70vert
Members-
Content Count
385 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Store
Everything posted by 70vert
-
ah, sorry, I didn't mention it and it's not in my sig. I have a TKO600 5-speed manual. I assumed when we were talking 5 speed you would assume it's a manual trans. No issues at all on turns. I like the Torsen style differentials, which is what the TrueTrac is. There were some issues with early TrueTracs and bolts shearing off, but they've pretty much been solved. You shouldn't get any of the locker-style noise with a TrueTrac. Only disadvantage is that if one wheel is up in the air it turns into an open diff until you land. The TrueTrac is a little better for road racing and street use than a locker, which would be better for the drags. Check out CornerCarvers.com for some info on the TrueTrac and other Torsen style diffs, but DON'T post there until you are very confident you are asking a smart question. Very confident. :) I can't say yet how it responds to power, since I was lucky if my tired old 302 was making 150, but it will soon be making more than twice that . . . so I'll let you know. ;)
-
I've got a .64 final gear and 3.25 gears, TrueTrac rear. I can hardly break the tires loose with the original tired 302, but that's out and getting built right now by a local performance shop. Should be 370-400 when it's done. 275/40/17 rear rubber, but I could use stickier tires when I get the power. Battery will be in the trunk and I'll have some weight on those rear tires with a full tank. Might even do one of those tank armor plates to seal off the tank area and/or a rear-seat-to-trunk seal. Weight in the back ain't a bad thing to get a more neutral handling car . . . I don't have a tach so I can't tell you what it's turning at 60-70, but I'm sure I'll get decent mileage with a fuel injected 331 and a .64 final gear and 3.25. I'll try to post full details when everything gets done . . .
-
Mike, I think a 289/302 is appropriate for the '65-66, maybe even '67-68. With our heavier cars, you can get a decent weight distribution with an aluminum head and intake on a 351. I'd take a serious look at these guys: http://www.blueprintengines.com/popular_configurations/index.html?topic=options&pcsci=8 not very custom, but they seem like a very good value for the money. There's also a forged crank/rod/pistons model available from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BPF4080CTC/ but I'm getting my OEM block rebuilt by a local builder.
-
Heh, subscribing. I'll create my own build thread one of these days. Maybe after I get the battery in the trunk, new radiator, and new engine in sometime this year . . . :)
-
Ok, I think I got it - the above was done for a mystery price, and they're quoting $5-7k for body and paint. If there's any rust repair to be done on the body, that might be a fair price. If that's for prep and paint, that better be a gorgeous paint job. I don't fault anybody for paying big $ for a paint job, just make sure you're getting what you pay for and you can see an example of what that kind of $ will get you in the end. I might check out some local car guys' forums on other message boards to make sure you know what else is out there in your area. That way, you can be sure you've weighed all the local options. In the Bay Area, for example, there's a good place in Sacramento that comes up when I search on vintage-mustang.com that a few guys have used that can save you some $. If you feel that the price wasn't fair for the previous work, and you find somewhere else that's a good deal and has references, you can always take it there and let them know where you're going in a no-hard-feelings kind of way. They might take some $ off on the spot or at least they'll know that they've got some competition . . .
-
Muletman, if you feel that these guys are gouging, you can always tell them you'd rather just go with a Dynacorn body if the costs get too high. Assuming you have room to work, you would get the satisfaction of basically moving all your parts over onto a new body. Then sell your old shell to some body guy who will rescue it on his own time, or use it as a project to learn welding and bodywork yourself. :001_cool: At the very least it might get them to revise their estimate - if $16k gets you a new shell to hang parts on, (and you still have your old shell as a project) and they want your business they might cut you a deal. I've seen car shows where, faced with that kind of work on a Camaro, they just went the Dynacorn route.
-
To give you a rough idea from a very well regarded local Bay Area shop, but one that possibly has Shelby guys in mind when setting their pricing: (based on a car that was driven to them with one seat in and no carpet) -Floor pan replacement, or rather, keeping the trans tunnel and welding everything else in -Rocker panel repair with parts from a full convertible rocker panel -Firewall repair and rear seat floor repair -Cosmetic cowl rust repair -Seat platform replacement While you're doing all this, you might consider putting in the convertible reinforcements under the seat and a subframe connector like the Tin Man one that goes through that convertible reinforcement and can be welded to it. It made a huge improvement in my convertible's stiffness, partially due to the fact that there's a huge "T" in the middle linking front and rear frame rails with both rocker panels with a much better structure. Makes a "X" crossflow exhaust a pain, though.
-
Hey all, This could end up being a great bang-for-the-buck system, if you're willing to move the battery to the trunk, or it could just barely not work - I already own the fan and radiator, a Summit/Northern 380463 radiator and Flex-a-Lite FLX-210 dual low-profile puller 2500cfm fan. The shroud just about fits the core perfectly, at least if you cut loose the rubber gasket on the outer edge and push it inward a bit. This is going to be really interesting, and it's going to be a total shoehorn fit if it fits. If it fits, (I'm doing this in a month or so) it could be a real nice setup for the '69-70. I took some measurements in the garage just now and here's how it stands: (current radiator is in, and I haven't done the box mock up yet) -Frame rails are 27.5" inside frame rail to inside frame rail -The distance between the flat part of both reservoirs on either side is just shy of 27", therefore: -The reservoirs will sit on the frame rails, or on a thin rubber pad on the frame rails. -My filler neck is canted off diagonally on the driver's side as per this photo, and the distance from the bottom of the reservoir to the topmost part of the neck is 19.25": -I can use a cheap flat steel radiator cap that will add a few mm to this upper corner. -It looks like the '70 hood has a nice thin indentation at the corner of the filler neck, or I can dab some grease on the neck after it's in and see where it touches the hood and cut a hole if it's part of the hood structure and not the hood surface. -I set up a tape measure and, eyeballing 19.25" at the frame rail, I closed the hood and felt it just touch slightly and push the tape measure down when the hood closed. This is gonna be interesting . . . I'm not totally adverse to notching the frame rails there, but moving the filler neck seems like the smart thing to do if need be. I'm using this Summit/Flex-a-Lite matchup to avoid the horrendous cost of, say, a Be Cool kit. I want a low profile dual fan pulling serious CFM and the Flex-a-Lite 210 looks to be the ticket.
-
I've always dreamt of identical twins in my be . . . . uh, I mean, garage. :tongue_smilie:
-
I'm looking at the Hedman 88300 headers for my 408 stroker. They're one of the only one that is supposed to fit w/o problems with the Steeroids rack - that's my main consideration. I have a few photos from 68EFIvert on stangnet that show them fitting with his 302 and Steeroids, and with the 351w being an inch taller and wider he confirms that there should be clearance. There's always a surprise, but we'll see. I can tell you, oh, sometime this winter/spring when the engine is ready? I think they can flow enough for a 302 but the 408 could be restricted a bit. They weren't expensive and they might just serve as a jumping off point or a first try and I can see what other similar header styles might work. At that point, I might be asking "what headers are shaped exactly like the 88300 but with bigger primaries and/or collectors?"
-
Complete shock tower apron replacement
70vert replied to cmrmach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I always mention this when someone is doing a shock tower replacement - if you're more concerned with chassis rigidity and shock tower durability in the future, think about the Pro Motorsports reinforcement kit. I plan to do mine when my 408 is done: https://www.drgas.net/category.php?cid=31&catid=4 -
I have to find my Marti, it's probably 17 years old now, but I have had the car for 18 years now, and it was a 76B Deluxe convertible and the woodgrain in the dash and the door inserts has all the signs of being original. Only 1,600 or so deluxe convertibles made in '70. I think mine was intended to be a cruiser - originally Light Ivy Yellow (very hard to find a pic of that), ginger interior, 302, C-4. Maybe originally a girl's car or a pimp ride? :rolleyes:
-
I have woodgrain on my deluxe interior (verified, I got the Marti report 17 years ago) on doors and instrument bezel and the surface where the clock would normally reside. But, much to my disappointment, no clock. I have dreams where a busty German beer maiden shows up with a frosty one and a tach dash with clock. And then I wake up. :biggrin:
-
try the Concours forum on forums.vintage-mustang.com. I think that's the richest forum on the web for concours-correct/originality questions.
-
Once more into the breach - narrower rear?
70vert replied to 70vert's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
OK, here is the result - it is as tucked in there as it could be. Bump stop had to be ground down, inner fenderwells flattened slightly. With a wheel spacer, I could go to a wider tire. This is about as tight as it gets . . . -
408w-AL, Mass-Flo EFI ordered from TandL
70vert replied to 70vert's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
That's a beautiful car you've got there, and I like the attention to detail both in your photos and in the car - just went through the site. How does that monster hook up on the street? Any chassis twist from all the torque? Not knowing the exact specs does detract a little from the bragging rights and the bench racing aspects, and there's a lot of fun in knowing exactly which parts contribute to exactly which performance improvements. I'll get that when I build up my original 302 after all this is done. Where that 302 ends up is anybody's guess. :shifty: Maybe I'll win the lottery and buy a Factory Five '33 Hot Rod or build up another car way down the road, but I'll be in no hurry and don't have the space for another car in the city anyway. I can understand not revealing all your secrets, though - working for Apple, I can totally understand it. A magician doesn't tell you everything, the chef doesn't tell you everything, and if they have some proprietary secret sauce that makes their engines better, so be it. I've got a year warranty and if it blows up and I haven't been driving it at the absolute limit, it'll be all over 3 mustang forums online. :cursing: But I don't think I'll be pushing the limits , and the components could probably handle 2x the power. -
408w-AL, Mass-Flo EFI ordered from TandL
70vert replied to 70vert's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I asked for a build sheet but just got their generic one. I imagine it's their "custom grind cam shaft". They seem to hold their cards pretty close to their chest. -
408w-AL, Mass-Flo EFI ordered from TandL
70vert replied to 70vert's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
since I'm going with a little lower compression, it'll be 4.125 bore x 3.75 stroke, so it should rev a little better than the 408. I'll be able to use 87 octane gas and then do a power adder if I go nuts with it. :tongue_smilie: I'm still going to call it a 408, though, 'cause 400 sounds . . . boring. Like the 400M or the Pontiac 400, not really inspiring engines to most. -
Hey all, Finally bit the bullet and got my dream engine ordered from TandL / T&L. Well, my crazy-but-not-insane dream engine. Dream engine would probably be a Roush 402IR-AL. I don't have the build sheet yet, just a build sheet from an original quote over a year ago, but they estimate about 500-525 with 9.0-9.5 compression to run lower octane gas for now and do a power adder if I ever go crazy later. I have been impressed by their customer service in terms of response time to questions and accuracy of answers, and they're smart and well-spoken. They correctly pointed out that the March kit I planned to put on wasn't correct for 351w - the 30385 kit should be correct for 351w with alt, PS, standard rotation water pump. Until I get a build sheet, I only have the older one to go on, but they would use a JE dished piston with 4.125 bore with 3.750 stroke for this. Still need aluminum radiator with dual Spal fan, trunk battery relocation kit, fuel delivery system from Mass-Flo, Hedman 88300 headers, hydraulic clutch kit, (probably, 67efi has me convinced but one other with a cable clutch was able to do it without converting) air cleaner, pro-motorsports shock tower reinforcement kit, and Ron Morris adjustable motor mount. Is Pro-Motorsports still in business, or where can you get their shock tower kit? The site has been down for at least a day. I'll update this thread as things develop. Lead time is at least two months, but I was actually prepared for as long as a year, so I might actually have a beast by next spring! My original 302 will sit in the garage as an engine rebuild project for me to learn a few things . . . or maybe an E-85 conversion? Getting excited. I have everything I need to stop, shift, a 9"/TrueTrac rear, handle, and now I can finally get around to the "go" part of things. :rockon:
-
White seats and pockets for a gel inserts from your freezer, :lol: You could even have a cooler mounted with DC power or through an inverter. Sounds like something out of My Name is Earl, but it could work. :whistling:
-
I didn't have to massage the tunnel at all with my Modern Driveline/TKO600 kit. I'll have to get you my driveline angle (car is away getting the new rear installed) but I have had no issues with vibration at all and no problems at all with my ancient, original 8" rear pushing 275 rubber back there, albeit from a tired old 302-2bbl. Maybe there's too much angle, and maybe my driveshaft is spinning slower - a 5 speed/.64 OD and a 2.79 rear - but it. just. works.
-
I did the EvM 3-link and love it. If you're in the SF Bay Area I'll give you a ride . . .
-
Instrument Cluster Lights - help needed
70vert replied to foothilltom's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
rofl spitting-out-my-milk. I didn't have the James Bond style buzzsaw spinners on my wheels as a factory option (it wasn't part of the 76B deluxe convertible option kit) so I had to obtain them from Coy's Wheel. Ask them for the C-67, but you have to call for the telescoping buzzsaw extensions, and tell 'em I sent you. They'll tear up the guy nex to you like this: :taz: -
Instrument Cluster Lights - help needed
70vert replied to foothilltom's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Not to hijack the hijack ;-) but does anybody know if these are made, or something like it, for the '69-70? What I'm looking for is: http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=mustanginformation 1. Original green glow, but brighter (I want the interior to look stock with very subtle improvements 2. Tach somewhere in the two main round instrument clusters 3. Other gauges (oil press, ammeter) could be on that little Shelby-style front-of-console pod, that would still look period-correct. -
'70 drum spindles FS, freshly painted, $175+ship, $150 local cas
70vert replied to 70vert's topic in Parts for Sale / Wanted
SOLD to Cobra Automotive for $150 - just putting it up here so the next seller/buyer has a guideline.