Boogerschnot

Thanks guys. I picked up my aod today!

Thanks guys. I picked up my aod today!

A 1992 complete 5.0 and AOD all for $300!! The guy selling it had another buyer lined up for the weekend who wanted the torque converter and parts from the tranny so I just picked it all up. I plan on using the AOD for my 69 along with some 4.10's in the rear and just selling the 5.0 motor for about $200 or maybe part it out and try to get more. If I can. The car had 60,000 miles supposedly and ran great, so the guy says. They did a body swap. He wrecked his manual, built up fox body, and then found the car that this was in just for the body, swapped his motor and trans into it and junked the wrecked car. Sold me this to get it out of his garage.

A 1992 complete 5.0 and AOD all for $300!! The guy selling it had another buyer lined up for the weekend who wanted the torque converter and parts from the tranny so I just picked it all up. I plan on using the AOD for my 69 along with some 4.10's in the rear and just selling the 5.0 motor for about $200 or maybe part it out and try to get more. If I can. The car had 60,000 miles supposedly and ran great, so the guy says. They did a body swap. He wrecked his manual, built up fox body, and then found the car that this was in just for the body, swapped his motor and trans into it and junked the wrecked car. Sold me this to get it out of his garage.

I keep reading in places that I can use the stock FMX flexplate for my AOD swap. Even one of the transmission shops specializing in the swap said so, but can I use the stock 5.0 torque converter from the donor car also? Will it bolt up to the FMX flexplate? The flexplate is a 28oz bal. 164 tooth plate. Just as it calls for, but is the converter mounting bolt pattern different between the two?

I keep reading in places that I can use the stock FMX flexplate for my AOD swap. Even one of the transmission shops specializing in the swap said so, but can I use the stock 5.0 torque converter from the donor car also? Will it bolt up to the FMX flexplate? The flexplate is a 28oz bal. 164 tooth plate. Just as it calls for, but is the converter mounting bolt pattern different between the two?

I think they will be a little on the small side too. Mine are 17x8 and 245 45 up front 255 45 in the back. and I like it a lot.

I think they will be a little on the small side too. Mine are 17x8 and 245 45 up front 255 45 in the back. and I like it a lot.

Thanks!

Ive been trying to find a good kit for electric door locks because i dont want to drill a hole in my new door pannels. Any suggestions? I plan on adding an alarm with a remote too.

...I used the Ron Francis retro kit. It took a little inginuity but I got it to work nicely.

The gap is about 1/4 inch. you dont notice unless you stare. And both mirrors are actually for a 68. I like the chrome better than the sport but in 69 they only made a passenger side chrome mirror. So i improvised with what I like.

http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp thats a good website with a tire comparator. my car domain.. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2665602 and then for the new tires: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7434

255 45 17 is just fine on the rear. Its actually a little small. I should have gone with a 255 50 or even 255 55 for the taller tire. I dont really like how the 275 40 looks, its too short. I like the tire to be taller.

when i get a chance ill put up a link of some good stuff.. im on my phone now

I was running some 235 55 17's on an 8 inch rim. it was about 27.7 inches tall I think.. find a tire size calculator and it will tell you. I liked the tall tire on the rear, but it was too skinny. So i went with 255 45's Its noticibly shorter but also wider.. so I see more of the tire in the well, where as the 235 was almost tucked into the q.p check out my car domain for pics of the 235's just do a search for otaiko7 or justin's mustang.

Thanks guys. Im already with you on the lowering. Ive got the original lowering plates that came with the grande suspension for the rear, and I am going to do a shelby drop, cut a coil and rebuild the entire front end in the next couple of months. Roller perches, new uca/lca's, sway bar, adjustable strut rods, roller idler arm and new end links/ball joints,, everything! Rich, if you get bored, I wouldnt mind the help. Ill probably do it at the navy hobby shop.

Got some new tires and did some waxing too. Tires are 245-45-27 up front and 255-45 in the back.

If you are going to replace the springs and want to go that far down you may as well go with the reverse eye. I put on mid eyes and 17's and still want to go down about 1.5-2 inches in the rear

You should check out the cougar eliminator style fiberglass hood. Its about 500 bones, but it looks awsome. Its about the same width as a boss scoop but not as tall and goofy looking. I have it and love it to death.

Its your car. Im kinda torn on this, I have toyed with the idea of EFI, but I dont know if I could actually do it. It does make a pretty cool car though.

Jim, If you are planning on changing all of the gaskets and seals (with a kit) you will need to pull the whole thing out. Because you have to glue the gaskets to the flappers after you clean them up and its just easier to put back together that way. And you can spray some paint on it too to make it fresh. I also had my entire dash out when I did this so it was way easier. I remember removing the defroster vent before taking it out though.

I know it was said before but you do need to ground the PCB using a wire to a screw at the middle of the pcb. And isnt the housing made of plastic or pot metal? so how would it ground to the dash using mounting screws? When I rewired my dash I traced every line in the PCB to be sure that the connector was pinned correctly. The book I had was wrong in reguards to what pin did what. And are you positive that you have the correct PCB for your application or wiring diagram that you are using. It may be wrong, in other words, you may thing that you are plugging it in to the corresponding sensor but you are not. and make sure your connector isnt upside down as you plug it into the board. It doesnt sound like the board/guages are the problem. unless they are not matched up correctly between the male and female plug.

Yea, its not bad at all. Just get a puller, and remove the balancer. Pick up a timing chain cover gasket kit, which will inclued the water pump gaskets and take it all apart. Make sure you get all of the water out of the engine before pulling the timing cover or you will get water in the oil. You could try to blow it out with pressurized air before removing your hoses and pump. Get some permatex. You will remove the timing cover (be sure to keep in mind which bolts go where) then cut the old oil pan gasket where it hangs out under the cover. Then clean everything well and put the new piece of gasket there with a good bit of rtv in the corners and a bead top and bottom or it will leak again. When you put the new oil seal into the cover you will have to tap it into place with a small hammer, just be sure the little coil spring retainer thing stays on the seal when you slide it back onto the crank. Also put lots of oil on the crank and the seal before sliding it on. When I built my motor I didnt oil the seal and it leaked everywhere. But it only took me about 40 minutes to change it out, so again, its not a bad job to do, and it will give you a chance to paint your cover and waterpump if they are ugly. In fact you could just paint the whole engine if you wanted.. afterall you will have all the hoses off. Just another one of those "while you are at it" things.. Good luck

why not just buy and build the 351 into a stroker.. 408 would be fun!