Jump to content

sidstang

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by sidstang


  1. Hi,

    I am finishing up my 69 coupe project and need the cat whiskers or beltline weatherstrip for the side quarter glass. When I bought a set last year, I got the pieces that go inside the doors. I looked on CJ Pony to pick up the rear set and they only sell it with the side door pieces-4 pc set. Has anyone here bought the 4 pc set and maybe has the 2 smaller side pieces laying around?

    Thanks.


  2. Thanks for your replies. The yellow wire was connected to the ground. The pin plug was missing on my wire harness and the setup to the alt has 3 holes- 2 on top and one on the bottom. The yellow wire burned completely and so I cut it off. I started the engine and it ran fine and the alt gauge was working fine. So I guess it's ok the way it's setup now. If anyone has any input, please reply.

    Thanks!


  3. Hi,

    I have a 69 Mustang Coupe with a 302 engine. I got extra parts from different cars when I bought it and I'm not sure how this should be hooked up. I have 3 wires coming off the alt. 1st is a thick black wire that comes off the alt and goes to the front headlight harness and then there's an orange one that I think goes to the field on the box on the firewall. And another wire-white or yellow, goes from the alt and it winds in through the wire harness through a rubber wire holder and goes to a ground. It doesn't connect into the harness. When I hooked them up and fired the engine the wire that goes to ground totally melted and burned off. Does anyone have pics of their wiring or can telll me how the wires are supposed to be hooked up? I have no tach on the dash. Is it possible that the wire that burned wasn't supposed to go to ground? And maybe was supposed to be for tach? 

    Thank you for your help!

    Sid


  4. Not sure if you think you need a 'period' correct carburetor for that engine.

    You don't.

    You match the carburetor to the car in terms of flow, as required by the engine size and the state of tune.

    High compression, big horsepower engines need more fuel, hence a larger, more sophisticated carburetor

    Drag cars need massive fuel instantly, so double pumpers and big accelerator pumps and squirters

     

    For your running 302, I would like to know what sort of build was done, or if it is a stock engine. Stock camshaft, stock heads?

     

    Your single plane torker manifold is designed for big flow carbs and manual transmissions. The dual plane manifolds have a divider under the carb to help with smooth transitions and uniform fuel feed to cylinders under street driving conditions.

     

    You could consider a more suitable intake, since it is an easy job to change it out. YOu may like the Torker. Try it first. Save some money . Also good idea to avoid changing lots of things at once, especially when changing out carburetors.

     

    You would be wise to consider a new carburetor, rather than a junk yard find. Absolutely no need to get a 1969 carburetor for that engine. In fact, you will be almost certain to be up for a rebuild on any old carburetor.

    All the many available and suitable carburetors for the Ford 302 will have all the linkages and ports needed for your engine.

     

    I like the Holley Street Avenger 570 for a stock 302. 670 if you have good heads and a cam.

    Many folks like the Edelbrock. I do not prefer them. QuickFuel carburetors are also very popular, as well as Summit Brand carburetors

     

    Thanks for the info. I thought I needed a "period" carb. Can I use a carb from a Chevy block? I understand your concern about using a junk yard carb, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on one. I basically want to get a carb on the motor to make sure the engine runs. I expect to buy a rebuild kit for any used carb I buy.

    Regarding history of the engine, it is a stock motor. The only mods I am aware of are the intake and headers.

    I appreciate all the info!


  5. I'm not sure what info you need. When I bought the car, it was a plain Jane 302 two owner car. The 2nd owner tore out the motor & trans to rebuild it, but some parts were missing when I bought it. So instead of piecing together the original motor, I bought a used 302 engine from a guy who pulled it from a running Mustang. It came with headers. He swapped it out for a bigger motor. He didn't include the carb with the motor, so I need to find one somewhere. Would it be better for me to switch the intake to accommodate a 2bbl carb? I just want to put it back together as a daily driver.

    Thanks for the help!


  6. .

    if you need them right away the following will work...maybe:

     

    bell housing to eng = 7/16" x 1 5/8 with lock washer

     

    motor mount to eng = 7/16" x 1 1/4" with lock washer.

     

    starter to eng = 3/8" x 1 3/8" with lock washer.

     

    trans mount to trans = 7/16" x 1 3/8" with lock washer.

     

     

    take these pieces to the store to confirm size . . the bolt should just barely fit in the holes/

     

    motor mount to frame = 3/8" x around 3 1/2" with 2 flat washers 1 lock washer and 1 nut. Use grade 8 washers.

     

    cross member to frame = 3/8" x measure the width of cross member.

     

    trans mount to cross member n= 7/16 nut lock washers and grade 8 flat washers and 2 standard grade 5 washers with a large outside like fender washers

     

     

    .

     

    .

     

    Thanks a lot Barnett468! That is what I needed.

    Sid


  7. Hi,

    I bought a basket case 69 Mustang and am putting in the 302 engine that came with it. But, I don't have the bolts. I would like to get them from the local hardware store, but don't know the sizes and lengths. Can anyone tell me what size & length are the:

    Eng - AT Trans bolts

    Starter Bolts

    Bolt that holds the motor mount together

    Crossmember bolts

    Help would be much appreciated!

    Thanks!

    Sid


  8. To answer your question,yes you can use the p valve that came with kit ..put it in series with the rear brake line.

     

    Ok, so my understanding is that I have 2 options:

    1. Use my original distributor block(Junction box) for drum brakes and install the new adj prop valve in the rear line.

    2. Buy an original distributor block for a 69 w/front disc brakes.

     

    Question? With option 2-it is my understanding that the distributor block is just a junction box that feeds all the lines to the mc. There is no proportioning valve in it. Is this correct? If so, would I also need a prop valve for this option?


  9. I have a 69 Mustang w/ orig 4 drum brakes. I have a set of orig front disc brakes I would like to install. I got a brake conv kit from Toms Classics on eBay, which included the booster, mc, pedal and prop valve-WITH NO INSTRUCTIONS! I am not sure if I should use the prop valve included in kit because it's adjustable. Do I keep my orig junction box? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

×
×
  • Create New...