Grabber70Mach

Here is what I found when I went to purchase the car. ;) 
I was able to drive it home, and it took two more trips to his house to pick up all the parts. The good news is that all the parts I needed where there. In talking to him, I think he was over his head on the project and just wanted to get out from under it. 
 

try using firefox or different browser, for some reason on chrome it requires to sign-in or it won't show. its on my gdrive and that link is for public view (go figure) lol. 
The fluid was more powder like, like a metallic flake paint, I hovered a magnet over the stream would move slightly. 
in regards to the rebound shock part, I let shaun know and he responded back: I haven't had a need to modify the shocks.  There won't be an enormous amount of droop travel, it isn't really required unless you are picking up inside rear wheel in turns (won't happen) or are off roading it (not going to happen hopefully). 
again, I'm not going modify anything with out his Shaun's guidance/approval, but it was just a concern from the shop Tech as I wanted transparency on the install.  
As for the rear end gear whine Shaun followed up with me yesterday and spoke with his Strange Engineering rep: 
PRF130 WITH TRUTRAC
DID HE DO THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE ?
SEE THE NOTES  IN THE PDF ATTACHED
THEY ARE TIGHT AND WILL MAKE NOISE
FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE
USE 85-140 NON SYNTHETIC OIL  
IF STILL ISSUES  HE WILL  HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR INSPECTION
PLEASE ADVISE
I've already responded back with answers and follow up questions: 
200 miles in breakin procedure, but stopped due to the gear whine and didn't want to void warranty.  First used Master Pro 85w-140 conventional gear oil changed fluids to Lucas 85w-140 Conventional gear oil What Brand Gear am I using? Some Brands tend to have gear whine (Im running on 3:50's) In regards to a "tight fit" (which will make noise), is there a way to know what the tolerances are for this type of setup? i.e backlash set up..etc. Ill take pics of the stance on where it sits now haven't had the time due to work. 
 
 

Yes, there are seven 2x4s high, with a piece of ¾" osb on top. It's 11¼" in height, which works perfect for my floor jack's jacking height. 
I added a couple of 2x4s on the ends for tire roll. In my prior pic there are 2 thin pieces of steel with grease between them during the alignment. 

For something as simple as changing oil, I use the drive on ramps. Easy peasy.
When I need to lift the front or back, or both, I use the front torque boxes and lift the rear from the center of the rear housing. I rarely use jack stands anymore since I built a set of 2x4 cribbing stands. 

Alright update 2: Original thread: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/sot-3-link-watts-install.1209996/
After checking pinion angles, I finally was able to get the right angles I needed. Thanks to you all and Shaun from SOT. 
I took the car for a drive but car kept bottoming out and had a loud thump (pinion yoke hit the 3rd link heim joint) after readjusting the coilovers (more height) and resetting pinion angles car was much better and wasn't bottoming out. Finally, I took the car to an alignment speed shop here in mountain view to redo the front alignment and check the rear suspension if there was any issues. 
tech said everything was good with front alignment so no major big change, other than my idler arm was failing (was on my list to do anyways), so we swapped it to open trackers roller idler arm.
as for the rear suspension, shock compression was good, but rebound of the shock was a concern, he showed me by lifting the car on the lift it would not fully extend would move have 1/4 an inch, but suggested if I want full rebound (better ride quality) possibly a 1/2 - 1" coil over spacer may work but overall due to the limitation shock mount, its leaves little to no major re-adjustment like the TCP Quadra link or other kits out there, only real adjustment you have is to adjust the coil over spring. 
now, during the break-in process of the strange rearend, I have been getting this gear whine since first install, noted I understand some kits like mine will make noise as the 3rd link or 4 links brackets are welded on to the rearend housing which causes the noise. however, I spoke with others that have this kit and seen their videos, none provide this gear whine. let me know what you think. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10eIgOuF0ek8i8K0XVhzRjR6q1tqahJiZ/view 
emailed SOT, said that is normal i need to add sound deadener to limit the vibration sounds, however in the main cabin has some sound deadener but not the trunk. I still think it's the gears making this noise. 
per strange engineering break in procedure I need to use non synthetic 85w-140, I used Motion Pro (Oreilly brand) first, then after 200 miles, I decided to change fluids I did see metal shavings, assuming this is normal during breakin. 
I changed fluids again but I used lucas 85w-140, however, no real change and the whine is loud above 40mph
SOT hasn't responded, Im sure he's probably busy so ill wait and email again. but if no action is taken, Im going to remove the rear and send it back to strange for inspection. 
Ugh, just when you think you can enjoy the car you go back to square 1. 
 
 
 
 

Well...Bob. Okay, I admit, I only drive it on dry sunny days... Mostly to car shows on the weekends, but I enjoy every minute that I am behind the wheel... and that's no bull :-)

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

We spent the morning drilling holes and sanding flanges. We also put the firewall in the car to test fit again, and to see if I can install the torque boxes the way I want. We ran out of 3 inch sanding disks, but they should be here today. The lower cowl panel export brace holes aren’t quite lining up with the firewall. I didn’t play with it too much, but we may have to relocate them. Driver side of the firewall needs to come up 1/4” to meet the cowl flange
 

Some recent acquisitions. We were able to find a nicely restored original Hurst shifter. Reproduction rods and handle, but original levers and T-handle. Also just purchased an original 1969 gauge cluster with tach and 140mph speedometer. Not sure I’ve ever seen a 140mph speedo before. Will obviously need to trade the panel for a 1970, but the gauges will work. 

The big day is here! Today we made sparks! Previously we drilled holes at 5/16” In the inner rocker. We are welding inside to out, as it offers much less area you have to grind on that will also be visible. We did have some exceptions back at the torque box area where we had to weld outside to in. We completed the welds on the passenger side. Truthfully, I did most of it while my son helped, but he did get in there and do some himself, but he wasn’t as confident as I was with rosette welding. We used 5/16” holes, but we could have used 1/4” holes particularly if we were welding outside to in. 

Our process was as such. We put epoxy primer on both the inner surfaces, including where the wells would go. We then drilled holes. We then positioned the body side back up on the car and clamped it. I took a burned up 1/4” drill bit and flattened the end to use as a scraper to remove the epoxy on off the back metal in the hole area and used it with a die grinder. Then we welded. Where you see scorch marks in the first photo was where we had drilled holes and used screws to hold it together. Turned out awesome. Still need to grind the welds flat. About 3 hours of work

Pictures…

Weather seems to be warming up.  We havent had much chance to do work on the car.  I've been rebuilding the engine in dad's mower (Onan P220 for the interested... couldnt talk him into the SBF).  That will be done Friday.  Next week will be warm enough that we can get primer on the firewall (which miraculously hasnt rusted), and continue mock up.  I did start purchasing engine parts.  We also tore down the block to the bones, and it will be headed towards the machine shop this summer.  I hope to start having more regular updates starting next week.

Not strictly related to ‘69 forum , but here is the next project; 1968 fastback.
i  vowed  to myself not to do one major resto, but can’t resist one more fastback project as will take me through to my retirement in circa 2-3 yrs time. 
Definitely not for purists, ex US West Cost car,  has hybrid MII at present, ripping it out, and putting a MTF front end in with a Coyote and supercharger
. After that I’ll do one piece floor, cowl, mini tubs, rear 3 links etc but keep the body  line of the 68 as I just love it shape. Wish me luck for the next 3-4 yrs. 
 

Apologies I’ve not posted any updates recently, but the good news she is finally only the road over here in the U.K..
Had a number of issues such as timing and brakes, so it went way for a few weeks to someone I know  to sort it out 
Still got some seals to fit, miscellaneous jobs to sort out, but  it’s first run out was last weekend to a local show. It drove well and I’m so pleased with it.
So it is true that good things come to those who wait ! 
chris 

Would love to have it all back but i have moved on . I still have 2 69 sport roofs if i get that urge again . After selling my collection and loosing the property ...because of scum ball drug selling ,well ...i just lost all interest . I may get into one of the 69s this summer as i bought a 428 un assembled but fully machined . 
@FFJD  i would really love to see more pics as you go !

Yes, of course I asked him if he was interested in any of the parts and if he changes his mind he would be at the top of the list. 
Im putting a Tremec in and with the stroker kit the builder chose a different intake and AFR heads.
Forgot, I also have Shelby ‘roll bar’ available. I welded in a real half cage.
 

I wouldn't try it unless you have a Zray crossmember specifically designed to lift from (he's a well known member on VMF). The problem is slipping off the member and knocking a hole in something like your oil pan :(

I have been looking for an automatic for my 2005 Gt for over a year now ,its nearly impossible to find ,it 2005 and 2006 only just like the wiring ...Fords better idea i guess! Just picked up a 2005 GT 30 miles from me for 2000. 
The kid decided to ad a radio and did his own wiring ,yep ,you guessed it ,he set it on fire! He burned the top off the fuse box ,and the casing off the harness but it didnt burn the wires . Melted a brand new battery ! I gave him 2000 for it ,got it home and replaced all the melted fuses and dropped in a new battery and yee haw the sucker fired right up haha!
I drove it around the pasture and it runs great and shifts perfect ,i could have put it back together but the kid started to strip it already . 
Today i pulled the motor and tranny and found it had a fresh rebuild tranny ,new starter ,new alternator ,front struts ,drilled and slotted rotors that dont even have the machine marks rubbed off ,new joints in the drive shaft and lowering springs . This is all going in my 2005 ,and it all cost me less than having my tranny rebuilt !
The motor has 121000 miles and runs great so it may go in my 56 fairlane . All in all it was a good day for me ,and i should have mine running  in a few days .

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

I reached out to Danno and I'm happy to report that he is ok and still has the Mustang. He says life got busy but plans to return to the site when things subside and he has the time again. :)

It's been a long while since I've posted a update but a good friend made my MC bar recently and I finished my plug wires just now.  
The msd ones I had on were rubbing against the shock towers.  
Next I run my starter solenoid and power line then wire up the contour fans.  Just a single 10ga power wire to each from my relays inside  controlled by my Dakota controller and I'll ground them to the frame or something. 
Then I'll start hiding all the wires with my flame retardant wire loom and make it look nicer.   Almost.....

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible.  These come highly recommended from local restoration shops.   I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit.
What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620.   It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem.
The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination.  I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there.  All of the hardware was very high quality.  I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console.   The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors.   
So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.   
 
 

Still working on my center console project.  I actually have a brand new console that I will install all of this stuff on once I am done mocking it up on the old, original console.
Getting close.  Need to add a couple relays and that should be it.   I will post schematic/block diagram when all done.  I installed blue LEDs in the Phantom gauges.  Looks good.