69RestoRod

I ran mine down the passenger side, opened up the antenna grommet a bit and then was able to run into the engine compartment to the battery with no new holes.

Ditto on the other guys' statements. If you need to start the engine before you get a new one(if needed) just need to run a diagonal jumper wire, not sure which way but there's only two choice. That's what my coupe had in place of the switch when I bought it.

I bent up my own back in 00 using over the counter steel lines I later painted. Had less that $50 into the entire setup

Thanks for the heads up. Lots of new stuff on there.

You'll need to use a 1/4 combo wrench to remove the nut on the stud inside the door, you'll have to do it by feel. A ratchet won't fit without removing the glass. Use a flat headed screw driver to remove the rod clips if it still has the original metal ones.

The differences in 2V and 4V heads are in the Cleveland Family. Larger ports on the 351C 4V heads.

For that price buy it and flip it. The block and main caps are what most are looking for. Do a search for completed listings for a Mexican 302. A bare shortblock just sold for nearly $400. Another sold for nearly $700. Paying to get it magnafluxed might get a higher sale price in the end.

I've got my ac box sitting on a shelf in the garage and have a note to try and snap some photos of it tomorrow. Maybe there's something you're not seeing. I wish I could be of better help but it's been a few years since I last took it out.

Midlife over on Stangfix.com fixes and rehabs old harness on the side. Might be worth looking into if you can't find a replacement. Have heard nothing but good things about his work.

Sent you a PM very fat and very dumb I'd love to see more Silver jade photos.

Mix a pint and spray a small part and leave it somewhere in the house you would see it everyday, possibly in sunlight and then decide. Let it grow on you, if you don't like it nothing will grow. I'm having a similar problem with whether or not to go back to Silver Jade. I want the car to be green and that happens to be my car's original color.

Underneath the trunk lip is a good place to find a good spot of the original paint. No one ever paints over that area. I was thinking about Groovy Green when it was mentioned that it looked like a Mopar color.

The shape of the roof around the rear window looks to be a little different. The rear window area is also different for 69 to 70/ Comparing this photo to my coupe it looks like the roof line than blends into the quarter panel is flatter on the 70. http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/attachments/makin-progress/7452d1237994546-1970-mustang-coupe-restoration-progress-img_1504.jpg The roof would fit but it would have some slight differences. Depends on how much of the roof you need. If you don't need the sail panels area around the rear window it'll be a lot easier to blend.

IIRC you'll need new engine mounts and engine mount pads. If it's a manual the parts for the z bar are FE specific. What's the status of the car currently and how are you looking to run it? Drivetrain and whatnot

Yeah the latch is exposed and the passenger side isn't used nearly as often as the driver's. It's pretty easy to remove once the door panel is off. Just 3 rod clips and 3 screws.

http://www.mansfieldmustang.com/

Sounds like the latch is getting hung up. Have you tried lubricating it? Might have to remove it and clean it out with brake cleaner and then relube it. I've washed tons of crap out of a few latches.

That manual would be some money well spent.

You can always support the window in the door and remove the regulator to get a better look at it. 6 or 8 bolts if IRCC. Clamp or bolt it down to your work bench and crank it. Sounds similar to the problem I had with my driver's side one and I replaced it since I was living in an apartment at the time and didn't have a space to work on it. Figure the passenger side one was rarely used compared to the driver's side.

It is a pressed fit. You need the proper plate to hold the axle on your press to remove the bearings. Plate looks like two u shapes that you slide together under the bearing. The work table on the press needs to be low enough that you can get the whole axle in place. Apply pressure at the splined end and it'll come loose

I also had the same problem with a groove in the yoke. Tried the new seal and a speedi ring but didn't get the load set properly and had a howling rearend under load

I completely agree with Opentracker. The castle nut should be sitting up near the hole in the ball joint stud, at least a 1/2" higher. You're going to run into serious problems driving on that.

Like S code said it won't. The roof has a different angle on the sports roof so the door glass is different and the quarter glass is very different from coupe to sportsroof. Look at a picture of a coupe to see it. Tell your buddy he should list his Grande parts in here if he hasn't. Always someone looking for something that not reproduced.

I like the 70's just a bit more, looks cleaner to me. I'd bet it was a cost saving measure.

I bought a repop set years back from Mustangs unlimited and they were decent. IIRC the rivets weren't the same but the function was fine. I'll see if I can dig them up for a comparison picture. The new springs needed to be trimmed a bit to be installed but other than that I was satisfied.