Boogerschnot

So the question is: Is the negative camber going to cause any problems other than me going through tires quicker than normal? And has anyone else had problems with the wheel rubbing with the 245-45 front tire? I forgot to add that I cut a half coil off the front springs plus the shelby drop to get this ride height. Ive thought about taking a cut off wheel and maybe a dolly and hammer to the inner valance to give it a little more room. not too sure yet. But the car does drive straight and feels a lot more solid on the road after the alignment.

I built the front suspension about a year ago, had it aligned to the shelby drop spec's on the daze cars website, which proved a little difficult because the camber really didnt want to be set to 0. The closest we got it was around -1* on both sides with the camber locking plates. Yesterday I had it re-aligned because I could totally see that the car was sitting knee knocked with way to much camber and it had been feeling really floaty and skiddish on the road. Every bump or ridge in the road felt horrible and would throw the car around alot. Plus I knew that after a year of driving the new bushings were probably starting to wear and had changed up the alignment. Well it did. Here are my specs from alignment Camber -1.6 left -1.5 right caster 2.2 left 2.4 right before was .4 left and -.9right yuck Toe .2* left .21 right before was -.37 on both sides Cross caber is -.1 cross caster -.2* total toe is .41* I posted this on another forum and thought "I should put it on the 69-70 specific forum, duhh) So hopefully that all makes sense. The problem I have and have had for a while is that when I turn full right my left front tire scrubs the inside of the bottom of the valance. You can visibly see that the wheel is foward in the wheel well but it seems that way on both sides. And another thing is that it took two different type locking camber plates to get the same measurement on both sides. PO must have gotten hit at some point and threw everything off. Here are a couple of pics.

I would take the alternator in to your local parts house and have it tested, If it works then check your wiring and possibly get another new regulator. I went through a phase where I was killing regulators left and right every few months. Replaced the alternator and regulator and then it was good.

I dont think it will really matter. Im pretty sure I used a semi gloss on mine. I got the plastic spray paint krylon. It turned out nice.

I found a slight leak that let all the fluid out and then going down a hill with no fluid over the christmas master cylinder holes it sucked in some air and he lost all pressure in the pedal. Right front hose was loose. It sucks that if I were driving I would have used the e brake.

I found a slight leak that let all the fluid out and then going down a hill with no fluid over the christmas master cylinder holes it sucked in some air and he lost all pressure in the pedal. Right front hose was loose. It sucks that if I were driving I would have used the e brake.

All I had was liability. Learned a lesson on that one, can anyone suggest a good classic insurance company.

All I had was liability. Learned a lesson on that one, can anyone suggest a good classic insurance company.

I dont plan on taking the clear off just scuffing it to allow adhesion.

I dont plan on taking the clear off just scuffing it to allow adhesion.

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short) I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille. I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again. I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short) I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille. I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again. I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

I have one and would definately on recommend building your own. The ron morris mount i got is all up in the way of the exhaust. I had to modify it to fit the exhaust.

Sorry.. stupid fat fingers on this phone...

I recently took a ride in a buds 68 with only stock sound deadner and we both agreed that my car feels a lot more solid. I lined the floor, firewall, roof truck and most of the sail pannels in the rear with deamplifier sound deadner. Then i dropped a sheet in each door, and added all new interior it makes a world of difference, really. The car seems so much more solid with it. And athe lot quietermore inside even withput the flowmastercar 40's out thethe rear . I drove this car with zero interior except for the drivers and back seat for almost a year and had no exhaust after the down pipe that joined the stock manifolds under the passenger side floorboard. It sucked. The rear spring s made a huge difference in feel also. No more bounciness. The deadner cost about $300a total.. but way worth it.

I set mine in drive with the front tires against the curb.

I wish you were in Hawaii. I would take it in a heartbeat..

I had picked up a used repo hood for my car during the build and did not like the weakness of the hood. It tended to flex a lot and I ended up going with the fiberglass hood, which I love. If it were me, I would pick up a original tooling hood, but then again I went with fiberglass.. lol

Im already making one to go in the center of my dash,, just need to fiberglass it. I used cardboard cut into the basic shape I wanted and then aluminum foil over that to get the contours and overall shape,, Im going to fiberglass over it using chop mat and then finish it. Cut the holes I need for the gauges and paint.. Should work out well.. I hope at least.

I used a 93 5.0 AOD and its been great to me so far. Look in the how to section here.. Thats pretty much where I started. Its a pretty cheap and easy swap to make. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=63

Yea. I killed a set of 4.11 gears on my first try. Didnt make it three blocks before it locked up on me. Ive got a few build pages saved that i will try to get back and post for you.

Looks good to me. I used s/s sheet metal screws.

Get some sound deadner and line that pannel back there between you and the compressor and then put a couple of pieces up in the sail pannels too since you have that pannel off. It will cut down soooo much noise.

I used some of the rope rubber sealant stuff that you can use to seal your windshield in or for sealilng the gas tank. Its found in the back of Mustangs unlimited catalog I think. just a non drying type of putty caulk and it worked great. I used it on the scoops, bumpter bolts for the rear end, and in the holes that mount the rear window trim on my coupe. Seems to be working great.