Pakrat

These sockets were not originally designed to provide electrical power, and are not an ideal power connector for several reasons, notably the fact that two sizes exist for 12-volt DC (actually three if you count the older 6-volt DC systems) and the mating of the different sized 12 V DC plugs and jacks is problematic. Because of this, and the small-gauge wiring sometimes used, the power connections they provide are sometimes unreliable and not suitable for high-power devices. It may be possible to get a plug-in inverter which would convert to alternating current, and transform it up to 120 or 240 volts AC like the more modern power receptacles and when still included, cigar lighters. The other option would be to buy a seperate power receptacle and hide it under the dash. The differences though barely noticable to the eye are: 12 volt cigar lighter receptacle and plug, size A Receptacle inside diameter: 20.93 mm to 21.01 mm (median 20.97 mm) Plug body diameter: 20.73 mm to 20.88 mm (median 20.805 mm) Most often used in older American automobiles. 12 volt cigar lighter receptacle and power plug, size B Receptacle inside diameter: 21.41 mm to 21.51 mm (median 21.455 mm) Plug body diameter: 21.13 mm to 21.33 mm (median 21.18 mm) Most often used as a second socket in American automobiles expressly for DC power connections.

Here you go.

I saw a show a while back, can't remember which one it was though, where they actually used the lug nuts to pull the studs into the hub as they did not have a machine press handy. EDIT: found it: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_auto_restoration/article/0,2021,DIY_13680_5289249_02,00.html

Are these the same guys? http://www.hlpag.com/ They post in our for sale forum all the time.

From what I read on another forum from someone who did a walk thru of the place before the auction, everything was just lumped together awfully and obviously not a single car guy was there to help them, too bad really, they probably could have netted alot more if they had some thought in it. Camaro and Mustang parts piled together on one pallet for sale, unmatched sets of 4 wheels lumped in on one pallet with their mates spread out on 1 or more other pallets, body shells sitting on the pavement at angles with the quarters scraping around, lots of 4 and 5 fiberglass noses together with other parts scattered about instead of just packaging them as a complete kit, just awful. I have been thinking about sending a letter to the editor of MM and asking them to do a nice article on this for all the anti eleanor fans who had to endure month after month after month of looking at these fricken cars on the covers of every other magazine for way too long.

I was walking around downtown Boston yesterday afternoon taking in the sights and came across one in particular that assured me beyond a doubt that Spring was in fact finally here. Yep, that's right, spotting a nice pair of open toe'd shoes are always a dead giveway!

Many of us running 17" rims go with a 245 up front so I think 235 is fine. I think this is the chart you want. http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fitment%20Guide%2069-70.pdf

Are you running a stock intake still? My Weind has more damn ports on it than I know what to do with. I must of had to put in like 5 or 6 plugs at least. Personally that's the only place I would run the sensors from.

I certainly don't know all those answers off the top of my head but after having gone thru all that last fall I can tell you this, for the few pennies you will save it is totally not worth going back and forth to the hardware store and buying each one seperately and believe me I verified that thouroughly in an attempt to avoid paying for shipping. I decided to order them all from summit and it was the best move I made. I got the proper hardened stainless bolts for the intake, the locking bolts for the headers, the proper oil pan bolts that have the anti back out teeth under the flanged head, etc........ the only way to go, trust me. If you are still bent on buying it all yourself though, then still go to summit and look up each one, it will give you the specs on each one like size, length and t.p.i.

Are your catalogs new? I think these just popped up late last year. http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/item.asp?itemid=ER681L&catid=87

That was one of Shelby's color combo's on his cars prior to the 69' year, yes. Do you have all the correct dimensions already? Since you aren't duplicating anything that ever really exisited I would do what ever blue you like best and not worry about a correct blue since technically there isn't one for 69'. The dimensions are more important than anything for it to look right.

The new repros looks nice and are affordable, I would seriously consider those over used lights since they will require all new lenses and gaskets anyway.

Originally the black out was only done on the Mach 1 and the Boss, that's why you won't find any info on a standard sportsroof. Welcome by the way and you may want to post questions like this in the garage or tech forum in the future to get more replies. This section is really just for photoshop requests.

Only a couple days left to bid and steal some stang stuff. http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/article/Unique_Performance_Auction

I think I tried that stuff, not sure though. I had picked up a small bottle of something at autozone one day becasue they had a mail in rebate for like 75% of the sale price so I figured why not. It worked really well on small items like bolts and stuff for me but you would need a lot of it to submerge large parts in overnight and I decided sand blasting was better for that.

I think a more politically correct term would be Mustang Geek. I prefer Mustangaholic personally where it is possible to go a day or even two without before you really start jonesing for a Stang fix.

A typical stock Mustang tire was 195/70/14, maximum recommended replacement is 225/70/14. I ran this size all around on my stock rims before and it is fine.

Heh heh, nope, but I am pretty sure I know who's it is. He live's in Portsmouth but the angry golfer is just down the street from me and I have seen the Mustang parked there several times. What's sad is what they want from the guy though, I mean c'mon, $4600 for some busted windows? Give me a break. If the car is so rare why the hell is it parked on the streets at 3am? I'm not saying the guy was right to do that out of anger but the "victim" not only gets to stoop the guys wife but now he makes a profit as well? If it were me and they made me pay that on top I would smile and start crossing out 730 days of good behavior off the calander and on the day after last I'd be taking my golf club to his head shortly after I removed it from my wife's ass.

When you say a 5 speed swap I am assuming you mean from automatic and it's the clutch pedal you need? Burritoboi I believe cut his original brake pedal down and then flipped another brake pedal to use as a clutch and made his own mounting point for it. Don't know how well it works or looks but you might want to contact him for info if he doesn't chime in.

I am pretty sure you will only find that from a parts car. One of mine was badly dented from I assume a very old fender bender and I had to straighten it out best I could.

With items like this that is an easy mistake, at a glance they appear to all be the same, at least you learned something new and with the assembly codes this was easy to fix. You would think Ford would have made them all the same knowing their usual MO but I guess this was about the only way to make sure things did not get mixed up on the line.

This looks a million times better than the original, it is a tad pricey though. It's given me some interest in taking anoother whack at my budget modded stock one though again.

I still think you are going about this the wrong way. Even if you find the perfect item to make a gasket it will have to have a seam somewhere in order to run it around the perimeter of the egde, that won't look show quality and it won't be 100% water tight. I think your best bet is to get a roll of firm regular foam rubber weatherstrip, say something that is 1/2-5/8" wide and about 1/4-3/8" thick and run it all around the back side of the tail panel like this, stop tightening and compressing it when the lens is within 1/16" of touching the edges. This is how they would have done it at the factory except it would have been a molded part. I actually fooled around with a simillar look to this a few years ago but I took a trashed and melted lens, cut of the three tips that use to stick through the holes real close to the base (about the same as the thickness of the tail panel edge) and then made new faces out of a drop ceiling light panel that I sprayed with tail lens red. This way the lens was flush with the outside of the tail panel instead of the inside and it mounted with all the same factory gaskets. Come to think of it, I bet you could even use the factory gasket as well and just shave it down to the right thickness. Actually now that I think about it further, what type of gasket does a 67/68 lens use? Don't they have a simillar finished look?

One other thought, is your new lens one piece like the original? If so why can't you apply a regular foam weatherstrip to the flat surface of the lens instead of the edge of the panel and have it seal that way? It would help more to see the lens also or at leats a concept sketch of how the two come together.