69RestoRod

Looks like it would be a 3/8 coarse thread as long as the depth of the pump is. I think the bolt to the right is the same as the one you're looking for.

What are you after? I can send you scans of my 69 Factory wiring diagrams from my 69 Ford shop manual. They have the color codes listed in the footnotes, but the only colored wiring diagram I've seen was one I made years ago with colored pencils. It's now lost to the ages. No money required just looking to help out.

Here's a ropop version with speaker pods for a visual. Just do a google search for 69 mustang package tray. I bought some bulk automotive carpeting and it worked out nicely, until I tore the car apart. http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-71479266536878_1978_1296628

The safety switch plug is a four terminal connector coming from the firewall next to the master cylinder. Two ports are male and two are female. This plugs connects to the safety switch that mounts to the shifter on the side of the transmission. I've seen and been told of other cars where the switch goes bad and PO just run a jumper wire on the firewall pigtail to jumper it out. But then again that info applies to automatic transmissions.

The safety switch plug is a four terminal connector coming from the firewall next to the master cylinder. Two ports are male and two are female. This plugs connects to the safety switch that mounts to the shifter on the side of the transmission. I've seen and been told of other cars where the switch goes bad and PO just run a jumper wire on the firewall pigtail to jumper it out. But then again that info applies to automatic transmissions.

Keep up the posts, we coupe owners love watching them even though few mention it. Which reminds me to get off my butt and start my own thread.

Keep up the posts, we coupe owners love watching them even though few mention it. Which reminds me to get off my butt and start my own thread.

Yes they did. D stands for the 70's, 8 for defines the year, E stands for Escort(E was also used for Pintos in the 70s) and B stands for a Body part. I just did a quick google search for Ford casting numbers, figure out what the numbers represented and did a search for 78 Escorts. There are a few on Ebay but none I found had real good shots of the seats, but they look close enough.

Yes they did. D stands for the 70's, 8 for defines the year, E stands for Escort(E was also used for Pintos in the 70s) and B stands for a Body part. I just did a quick google search for Ford casting numbers, figure out what the numbers represented and did a search for 78 Escorts. There are a few on Ebay but none I found had real good shots of the seats, but they look close enough.

Part number decodes for a 78 Ford Escort. Can't find any images to back it up at the moment though. Sure looks like Ford seat tracks

I was cursing myself for deciding to shave the entire engine compartment, until I saw this car. It encourage me to continue with what I had started, but man what a PITA it is. Also I like the radiator support where it goes from red to black so it doesn't fill up the grill with color. I decided with all the work shaving takes that the engine bay should be color to show off the work but hadn't considered what a colored radiator support would do.

Is it up and down movement you need or side to side? The stops BNickel mentions allow up and down control. Bolts on the bottom of the rails in the door and qtr window allow side to side movement. The repop seals may also have poor shape, which after a weekend of adjusting you'll figure out.

Outta your damn mind. Love the Railroad tie lowering block.

To determine if the car has a 9 inch or an 8 inch do the following. Get under the car, no need to jack it up in most cases, and look at the bolts on the front. If you can put a ratchet with a deep well socket on the bottom 2 bolts it's an 8 inch, if you can only put an open end or box wrench on the bottom two bolts it's a 9 inch. The pinion housing is larger on a 9 inch and prevents a ratchet from fitting on those two.

They are on the bottom side of the head lifter valley side. You would need a mirror to see them if the head is still on the block.

Find an artist who's work you like and be willing to give a deposit for him/her to sketch a design. Reason being is it's easier for an artist to interpret your idea through their drawing skills than to retrace something. It will come out much nicer/custom and will have the artist put more passion into it. The freehand tattoos I have is much more a piece of art than a redrawn sketch.