Tgriffin91

Hi all. I have driven my cat roughly 600 miles and my car can no longer shift to reverse. It started about a day ago when I had to give it a little gas to get it to shift into gear and now it won't go at all. All the other gears appear to work. I was reading it could be vacuum issues or a sprag gear? Replaced the fluid and that didn't help. It is an automatic c4. Thanks for the help!

You mean moving faster than ALL other builds. The rest of everyone is into year two at the very least! Good work and I think most of us are jealous of your son. 89 toyota corolla just doesn't compare.

I checked the wires and they look alright. Like I said they are not my favorite ones. Currently I have the 8mm accel wires. I ordered a pertonix module to get rid of my points. I've been waiting to get one a while now and finally found one on sale. Hoping that will help with the issues. What wires would you guys recommend for replacements?

Hi Bob, I would be interested in the mounting hardware for the bottom section of front trim.IF non-AC and available, what condition is the heater box in? Could also use misc pieces such as door lock pins, clock delete panel, and radio. Let me know if any of these are available. Thanks,

Ok that makes sense. Thank you for the clarification. I will check them out. I did adjust the carb so it is opening all the way at running temp. Thank you for the suggestions.

Forgive my lack of knowledge. Pull them and inspect, or pull them with the car running? Plug wires seem fairly new, but to be honest I do not like them much so that could be the problem.

Title basically says it all. I have a stock 302 C-4 combo. When I first start the car up everything is smooth and runs great but after it gets up to running temperature it sounds like one cylinder begins to miss. I checked the spark plugs yesterday and they look good. I checked the points gap and that looked ok too. The rotor cap looked like it was only hitting the front edge, which would indicate timing? I played with that a bit adjusting it a few degrees up and down (missing my timing indicator) and that didn't help. I'm thinking at this point it may be bad points? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! -Thomas

Yes. If you have a flat tire they give you 24hr notice and then tow your car. Very strict on "non-operational" vehicles. I figured if it looked a bit more uniform they might not tow it or stick a million of those notice stickers on my windows. Ha. You can't work on your car either :( But we only signed a 6month lease to get to know the area. Already told my girlfriend I'll be spending the next 5 months in the walmart parking lot working on my car. :P She still thinks I am kidding. Moving to Savannah, GA.

Finally got things going on the car. Gave it a quick coat of paint. Apartments I am moving to are strict on appearance.

Got the battery tested today and it tested all good. Next I'll look into grounds and make sure those are tight.

This could be it. From cranking the car when I was still having electrical issues. I'll get it tested sometime soon and let you all know. Sparked quite the debate. Just FYI this battery has not sat on a concrete floor for more than a day at a time.

Hi all. I finally have the mustang running and almost back on the road. Just one issue. When I go to start it I get the dead battery grind sound. I checked the battery several times and it reads 12.2V. As soon as I hook it up to my truck for a jump it goes to 14V and fires right up. Why isn't 12V enough to start my car? Any ideas? Engine is a standard 302 transmission is C4 both original to car.

Yay! I wish I was closer! You will definitely see an order from me in the near future.

Definitely will get one at that price!

I will buy one. Might take me a bit though as I am moving in the next month.

I received the harness back in just a few days. Thank you again Midlife! I plugged her in yesterday and she fired right up!! Yay! Somehow though when I had removed it last time I think I lost something. It seems I am missing the wiper switch plug! I'll look around for it more later today. After that everything should be good to go on it.

Ok I should be able to pull it out this weekend. Im not worried about shipping costs but thank you.

New solenoid put on and still nothing. It looks like I have a short somewhere. I determined this after I saw the solenoid starting to smoke. Probably have to get another one now. I just don't understand what would have changed outside of the under dash harness as it ran before taking the harness out.

I checked the continuity yesterday before removing the wires to the starter solenoid and was only getting continuty to the START circuit wire not the RUN circuit. Nonetheless I removed the connections at the starter solenoid and continuity was no longer there. I will go buy a new one today and throw it on and see if that fixes the issue. Randy, Thank you for all your help.

See attached. Red arrow indicates continuity.

Sorry whejn I had the picture up on my computer I had rotated it and didn't realize how it had posted. I just checked again for the third time and now I am getting continuity as Ok from both the middle far left and the bottom connects. From your last post it sounds like this is ok?

Checked continuity last night. From the ignition coil wire to outside male plug was good on the engine harness. I got continuity between the outside female plug and the top right terminal in the picture. It is the red wire with large blue stripe. This leads me to believe it is the ignition. But I would assume it would give no voltage if it was bad. Currently I am only getting no voltage when in the run position. Is that correct? From my electrical manual it appears correct but I am unsure. Where do I go from here? I appreciate the help!

Mach1Rider, Thank you! I should have thought of that! Like I said I am fairly clueless when it comes to wiring. I'll get those checked when I get home and post results.

All, Thank you for your comments and suggestions. I took a break due to frustration as well as busy work and home Life. I got back to the mustang today and still no Voltage in the run position. I took the lead in the distributor off cleaned it and put it back on. Still nothing. I tried cleaning the pins in the ignition switch and nothing. I tried unplugging it and plugging it in also. No luck. It looks like I am running out of options. Can anyone give me More things to test? Should I check continuity through the dash harness?

Drive that home and call it finished... Oh, it doesn't run? ;) Good luck and welcome!