Grabber70Mach

Finished gas pedal

Hi Vic,
Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70.  The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together.
They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr
Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots.
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair
Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left). 

Congratulations and good luck! Is the paint shop painting the panels on or off the car?
I used a Mach 1 hood stripe temp from NPD. The shop laid down the black and then a mat clearcoat on, after painting the body color/clearcoat and sanding the clearcoat over the stripe area. The mat clear holds up real well to the elements and does not become shiny from wax. Others folks use Hotrod black. It has a nice rich black Mat finish that also holds up well. My rear trunk lid stripe is a tape stripe.
 

Finally off to the paint shop after 5 years of working on the car!   Will take around 60 days,  I have use the shop before, they’re not really fast but they do very high-quality work
I will need a recommendation on hood stripes, I’m not sure if I even want to use them, but if I do, looking for best possible quality product that you all have used.

Trying to finish up my trunk build before I go to paint.  Mounted my Sub-Woofer, and fabricated panel for my marine access door on the drivers side.  Last thing to do is to finish the passenger side where my battery is mounted, that will require some thought....
 

Remember guys, I have a completely (mostly) unmolested 1970 fastback to get measurements and such off of.  I am not without a guide.  It is indeed more than I anticipated, but I genuinely look forward to it.
Yesterday we cleaned and piled up our scrap.  Going forward I hope to clean after each work session so we can maintain some level of clean.
Also, parts continue to roll in.

New din tool arrived today. Mush heavier.
inserted tool.   Nothing… I have given up. Lol
 
may just have aftermarket instslled
 
thanks.. sam
 
 

I had the misfortune of having someone get white over spray on my Mach 1, which I didn't notice for two weeks. The over spray came off the red paint easily enough with a clay bar, but didn't touch the over spray on the black matte. Other than a respray, none of my several contacts had much advice. 
While searching online I ran across a spray on product from Dr Beasley's that claimed to remove over spray from matte black. Riiight. I figured I'd waste $35 plus shipping before I'd respray the hood. I had no faith it would work, but I'm a believer in it now. Directions said spray it on, wait 5 minutes, wipe it off. The first application removed most of the white speckles, so I applied a second coat and waited 8ish minutes. The result was effin magic. Well worth the $50 and twenty minutes. 

thank you.  i always thought of myself as a bad ass 6'2", 165 lb biker dude (well bicycler anyways....lol).
the falcon steers easier, brakes better, shifts easier and has an easier clutch than the mustang.  the falcon rides flat around the corners, but i don't think that means it handles the corners better.  i'm pretty certain if i pushed the falcon at all around the corners that it would be in the ditch.   it has no front sway bar and has a rear four link that is inherently in bind on roll or a single side bump.  but, i really don't have any interest in finding the limits on the corners of these cars on the street.   i will say the mustangs leaf springs with a detroit locker give an interesting feel when in and out of the throttle.  great for giving people rides.  the falcon rear end is extremely well behaved.  i'm sure the 4-link/panhard is the primary reason.  maybe the helical differential helps too.
the falcon seats are considerably different as compared to the mach 1 seats.
the clutch in the falcon (Ram Force 10.5" dual sintered iron disc) is slipping bad.  and that is with the throttle heavily limited (probably limited to flow about 60%).  Mccleod just finished balancing an RXT1200 assembly and should be here in a few days. i hope that resolves that issue and i can get at least a hit or two at the dragstrip this fall.

Get the body in shape, including everything that is structural.  Without that foundation, everything else will be harder to do.  Once done, concentrate on getting it to be a roller (brakes, steering, suspension)  so you can trailer it to a paint shop in the future.  Before paint, make sure the doors, fenders, windows, etc. all fit correctly.  Then after paint, consider installing the wiring next, then the engine and interior.  It will be a long process...so be patient.

Hi! My name is Kaitlyn and I bought a roller 1969 mustang back in march and I'm working on restoring it. I of course have a million questions and often times find myself feeling completely lost lol but i'm trying to take it one step at a time since its such a big project and I know it will end up being more expensive than i'm expecting. I'm sending it in next week to have some chassis work done (new floor pans, fixing some holes in the wheel wells, sandblasting, epoxy, etc.) because I felt like all of that should be done by a professional! My question for now is what's next, I feel like this is the first big thing I've done for the car, other than cleaning it out when I first got it and doing research as much as possible. Im sure there isn't an exact process but I just don't know exactly what direction I should go in after this, do I do electrical, brakes, interior? I know when it's time I want to put the 351 W in the car and I've been looking at the T5 transmission (5 speed manual trans, fairly sure it was common in the foxbody mustangs) Those are my basic questions for now, I've definitely got a lot to learn in this process but I'm excited to learn and watch the transformation of the car, it's crazy to think I have my dream car! I would love any advice anyone has! 

Are your spacers and wheels hub centric? Tire may be balanced when put on the balance machine but if it does not sit hub centric on the axle, it can crate vibration.

After a while some parts arrived to my eshop, so I was able to start put the car together. I bought Scott Drake lowering kit for rear end, installed tank and sending unit and modified tail lights with LED modules.   

yeah, I need to check amperage to get the right fuse. from what I was told by dakota digital tech support a 30 amp fuse should do the trick. this is the one thing I haven't done.
I'll need to install a fuse for each relay this weekend and install it one on the green wire.
 

Having second thoughts about fog light location. Too low? Maybe rectangular lights in lower opening?

My dad had a 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 back when he was a senior in high school and freshman in college. He sold it while in college to help pay for college. That was back in 1974. He loved that car, but knew he was better off getting his degree. His car had a 4 speed, bench front seat, signal indicators on the fenders, B5 Bright Blue Metallic with a white vinyl top - NO stripe.
Back in 1997 (I was 20) he wanted to get another car. He searched and searched, and the only one he could find that hadn’t been chopped up to be a race car was in South Carolina. We flew down there and purchased the car. It ran and drove, but the speedometer didn’t work and the gas gauge was stuck on empty. He bought it, and we drove it all the way back to Indiana that night. We timed ourselves between mile markers to keep speed. We stopped every 150 miles for gas. Made it home. It is a real Swinger 340 with a bench seat, 4 speed, T5 Copper Metallic with a white vinyl top and a white stripe. No signal indicators on the fenders. It has since been painted an awful orange, and has signs of body filler on the driver front fender and door.
That's the preamble.  The rest is over on the FABO forums.  Dad's 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340

I know. No updates.  There was a reason.  I was finishing dads car.  1969 Dodge Dart 340 Swinger.  Got it aligned and wheels installed.  Here she is after her first bath in decades.

Philatelic catalog just came out, going to be releasing some muscle car Fore ever stamps, 5 different cars, but one is a yellow 69 Boss 302. Scheduled to release 8/25/22. 
here’s the link if interested 
https://www.usps.com/stamp-collecting/assets/pdf/usa_philatelic_catalog.pdf

Went to wallmart this morning ,didnt want to park anywhere where it may get door dinged so i parked next to a black hell cat and a RT that was same color as mine but with black stripes ,we all three had the same wheels ,i think this was the designated Challenger only parking space ,forgot my phone so i couldnt get a pic!

Mucho beuno ! I like these wheels !
I didnt know it was independent rear end . The car automatically resets the tire pressure sensors as well   

I got the old fire wall out ,that thing was really in there ,it looks like i need to pick up a sheet of 19 gauge sheet metal to build the new one . I am going to sand blast before i put in the new fire wall so i can get at everything . 

I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo .
I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else .
The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .

20 years ago i was the only one that made a patch panel for the back of the cab ,a friend machined the dies for my bead roller ,it cost me a whole $80 ,i wonder what it would cost to make these dies today?

Found a pic of my fiberglass 37 pick up grill

35 ,36 ,and 37 hood side panels . 
The fenders are pretty much the same as are the running boards except the 37 front fender is completely cut out for the bumper brackets to pass through ,35 36 has a window in the front of the fender for the bumper brackets to pass through . There is  differences between the 35 36 and 37 inside as well ,but 35 36 is almost the same