DocWok
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Posts posted by DocWok
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Thanks Ridge, much appreciated.
That will help, clearest picture I've seen so far.
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I'm looking to make the scoop functional as a cold air intake on my 69.
Have looked at the few pictures on the net, but they are usually taken at an angle so hard to gauge an accurate measurement of the pie-cuts.
Would anyone have a hood with factory cut outs that they could put a tape against the holes to get a clear picture.
It's a long shot I know, but worth to ask just in case I get lucky.
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As aslanefe says the pitman arm is keyed, you can't just rotate it by a spline or two.
Sounds like your problem is that the alignment shop simply did not bother to check that your steering box was centered before doing the alignment.
As you stated you can simply do this yourself by counting how many turns it is lock to lock then turning it to halfway.
You may have to remove your steering wheel and index it again so that it level.
Put some masking tape on your steering wheel boss and the steering column marking the center point and get it realigned by a reputable shop.
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Does anyone know if its possible to fit a 68 fastback rocker molding to a 69 fastback?
I much prefer the thicker look of a 68 molding over the skinny 69 one.
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15 hours ago, bigmal said:Also, I bought a digital protractor yesterday and the drive line angles difference is 3 degrees. So the 4 degree shims I have ordered are too big. I will order some 3 degree shims shortly
In general up to 3 degrees mismatch between driveline angles is tolerable.
Try your wedges to see if its an improvement, but I think it's possible your vibration issue may lay elsewhere.
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Mal,
You could take a measurement across the steel outer lip of your gearbox oil seal, just eyeball it to see if your degree measuring tool is straight up and down and not crooked.
If not enough room, take your tailshaft out, then do your measurement.
With the shaft out its also easier to measure your diff pinion angle, just rotate the yoke until its straight up and down then take your measurement.
If your jacking your car up to get under it make sure it is level, you could put a level on your rocker sill to check.
Support your diff on ramps or jack stands, don't take a reading with it hanging down unsupported.
If as you say you have -5 degrees on your gearbox ideally you'd want a wedge to give you on your diff to give you +5, so that face of the yoke and pinion are parallel to each other.
I'd be chucking a +3 wedge in the diff and giving it a test run.
If you have room I've also seen where Ford used shims between the gearbox mount and gearbox to level things up a bit. Just be sure to double check the clearance between your fan and radiator if you try this.
Good luck.
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You would need both for the system to work correctly.
A filtered air supply from your air cleaner to one valve cover OR a breather fitted to that cover.
On the other valve cover you would need to hook up a PCV with vacuum supplied by either a intake manifold fitting OR a vacuum supply from your carb or carb spacer.
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10 hours ago, RobotMan said:However, I still have a performance issue I need some advice on. The engine hesitates severely and hiccups when you dump the accelerator to speed up quickly but will run smooth if you ease up to the same point gradually. It runs smooth if I maintain the speed even at high RPMs. This just started recently. Thoughts or suggestions?
Sounds like you may have an accelerator pump issue with your carb.
When you look down into the carb you should see 2 solid streams of fuel being injected as soon as you start any movement of the throttle linkage, if not you will need to chase down why it's not operating correctly.
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3 hours ago, 1969Fstback said:When warm adjusting the idle fuel air ratio does little unless you screw them all the way in.
It would seem that something in making your engine run richer as it warms up if you need to screw your idle mixture screws all the way in as it heats up.
This symptom would seem to be the opposite of what a vacuum leak would cause, which would cause it to run lean.
Maybe your carb floats are leaking and as the engine warms the float(s) leaks and sinks, causing the fuel level to rise?
Did the engine have the same issues when you tried a different carb on it?
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Really like your paint color.
Not too light, not too dark, just right.
What shade of Blue is it?
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The fact that the shop did not supply you with the final alignment spec's would suggest they have not set it the spec's you required and have something to hide.
RPM is spot on with his advice.
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On 8/12/2019 at 2:17 AM, foothilltom said:I'll do that right now. Thanks!
And yes, based on my smoke test, the manifold was leaking pretty much from front to back, both sides. Very strange. I can't wait to see what the culprit is.
Update: I could get my smallest gauge through from front to back (.0025). Color me ignorant. I had no idea it could be so "off". I wish I would have been more vigilant about that part of the fit. I was hyper-concerned with the RTV gasket I made in the front and back. Ironically, that didn't leak at all. Just the Felpro gasket side.
The plot thickens.
The observation from the OP that a feeler gauge could be slid along between the the Edelbrock manifold and intake gaskets on the alloy heads while it was correctly torqued in place would suggest the Edelbrock had been machined.
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20 hours ago, foothilltom said:My measurements revealed that the ports on the aluminum heads were "situated higher" off the deck than the cast iron heads (that's where .2" came in). The Performer was never going to cover this gap w/out some kind of serious machining.
Tom
Your original heads had probably been milled by some unknown amount ,certainly not .200" but a substantial amount none the less in the past, for whatever reason (raise the compression, bad machinist, who knows.)
Whatever it was cut, it was much more the a light surfacing and this in turn moves the position the inlet manifold bolt hole inwards , so then the standard Edelbrock manifold bolt holes would no longer line up with the corresponding holes in the heads, and so the manifold would have to be cut as well to allow it to sit lower in the valley to allow the manifold bolt holes line up again.
This would explain the loose fit of the Edelbrock manifold in the valley when you fitted the alloy heads (returning it to stock bolt hole locations) and the Edelbrock now not quite covering the inlet ports of the new heads.
Machining of the original heads would make the inlet ports on the aftermarket head appear to be situated higher from the deck compared to the original milled head.
In my 47 years of working on cars I have seen this a couple of times and it would be easy to see why someone with lesser experience would become confused.
Your on the right track now and I wish you the best of luck with the rest of your build.
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On 8/17/2019 at 2:22 AM, foothilltom said:I'm starting to answer my own questions...maybe that's a sign of growth? I doubt it.
Careful measurement reveals that the tops of the ports of my GT-40 Chi-Clone heads are .2" higher than the cast iron heads. This manifold obviously fit great with stock heads.
So, it seems that my original vacuum leak was probably not a result of poorly installed or poorly chosen gaskets, but a result of myopically installing an intake w/out any regard to its fit with this setup.
Did somebody recommend the Weiand Stealth? I am thinking about calling the manufacturer to see if it accommodates this much taller head port.
Still, your insights are appreciated.
Nobody (except Barnett) ever mentioned that the original heads had been milled .200".
The OP only said that the tops of the ports are .2" higher than the cast iron heads.
The new heads probably have larger inlet ports compared to a standard head.
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More likely the the original heads had been machined sometime in the past and the Edelbrock was milled to match the original heads.
I doubt Weiand machined an oversize manifold and foothilltorn just happened to find it and it solved a non-existant problem with new aftermarket heads.
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barnett468
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"if the gaskets are not the problem, the heads are most likely the problem because it is extremely rare that someone mills down an intake manifold.
You can do a few tests to try and determine exactly what part may be wrong. This will require a protractor which is cheap and a few spacers etc."
I'm glad that you found the problem with the Edelbrock manifold having been milled, it always pays to check this with a used manifold no matter how 'Extremely Rare' it is that some machining may have been done in the past.
I have come across this issue a couple of times before where cylinder heads have been machined and then the intake milled to suit.
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Before you unbolt the intake manifold, it may be an idea to try and see if it's possible to slide a feeler gauge between the manifold and intake gasket.
It may give you an indication if you are getting any crush on the gasket.
Sounds like one hell of a leak if you have both coolant and vacuum leaks.
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5 hours ago, foothilltom said:I suppose its worth mentioning that the intake just came with the 351 block that I rebuilt. I should have put some thought into it, but I just wound up using it. Performer 351-W if that matters.
You should check that the 'used' manifold has not been machined.
If it has been previously been machined excessively then this may explain your intake leak.
Plenty of information on the internet on how to check this.
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If you correctly blue the valves i.e. apply it correctly, very thin - tap the valve up and down a couple of times without rotating it and it shows a correct seat, then lapping the valves will achieve nothing extra.
1969_Mach1 and Cantedvalve reacted to this -
9 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:Forgot to mention the lead seam at the top of the windshield post ,melt out the lead there ,there will be one weld under the lead a maybe a couple of spot welds also
Hey Ridge,
What do you use to fill in the recesses where it was originally lead filled, do you re-fill them with lead or use something different?
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The Centreforce weights are there to increase the diaphram clamping force at higher r.p.m, centrifugal force tends to throw the weights outwards at higher speeds increasing the pressure the diaphram spring applies to the clutch plate.
Best of both worlds, allows for reduced pedal pressure at low rpm with increased clamping force at higher rpm.
I use a Centreforce DF on mine, had no issues, works great.
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Seems like you've already made up your mind, but if it were me and the motor runs ok, I'd just buy a 28oz flex plate and try it.
It's a lot of extra work to get a engine balanced when it may not be necessary.
1969_Mach1 reacted to this -
You sound like your an experienced sort of guy, so at the risk of stating the obvious and not wishing to insult your competency, do you have your brake shoes facing the right direction?
The shorter leading shoe lining should face towards the front of your car and the longer trailing shoe lining should be facing the rear.
Just a thought.
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12 hours ago, JeffTepper said:To add to the mix, I chose the Scott Drake belts due to the similarity with the factory deluxe belt buckles. However, I really did not like the idea of having the exposed retractor reel on the floor behind the seat. I ended up fabricating a bracket for the rear bulkhead inside the fiberglass rear quarter trim panels. From there I had to cut a slot in the rear armrest area for the belt to pass into the interior. I finished off the slot with a trim piece off of a Corvette. Looks like a factory stock installation to the casual observer and no retractor on the floor.
Jeff,
Any chance of some pictures of the bracket in situ, I like the look of this set up.
As you mention "looks factory stock".
Borgeson pitman arm issue
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I'm no expert but I think you should have no linkage connected to your pitman arm. Then wind your steering box from lock to lock, accurately count how many turns it takes then halve that for centre. Then lock your wheel there so it can't move (maybe wrap some masking tape around the steering boss and the steering column) Your tie rods should be the same length either side, this is important. Then adjust your tie rods equally either side to get the Toe-In you want.