69RestoRod

Nope. They look good as is as still gives you some meat on the sidewall like a muscle car needs.

Here's some pics of the back of the vents. Total of three phillips head screws. Loosen them and twist the housing is what it looks like. I've got the dash off and hanging on a wall at the moment so I can get another shot if needed

Maybe the reinforcements under the floor pan moves the position of the transmission, lifting the motor up a bit making the shorter mounts mandatory. I'm curious what the reason is for vert only mounts

Item ended but is not listed as sold. Willing to bet the high bidder contacted the owner off Ebay and made an offer saving the seller the fees. Always worth contacting the buyer yourself if still interested

It's black from the factory

Nice box. I don't think that came out right..... Nice to see a painter who realizes flames and fire are three dimensional.

Any part numbers on the A/C brackets? Might be worth asking in a concours forum

Sad but not ghastly. Guys dealing with rust would beg for that little about of damage. 69's do collapse the same way though. Had a buddy rear end a Isuzu truck with his 69 Grande, on the way home from a funeral to insult to injury.

The side of the Twister sure looks cluttered with the stripe, the mustang badge and the rocker panel trim.

Get at Marti report. http://www.martiauto.com/index.html. If you're lucky on the passenger side of the radiator support there may be the buck tag. About the size of a credit card held in by a screw on the outside of the support. Has a lot of the same info as the door tag.

Pulling the distributor makes it a little easier but it can be done with it in place. It can lead to throwing the timing off and worst case the dreaded oil pump shaft coming lose then dropping back into the oil pan. Found out the hard way not everyone puts the shaft retainer back in place on previous engine work. Put rags in the intake ports on the heads while you clean the gaskets so nothing falls into the engine. When you pull the rags out little bits of garbage will come back with them. On the front and rear of the intake don;t bother with the cork gasket just use silicone sealant. About 1/4" high, two good passes is usually enough. The cork has a tendency to push out

Here's a site with the Ausstralian heads http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/images/v8aussie302head.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/v8gallery.html&usg=__KhTMSW4wjrq6Y6qt09NrcoG0Sdo=&h=977&w=837&sz=78&hl=en&start=1&sig2=J_LkC0qEu2bWqLBd57gwww&um=1&tbnid=CXPg-qppP719XM:&tbnh=149&tbnw=128&prev=/images%3Fq%3Daustralian%2Bcleveland%2Bheads%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1&ei=H29GSrmUIZi-M6CmlKcB

Black was the original color and makes it look more like trim rather than something attempting to blend into the body color. I vote for black

Pan can be replaced without removing too much. Drop the starter and cross member. The four bolts on each side of the curved section of the pan are 1/2 and the rest are 7/16. Clean the heck out of the mating surface with a razor and follow up by wiping it down with brake cleaner or laquer thinner until you rag stops wiping off grime.Use a dab of silicone on each edge of the front and rear rubber gaskets, and use the 7/16 bolts in a few places to hold the cork gasket in place. A very thin coat of silicone on each side of the cork doesn't hurt but you don't much of a second chance once it starts to cure.

Saw a speed shop ad for these guys in the July Car Craft and it was showing a drive setup similar to the one cphsonic has. Website isn't fully up but the crank, waterpump, alt drive setup was shown for $279. Always worth a phone call to inquire http://www.millerspeed.com/welcome.html

When reassembling the dash get each screw started but don't tighten any down until they are all in. The J clips they screw into had some movement in them to adjust the pad. The movement is slight but enough to make you crazy.

Ah, last of the V-8 Interceptors. Be a shame to blow her up.

Is this for a strict race car diet or is this for a street car?

The manufacturer would also be good to include, if known, because several dealers may buy from the same supplier.

I've heard that removing the plastic shield behind the headlight bucket and using some long 1/4 extensions it can be done. This was from a painter who didn't want to take the car apart to install this one piece. If that won't work the fender may need to come off.

You did use Type F fluid right? I know can be a dumb question but always worth checking the simple stuff

A bigger crank pulley would slow everything down, rather that changing the pulley's on each accessory. Looks like they've come down in price a bit. The 351W kist lloks to be a bit over $500 at Jegs. When they first came out I recall them being closer to 1K per set. Look for what's causing your belts to get thrown. Need an idler pulley for a long belt, are the pulleys offset? Do the depth of the pulleys match each other? The alternator could be an over the counter piece with a pulley meant for another model.

351W or 351C? For fewer headaches I think March would have a complete kit but bring your checkbook and one testicle. http://www.marchperf.com/styletrack_ford_sb.html May want to put an a/c delete pulley in place of the compressor if you want to install ac/ in the future. If you're gonna shell out that kind of dough you only want to do it once.

Even with your plugs out you can't turn it by hand? Not sure I'm understanding but I think you're saying you cant get the engine to crank to start up, or are you trying to install the rockers and set the nuts?

Take a look at the link Jmlay posted, it shows where the mounting points are lower for a small block mount. Could always weld yours up and redrill them. But it doesn't give exact specs. Personally I'd sell the FE mounts and buy the repops.