar, Seat Platform Tunnel Transition, Complete Floor with Transmission & Driveshaft Tunnels, Wheel Tubs & Package Tray Bulkhead, g-Machine Billet Upright Front Suspension, Canted 4-Link Suspension, Splined Antiroll Bars, Varishock Double Adjustable Coil-Overs, Springs & Billet Shock Mounts. - $17,879 as of 11/25/13 Some options include a factory welded FAB9â„¢ housing with standard or floating axles; three different brake options (up to 15" rotors); stainless fuel tank or racing cell; roll bar material, diameter, hardware, configuration changes; 4-way adjustable Remote Reservoir shocks; and some way cool parts that I will not put in writing yet.

Good job! I'm glad you were able to get the exhaust through in the end. They originally purchased suspension through us. Eventually we discovered that they were making their own stuff mostly because we had people calling with weird tech questions and issues.

Then it should exceed your expectations! Give us a call and we can go over any questions you might have. My extension is 247. I don't want to clog up Frode's thread.

We are hard at work right now, it just depends on how in depth you want to go into the car. The Street Machine crossmember you could have within a couple weeks. Just tell us what you want the hub width to be, 30 or 33 inches for power rack, and we'll put together whatever options you want. If you want to go more aggressive, then the next step is the full chassis that we're developing. The rear is already done, here's a pic from SEMA. You can find more pics on STANGTV.COM HERE. Here's a pic of our head of engineering scanning the front of the car last week. In the end, the interior and rear floor area will look similar to the chassis we offer for the Camaro. The benefit of a chassis like this is you can get the car to sit low (airbag low but still using coilovers) without losing headroom. Until now, no one built a chassis like this. The issue with traditional full frame conversions is they are an exercise in compromise. There is only such much vertical room to work with so the car will either sit high with proper travel, sit low with little travel, or you raise the floor and have no headroom.

It works awesome! We have customers running it on daily drivers, pro-tourers, track day guys, and I have one customer who (with some chassis stiffening) is running 8.50s at the drag strip.

Frode, I want to clarify something. I understand that the picture above is not your car. Do your components (frame, watts link, torque arm) look exactly like that? The picture above is not TCP suspension. It is a knockoff made by Unique Performance.

Our test cars had 3" exhaust running from the headers back to just before the housing. There should have been plenty of space. Weird. Getting the exhaust over the housing is fairly easy; getting it out the back is where it gets tricky. You can do it, but you better be good with a tube bender.

Hey guys, just came across this thread today while checking on one of our customer's builds. It's nice to see so much good feedback on our rack systems! I'm not going to clog this thread with endless propaganda so here's a few quick points. -Our rack will work with almost any header. The only header we know to not fit is the Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4" long tube. -Our rack has the same amount of travel as the stock steering, 6-3/8". -Built completely in house, we even cut our own gears. -Includes all the requisite steering shafts, u-joints, mounts, and hardware. -Works with stock inner and outer tie-rods. CLICK HERE to download a detailed Data Sheet on our rack system. We put a lot of effort into our document library so everyone can learn about or products. When faced with a lack of info when we are looking to buy something most of our minds automatically assume the best. We don't want you to assume; we want you to read!

What's your timeline like? We have some new stuff up our sleeves. :D If you're in a fairly big hurry, we have had quite a few Mustang customers use our Chassisworks Street Machine front crossmember. Similar installation to the M-II setups but you aren't stuck with leftover 60s parts and geometry. It's all brand new parts designed in Pro-E and manufactured at our Sacramento factory. It has virtually no bumpsteer in 6†of suspension travel and which enables predictable handling regardless of the vehicle’s changing pitch or roll state. Also, our proprietary g-Machine spindles are taller than OEM spindles and therefore increase camber gain during body roll, keeping tires in better contact with the road surface.

Great to see you making progress!

Looking through your Flickr I was thinking about some before, during, after pictures. Kind of like I did with Brandon's yellow '67. Your car was beautiful before 'all the evil' and I'm sure it's going to be once again. Shoot me an email and we can go into more detail.

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Frode! Glad to see you're making progress on the car. I joined this site so I can keep track of your progress. (Just kidding.) When are you going to let me put pictures of the rebuild on our Facebook page? ~Carl