Grabber70Mach

Oh...the pictures of the front spoiler make it look pretty large. That is because the front bumper is not on.  I will post an update once the bumper is on and correctly fitted.

Visited the body shop last week, making good progress.  I got my NPD Ford tooling shaker hood and am happy to report that it only needed minor tweaking to get aligned.  I also have billet hood hinges, apparently they needed some tweaking, I will report back on that after I go back there on Wednesday.
The current work is focused on getting my Maier Racing one piece front spoiler fitted up. That is a very nice piece of work heavy fiberglass, and fits really well.  Just a few things to do and it will fit fine.
I was at Carlisle Ford show this weekend, and searched for a decent 1970 hood trim piece. As you know, the NOS ones are hard to find and expensive.  I did have a good friend offer to let me use his to make sure the hood and headlight trim line up correctly, will be bringing that up there to the body shop on Wednesday.
I also will bring my front bumper, and the associated mounting brackets up there to ensure that they clear the spoiler/valence combination and that the bumper lines up correctly.  
To answer the other questions....  the car will be in the paint booth twice. The first trip will be very soon, and will be the initial prime coat over the body work that has been done.  Then, out of the booth, and back into the shop to be block sanded. After that back into the paint booth do do the base coat, hood stripe, and first clearcoat.  In the end we will end up with 3 layers of clearcoat.
The place that is doing the work is the same shop that painted my '68 coupe.  The main business is called Klassic Rides.  The shop where my car is located is called GunnerZ, which is a sister business to Klassic Rides.  Both are located in Newton, North Carolina.  Klassic Rides painted my '68, it needed a lot of work.  GunnerZ is primarily paint and body for cars that don't need an extensive amount of work.  
My car has been "waiting in line" for 8 months to get started.  The current wait time is approaching a year.
But, my '68 was painted 15 years ago, and the paint job is still flawless.  
PIcs below of my '68 coupe in 1967 Marina Blue Metallic, a '63 Corvette in my final color of "Sebring Silver",  and the ongoing work on the '70 convertible.
My guess is that I will have the car back sometime in July or August.
 

Decided to finally get around to do a little paint correction, the car had scratches, swirls, and blue and red marks around the car. I washed and clay bared the car then decided to try the Mequiar's DA Microfiber two step detailer. (Correction Compound D300  &  Finishing Wax D301). I have read good things about it, and it produces low dust residue when removing the compound. The only thing I did not like was how hard the compound was to buff off. Overall, I liked the product, and the results. 
 

I'm finishing up the install of a Vintage Air system on my '70 351W and, assuming that I'm understanding the VA instructions, the lower heater outlet goes to the water pump and the upper inlet with the valve goes to the manifold. 
 

You got skeelz bro.
 

A couple of screws to hold it together and it looks like you could slip it right into place 

I have the whole interior for my 69 now.
I have had the molds for the trap door for some time ,made from a perfect 69 trap door ,it uses all the factory attachments .
I have also had the hockey sticks for a while .
The fold down latch covers came out perfect .
I even have the roll bar covers for the shelby bar ,i will be putting one in my 69 .
The piece above the trap door is finished both sides and uses the factory mounting clips 

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

Maybe you already seen this aftermarket part from Tinman. I just learned of it, so It thought I'd pass it along.
https://www.tinmanfabrication.com/products/mustang-convertible-crossover-drive-shaft-loop-1965-1972

So I never posted it in this thread but it was at that point that I was taking it to get the AC system charged and it backed into a tree damaging the passenger door, front fender and ripping the side mirror off.  I couldn't even look at the car for a few weeks.


I took it to a couple shows with the dents and then I got in touch with a new body shop since the one I was waiting on was taking forever and it ihas been at that shop since Feb 2023.  The engine was pulled and inspected and found to not be the original 302 block so I sold it and the transmission.  Will be installing a built T5 and the plan is to build a roller 351W with stock bottom end and new intake, headers and carb.  I already have the carb.

the replacement clutch setup that went in last year is operating and holding well now.  i know i'm shifting at 7800+.  i also have the throttle adjusted so it's opening all the way.  just trying to find the right time in the next few weeks to get it to the track.  except for some shock adjustments and removing the tool kit from the back seat, i will track it just as the car is setup for the street.
 

Where's the drool emogi when you need it.
 

two pics from back in may of 2022 at a local event.  My dad drove the falcon and i drove the mustang.  it was great to have my dad take a car and have two hot rods there.
 

 

Update: He replied back to me on Youtube, and I was able to purchase a set of plans. 
I should have them this week, and I'll report back. 

Well, the day has finally come.  The car is about to be transformed with new paint.  It waited in the shop for 9 months in line to get to this point.  I will document the progress.....   I am now going to open my favorite beverage and have a toast the car I have named "Gerry".  Named after the older gentleman who I acquired the car from. He had planned for years to restore it, but never got to it.  He passed away this January, and never got to see the car completed.  I will make sure his Daughter and Family get the pictures when it is done.

You do some amazing things, those look great.

Next on the list was dealing with the Holley Sniper. One of the biggest issues is idle, it would not idle properly and die at when I was driving and brought the car to a stop. 
I had read about the Sniper RF / wiring issues, so I address that first. The wiring was a mess, and not done properly. I found wires twisted together, and wrapped in tape, bad crimp connectors, and sloppy wiring. I decided to pull everything out under the hood and rewire.
I also did the math on the amps that Holley Sniper pulled,  upgraded stereo, and vintage air. I upgraded the alternator with a 1 wire, and two high amp fuses. 
One for the alternator, the other for the audio equipment in the trunk. Also the main power and grounds to the battery and alternator where not large enough, and where in bad shape.
From what I've read on the Holley EFI forum you need to do a few things for the Sniper. Proper grounding, direct +/- to battery, good shielded spark-plug wires. Also make sure wires are not crossing the spark-plug wires. I also the RF cable suppressors on the leads to the Sniper unit, can't hurt. 
Powermaster Street Alternators 577491 (black color) - Part Number: PWM-577491.
Bussmann AMG High-Amp Stud Mount Fuses AMG-175, Part Number: BSS-AMG175
Yarachel 50PCS RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3.5mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable
 

Mounted and waxed and they are pretty !
I even went ahead and trimmed the black pair just because .
I would like to make a pair this weekend but i dont know if i will have the time 

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

Not quite related to the mustang, but sort of. Getting my car trailer ready for some car show future events, installed the second battery and some charging and lighting hardware, also lighting control panel, LED lights all the way around the outside of the trailer and inside. A way to keep my wiring skills up to date. 
 

Today was more of the same. Media blasting and primer on parts. We also let the parts bask in the sun. Tomorrow hopefully we assemble again and get ready to weld. Josh has been doing an awesome job with the primer. Parts are turning out very nice!
 

I also include a few pictures of our water and oil removal systems. I have what is essentially a transmission cooler on the compressor that takes the hot wet air and cools it off. You can’t touch the copper tubing going into it as it is way too hot, but the pipe coming out is quite cool. Ambient, maybe a touch more. Works well. There is a water and oil separator that takes out the condensed water before passing the air into the tank. Also, I have a desiccant dryer that uses 5lbs of desiccant beads. It is for spraying or blasting only.

Welcome to 69stang.com. Looks like you definitely picked up a good looking project.  Looking forward to seeing it as you progress along on it.  Keep us posted on it.

Now that the car is cooling well, we decided to address a leak on the valve cover. The PO had told me that the guy he bought the car from had "Refreshed" the engine. Not sure what he his version of "refreshed" is, but to my surprise the heads are 2V, and not original to the car, but look good, and run well. 

Iam in North Austin. As for the "Problem Areas", the entire car is a bit of a basket case. It was obvious that the past owner did not know anything about Mustangs, first thing I did was rework the cooling system. 
It would not heat up past 160,  I found crud stuck in the T-stat, and no restrictor plate and incorrect T-stat for a Cleveland. So, I flushed the block, had the radiator boiled and tested, all new hoses and correct T-stat set up. I also bought the correct fan shroud for the car, installed a 7 blade fan and fan clutch used on the cobra Jet engine. Now that the car is warming up and cooling properly, I can focus on reworking the Holley Sniper and Fuel system. 
I had a hard time tracking down the proper fan clutch to use with the 7 blade fan I ordered the fan off of NPD. 
8600-12 FAN BLADE ASSY, 7 BLADE
8146-5 FAN SHROUD
Amazon:
Dorman 23733: Water Pump Stud Kit - 5/16-18 x 7/16 and 5/16-24 x 5/8 Overall Length of 1-1/4
Hayden Automotive 2747 Premium Fan Clutch