Grabber70Mach

The cab i am using is actually a 36 although the 35 parts will fit ,easiest way to tell a 35 is the notch at the bottom of the wind shield posts ,the 36 is rounded ,although i have had two original 35s with the rounded post to the cowl . The 35 doors have a removable window frame ,the 36 and 37 do not . The grill for the 35 is shorter than the 36 and i think mush better looking ,the 37 is totally different and rounded but not as ugly as a 39-39. 
The hood has a v in the louvers where the ford emblem goes ,the 36 side panel has long louvers all the way with the emblem in the front of the louvers . 37 hood sides are long but way different from the 36 and has a smaller V8 emblem mounted right on the center of the louvers . 37 hood will not fit a 35 36 ,it longer and shaped a bit different 

Well ,what do you know ! Its kind of hard to take a door from one cab and have it fit another cab ,you guys complaining about fitting mustang parts just dont know ! These things were fit to each cab as they were built ,the driver door just has to come up a bit and the passenger has to go back a bit at the bottom ,they are usually way off but these look great !

It was a sad when old Betty went away .

My 37 ,on a 35 frame ,i will use this frame and i have a lot of trim pieces to choose from among other parts 

After pretty much loosing my old 35 ford i have been thinking about it a lot lately ,i think i need to build another one ! I used to collect them ,i had several at one time but i am down to just 4 now haha.
I even made my own patch panels like the rear bottom of the cab ,you couldnt buy this patch several years ago and it a pretty normal rust out area . Now there is quite a few patch panels for them ,you can even buy new running boards ,but i have a good set . My cab i will be using isnt bad but no where as straight as my old 35 was . I have a pretty decent pair of doors with just a small ding in each door that will be fixable without the use of bondo . I need the rockers ,they make them now ,and a couple of lower corner patches that i have from an old crushed cab . 
I have piles of head lights ,interior trim ,window regulators ,door latch assemblies you mame it i have it here some where. .
I happen to have a pretty good 35 frame in my shop with a 37 pick up setting on it but my favorite is the 35 .
I have a few hood panels hanging on the wall with a super nice 35 grill ,its the one on the left .
I pulled the cab and a few parts out just to see what i need ,looks like i have to find a passenger side front fender but shouldnt be to hard to find . I bought a couple of 35 -37 rear fenders a few years back  that need a bit of work but they are almost impossible to find because these things were used as a truck and the rear fenders were the first thing destroyed . 

I said all along it would be something so stupid you wouldn't even think of it ! When i put the 07 motor into my 05 mustang the 07 harness was still on it ,it wouldnt work in the 05 so i had to change it inside the car ,that wasnt easy because it was almost impossible to get to the tranny sensors . I must have twisted the rear part of the harness,the part with the plug ins for the 02 sensors . I had the bank 1 sensor plugged into the bank 2 02 sensor and the bank 2 sensor plugged into the bank 1 sensor ...does not work that way ! Swapped the plug ins today and its like a new car ,should be ,i replaced every sensor ,spark plugs ,coils  and even resealed the intake and throttle body . Now i can finally finish it up and drive !

1970 Standard Dash Cluster Wiring:
 

Pretty sure that is the clip for the brake pedal shaft.

To me, that clip looks like the one that holds the brake pedal shaft in place. 

Wow that's a nice acquisition, definitely keep us updated on your progress and take us on the journey with you. 

Sounds like some great music to my ears.  Better than the stuff I have to put up with at work that makes my ears bleed.

I went with 18x8.5 front with 245/45, and 18x10 rear with 275x40. The diameter is the same on both so the sidewall heights are equal. It is dead flat. I think it comes down to whether you like historic/stock or updated/modern. Both are fine, just pick what you like. Lots of the TV customizations go with bigger wheels and really thin tires, I always thought the thinner stuff like 35xs didn't look right on classic muscle. Plus they ride like skateboard wheels, hard as a rock. The 18's clear the upper and lower ball joint in the front so you can run a little more back spacing. I rolled the fenders all the way around to avoid shredding tires. They don't rub on most stuff in and out of driveways, etc.  Post a pic of what you end up with !

Oh yeah its dropped 2" in back and 1.5 in front. I don't like "air" between the fender and tires. ;-)
 

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage.
I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.

Wow that's a nice acquisition, definitely keep us updated on your progress and take us on the journey with you. 

Wow that's a nice acquisition, definitely keep us updated on your progress and take us on the journey with you. 

So we haven’t been standing still, we just haven’t started on it.  Still finishing dads Dart.   I am collecting parts where I can. Mainly when I see a good deal on original parts.  I found a rear valence that needs some work but is in good shape.  I found a grille support bracket as well.  Finally, my Dynacorn floor came in!  Got a killer deal on eBay, and it shipped direct from Dynacorn.

People in hell want ice water. 

Drove to Canyon Lake TX to pick up my first love from a buddy.  My first vehicle was a 56 F100, which I foolishly sold circa 1980. 

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today.  I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order.  I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.
 

Well, getting pretty close to being caught up. Took the hood back off, as only wanted it on there to line up stripes and keep busy while waiting for engine to be done. 302 (308 now) engine installed near Christmas. finally got engine back. as written about last time everything changes. was going to rebuild engine myself then decided since its already out better go ahead and do it right. took to local shop (Dave ARCE) in San Diego. great small shop cool guys. engine was already 40 over and I did not want to go 60. he recommended just bore the cylinders as little as possible and get custom pistons cut as they only couple hundred bucks extra (sure my credit card is already gasping but I don't want to have to redo anything costing more later). He also had them put the wrist pin slightly lower to get better compression? sounded good to me. ended up 43 over with simple Edelbrock heads and a mild roller cam. Im gonna drive this nearly every day so don't need to be able to race but still want to have fun. COVID decided that everything was going to take forever to arrive so car was nearly done when engine showed up. that's ok because my garage is not big. 
So engine started but ran like crap and I couldn't get the timing right, called the shop and looks like the firing order is now same as 351. swapped some wires and runs like a top. below is changing plug wires and valve covers. (shiny). Backed her up to a T5 from Modern Drive line. May have to do a whole write up on only that. Those guys are AMAZING. I called MDL and the owner answered the phone. he talked with me for nearly 30 minutes. He wanted to know everything from how I plan on driving to expectations to rear end. ultimately they sent me everything INCLUDING fluid. I only had to source an actual pedal (talked about that earlier)
Last thing, note the Power brake booster that I thought was a great idea and took great pains to get the clutch cable attached to. More on that later but boy do I regret that one. 
 

Put Stripes on. Decided an off center would be different. just using vinyl strips that I cut for now. will likely paint on later. Blue tape on the cowl was to Align everything. After putting the vinyl on the cowl and looking terrible on the slots I just painted the stripe on the cowl. Also had front and back glass installed. I didn't do that as I didn't want to take a risk at messing it up. however it was pretty cheap as I had the original back glass. best part was they came to my house to do it. great news as I was worried I would have to tow it to a place. 

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better