DocWok

Great job on the resto indianfiremach, I installed a streamlined TKO the same as you are doing. Yes, to get the correct transmission angle when using std. engine mounts you will need to notch the cross member brace. I went a step further and cut a 'U' shape slot in the transmission tunnel just above and forward of the cross member brace and lifted it up about 3/8" and filled and in the gap with some sheet metal the same thickness as the tunnel. Worked out alright in the end and blended in nicely. This allowed me to lift the TKO a bit higher again and I was able to achieve a 3 degree transmission angle by doing this and still keeping the std. engine mounts. In your case maybe just notching the cross member without raising the tunnel a bit might give you a transmission angle that you are happy with, from memory I think I had 3.75 degrees of angle at that stage. I made my own rear transmission mount out of some 1.75" pipe and some 45 degree elbows. Best of luck with the rest of your build.

Thanks for the posts Buckeye, keep them coming! Great stuff.

From what I read, Barnett468 didn't leave VMF, they barred him. A quick internet search will reveal why, and also list other forums he has been thrown out of.

Well said mwye0627. Agree with your comments 100%

Good on you Dave, great to see some constructive help offered to another member, which solved his problem. Much better than mindless comments (again) from others about aftermarket parts that don't assist anyone much.

Adjusting the steering box is fairly straight forward. The workshop manual will show that you should use special tools to do correctly, however if you want to give it a try yourself without the special tools you'll get the adjustment very close. It can be adjusted mounted in position in the car but it is difficult. It's easier if you disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link and also disconnect the input shaft coupling, remove the box from the car and hold it in a bench vice. You will see a threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver and lock nut on top, loosen the lock nut and back off (anti clock wise) the threaded rod 4 or 5 turns. This will disengage the sector shaft (the one your pitman arm attaches to) mesh from the worm shaft (input shaft). Now undo the big lock nut on the input shaft cap, you can use a hammer and punch to do this. Now back off the cap until you can fell some end play on the input shaft when you pull it back and forth by hand. What you do now is tighten the cap bit by bit until there is no more end play on the input shaft, stop there. Now tighten the adjust cap a little bit more this will preload the bearings, doesn't need much maybe a 1/16th of a turn, hold the cap in that position and tighten the lock nut. Now lightly grip the input shaft with a pair of vice grips, this will allow you to turn the input shaft while you adjust the sector shaft mesh. What you do now is while you turn the input shaft by hand as far as it will go in one direction then stop and wind it back the other way until it stops, you need to keep doing this back and forth while you start screwing the sector shaft threaded rod back in, this will adjust your mesh, at a certain point as your winding the input shaft back and forth and also screwing the threaded rod in you will start to feel the input shaft get a bit of a tight spot at the half way point as you wind it back and forth, you only need to feel it start to drag, hold the threaded rod in position with a screw driver and do up the lock nut, you mesh adjustment is now done. If you screw the threaded rod in to much the input shaft will feel too tight to wind past the center position and if you don't wind the threaded rod in enough you wont feel any drag in the centre position. It might take you a few tries to get the adjustment just right. That's about it, the box is now adjusted good enough and you can reinstall it.

Very interesting, thank you for sharing this with us Ridge, great to see how it is done, step by step.

Yep, those 1000 times smaller molecules may do the trick!

Yes, we are truly blessed to have someone as knowledgeable on so many levels telling us what we need to do.

I have had luck in the past with heating up the area around the fitting then applying a candle to the thread area, the candle melts and the wax flows into the thread, might be worth a try in your situation.

Honestly, I don't know. Haven't come across a Super Turbo set up to compare it too. There are a couple of clips on You Tube to listen too, that may help.

I had the VT mufflers on my car for almost 2 years and the are still operating as designed, no complaints, so far so good. They come with a Limited lifetime warranty, so if something did go wrong with the flapper assembly, Dynomax would replace the muffler.

Hi Kaspar, Have you considered the Dynomax VT mufflers? They are S/S, 14 x 9.75 x 4.5". I used them on my set up, 392 stroker, twin 2.5" system with 'H' cross over, rear exit. They are a straight thru design with a internal flapper valve, quiet at idle and a good sound when you floor it and the valve opens. Plus the important thing, at least on my set up....no droning! I can only pass comment from my own observations on my car and I'm more than happy with them. Plenty of write ups about them on the net if you want more information.

exhaust diameter - if you change the intake and rockers, it must be at least 2 5/8" with low restriction mufflers . . It 'must' be this, you must 'absolutely' use this, 'I' would use this......blah, blah, blah....... Most muffler shops would think you are strange requesting a 2-5/8" exhaust system. Usually it's 2-1/2" or step up to a 3" system. +1 for MikeStang's comments

Hi, I installed a Borgeson set up on my car, I am happy with it. Went in easy, works very well. Added some extra +Castor to the wheel alignment as per Borgeson's instructions. I haven't experience any return to centre issues some others have made comment on.

I had a cyclical vibration once that I was sure was driveline related, in the end it turned out to be the engine cooling fan that was out of balance. Took the fan off and went for a short drive, the car ran smooth as silk. Go figure eh?

I suppose they could have blocked you, that would definitely have improved the forum.

Anybody know why Barnett468 got banned? - Vintage Mustang Forums forums.vintage-mustang.com/.../700409-anybody-know-why-barnett46...[/url] Cached Nov 12, 2013 - 12 posts - ‎9 authors I think it's a loss to this forum so hopefully whomever banned him would ... I seen Barnett tried to make up a few other names and got banned ...

Hi, Great work on your car. I like your D.I.Y attitude for tackling the different tasks on the resto. Your steering came up great, but I'm curious, how did you apply the Di-Noc to the wheel rim without getting wrinkles in it as you curved it around the radius, I'd like to try the same on my wheel and I like the idea of using Di-Noc.

barnett468.....Walter Mitty? LOL

Is this guy for real?

Yet another over long rant from Barnett468

It's refreshing to see the comments from 'RacerX' Somebody that actually does know what they are talking about.

Ford Workshop Manual states: 75-100 ft/lb

Hi juit, Here's a very interesting article from a fellow Mustang owner over on the VMF forum: Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 1,314 Vacuum advance vs mechanical only - Proved it... After years of running MSD dizzy without vacuum advance then going to a Ford dizzys with disconnected vacuum advance because I couldn't get them to run right, I finally brute forced through this one with impressive results. I have always run 36 degrees full mechanical advance from a dyno run on an old motor. I could never get vacuum advances to work on my motor no matter what carb, port or dizzy I tried. A recent thread on a disappointing dyno run got off track on vacuum advance topics. I also recently did a MPG calc and got 10 MPG on an easy run to work and back 75 mi, thats $28 bucks for a round trip. That got me incentivized to finally solve the vacuum advance riddle on my car. I found several articles and posts that told me a trick I did not know; limiting the amount of vacuum advance by using an Allen wrench inserted into the vacuum canister where the vacuum tube inserts. So I opened up an old vacuum canister to see how it worked. The vacuum pulls toward the vacuum tube. If you insert an Allen wrench and "Unscrew" it - it unscrews a large plate toward the vacuum tube connector which limits the amount of travel on the canister. With my Performer RPM flat tappet cam, I get about 10 to 11 inches vacuum which was pulling 20 degrees of advance on a stock cannister when I put the vacuum line on. Car would die an ugly death at idle or run extremely poorly popping and farting if I tried to force it. I started at 15 degrees difference between putting the vacuum tube on and removing it. I found I had to keep dialing back till most of the popping in the mufflers off throttle was gone. It only pops when you drive it and go off throttle. Won't do it in the driveway. I finally dialed it back to around 5 to 7 degrees at idle and the difference was very interesting, changing the personality of the car. Now my throttle response is amazingly quick at any throttle setting EXCEPT wide open throttle (WOT). NOTE: My car is no faster than it was without the vacuum advance hooked up on a floored WOT pull through the gears. But for normal driving, it has a whole new personality - FEELS like it has a lot more horsepower. Actually, it feels like I made a major leverage change on the throttle where I only have to barely touch it now to get the thump I used to have to give 1/4 throttle. The other thing I noticed is that my temp idling through the neighborhood and idling dropped noticeably. All of this is consistent with what the literature told me I would experience. BTW, I hooked it up to direct manifold vacuum as all the articles said to do for anything but a full up smog car from the dark years which used the ported vacuum above the throttle plate. Hope this helps someone else, it only took me 12 years to solve this mystery. I know there is more messing around to do to get things dialed in but its definitely on the right track. Last edited by dobrostang; 06-18-2011 at 11:25 PM.