Jump to content

Infinity

Members
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Infinity

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 03/28/1977

Converted

  • Location
    Little Elm, TX
  1. My suspension is currently original with the exception of the shocks which I just replaced. Now, I just purchased some cobra rotors and will get the Mustang Steve conversion and I plan to add some 17x8 up front and 18x9.5 out back. I do plan to upgrade the suspension, but that is the next phase. Should I be concerned about the stock part with this hardware? I would hate to see one of my nice new shiny rims rolling off into a field while me and the car smack into a wall :) Thanks, Josh
  2. 1 more thing. The 2 lines came with metal clamps holding them together. you need to remove those first and push the lines individually. It was easy to put the bands back on after both lines were installed. If you don't do this, it will be just about impossible to get lines around everything. Josh
  3. I know everyone is eagerly waiting on the solution to this problem :) What a pain in the @ss!!!! In my case I had to do this because a line broke. If you ever look down and think to yourself, "my transmission lines look dirty, I should buy some pretty new ones." Grab a beer and walk away! It is obvious that this is a job that is meant to be done as you drop the engine and trans in, not after. In the end, I had to take out the radiator (already done) and feed the lines in through the front. I also had to remove the starter. There was still a slight bit of tugging and pulling to get the lines the clear a cross member and the transmission. As of now, I am glad that is done as my car is almost ready to get back on the road. Now I just hope nothing leaks! Josh
  4. I need some help. .. I had a large crack in my radiator and purchased a new one. Since one thing always leads to another on this car, one of the trans cooler lines broke in half when I went to disconnect it. No problem I thought. I puchased a new set from Dallas Mustang, but I can't get them under the car!! They are too ridged and there are too many things in the way. I have a 250 6cyl with a c4 transmission and power steering. I have been trying not to disconnect anything, but I am not sure if that is possible. Any one have some ideas on an easy way too get these lines in? Thanks, Infinity
  5. My father built a 56 ford pickup and painted it bright yellow. He then had ghost flames which were mostly pearl with some slight accents around the tips. It gave it a very agressive look, but wasn't in your face like a lot of flame jobs are. What about doing some like that with you stripes? Maybe a slightly lighter shade of red with lots of pearl. You would see them, but they wouldn't jump out at you. Josh
  6. well that was a lot of help :) Just kidding! Actually, I found that I use a piece of wire through the bottom to hold the brushes in. Once it is reassembled, I take out the wire and I am home free :) Now, lets see if I can actually do that! Even if I purchased a new one, I probably would have painted it anyway and would have needed to take it apart. . . To be honest, I know I am a few years away from a v8 so I want to spend a little money on my 6 as possible. I do want it to look nice in the mean time and I would prefer if it runs. Josh
  7. Hello, I decided to pull the alternator and repaint it just to clean things up in the engine bay. When I took it apart, I found that the top brush was nearly worn away and the bottom brush had disintegrated (sp?)! It was working ok, but I am sure it didn't have much longer. I purchased 2 new brushes today and have a question. Is there a trick to keeping the springs compressed while attached to the brushes when you put the alternator back in place? Also, the top brush was screwed to the top right post. Where does the bottom bruch attach to? Is it on the same post, or the other side? It was aparently ripped clean off! Thank you! Josh
  8. I used tape last night, wrapping it around twice. I went finger tight with an extra full turn on the wrench. So far, no leaks. Thanks guys. Josh
  9. I think it will look much better once the car is lowered around the wheels. I love the look of 17" and 18" rims on our cars, but the stance has to be a bit low to make it look right. Way to blaze the trail though. I enjoy seeing the various options. It will give me something to choose from when I get to suspension, brakes, wheels and tires! Josh
  10. How tight does the fuel filter need to be? Mine is for a 6cyl and it screws directly into the carb. It was leaking the other day so I tightened it. I guess I have more muscle than I thought because it broke! I bought a new one and broke it again! Should I just put some thread tape on it, go finger tight, then turn it 1 more turn with a wrench? Thanks, Josh
  11. I found that in order to use the shoulder harness, you have to use the longer belt. Mine was is just a plain coupe, but the should on the ceiling is non-adjustable while the lap belt has a tensioner on the door side. Hope the helps. Josh
  12. I am going to pick up a can of paint and clear and try it. If it doesn't work, I will just go black as planned. Probably not going to try to rattle can the exterior just yet, although it could use some paint help! Josh
  13. Thanks again! i like the idea of giving it a proper color instead of just going black. I was only really doing that because I didn't think I could match the blue. I will see if I can find that paint and give it a go. It is works, There are a few other places I would love to paint with it as well. Josh
×
×
  • Create New...