Boogerschnot
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Posts posted by Boogerschnot
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Just realized you already have an RPM intake, why not just go with the RPM cam and then at a later time you can add the heads and make some good power.. Look up the RPM 351cam top end kits, i believe they put out over 350 horses or so..
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Before you get into the piston purchasing you need to see weather or not your bore is still true. Most folks order pistons after having the block checked that way they know if the cylinders need to be cleaned up, which opens them up a little.. hence: 4inch to a 4.030.. in my rebuild I only had to go to. 020 over because the walls were in good shape. If you want to build this in steps, I would start with the cam and intake.. then heads (because of cost) then build the bottom end. Or start with the bottom end and just build the motor in one shot.
But it does no good ordering pistons if you dont know what your block will clean up to.. it may already be at. O30 over thanks to a previous owner.
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If those are the same as the newer 05 and up wheels in backspacing you may need the 1.5 inch spacer up front because of the rub on the upper ball joint. I did. 1.25 worked well in the rear.
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I used a dynamat type product called de-amplifier, which was cheaper and has helped out a whole lot. Did the entire interior floor from trunk to top of firewall, roof, and a sheet in the middle of each door. Took a little while to roll down but probably just as long as mixing, masking, and spraying in something. Especially if the interior is already stripped. Made a huge difference in sound and heat.. with no carpet in the car i used to melt grocery bags to the bare floor over a 5 mile drive.. put a sheet or spray into your sail pannels and rear upper quarters it makes a huge sound difference being such a big solid hollow piece of metal..
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Merry Christmas!!!! Polca dot, polca dot, polca dot afro!!!!
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Thanks gor the hood latch and support! Just in time for Christmas!
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Nice! How about the time I let a buddy drive the car to the bank and it came back without a front end.. "I cant believe you let him drive your car!!!" I cant believe I did either..
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I would say go for the ones rawlinss just put up and then buy two foam planks from your local upholstery store and a set of rear covers like i did and cut to fit. I wish I would have gone the racing seat route, I hate that my stock seats dont recline.. and they sit soo damn high too. One of these days Ill do it again and lower my seat pans.
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So I have installed 93 AOD onto my 351w and ended up having an issue with the AOD not kicking down into 2nd or 3rd from od. I used the stock FMX flexplate, aod converter from the 93 gt mustang and the aod. I used the lokar TV cable and adjusted it by taking any slack out of the cable at idle so that any movement of the throttle gave me movement of the TV lever on the AOD. I also had to flip the aod lever to point down during the install.
Well I have allways had the problem that the AOD would not kick down from OD to 3rd or 2nd gear, until today. I removed the lokar spring that came with the TV adapter cable and then added my own bracket with a lightweight spring from orieleys to pull the tv back to its stop. The lokar spring was causing a binding that didnt allow the lever to travel all the way to its kick down point.
Took the car and family for some slurpies and for the first time, the thing shifted from OD to 2nd gear at about 35mph and took off.. I was pretty excited!
So for anyone googeling this.. aod doesnt shift from od .. aod doesnt kick down .. aod dont kick down from 4th gear ..
Hopefully this helps.
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Jack up the front end and see if you can move the wheel in a front and back motion. Also look to see if your lower control arm is rubbing metal to metal or is unevenly spaced as it sits in the mount. There should be some rubber on each side of the LCA and your strut rod bushing shouldnt be all pancaked and squished out horribly around the mount.
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Are you sure its not a pinging that you are hearing? Maybe try backing down your timing a tad, if it goes away you were detonating.
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I just realized that I listed that I was running 245 55.. The Fronts are 245 45's rears are 255 50's
My wheel openings are good I just think I need to get the A arm shimmed out a little.. will see I guess
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The bucket that keeps getting referred to is the headlight bucket (front end of the fender) not the bowl or dish that the light sits into. Light is held in by chrome trim, the n the bowl is held into the bucket by the spring and two adjusting screws.
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Its been at least 2 years since doing my suspension upgrade and I have found that my wheel does seem to sit a little farther forward in the well giving me some rubbing issues at about 3/4 wheel turn. So i dont get the full wheel movement.
Anywat, I just wanted to fin out how many others are having the same issue after a shelby drop. I run 1.5 inch spacers up front with 05 GT wheels with 245*55 17's. I am going to try putting a couple shims in the front end of my upper A arms to try to solve my geometry issues. Any other suggestions would be great.
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Where are you located?
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Agreed, and the want for the larger wheels and taller tires up front didnt help me out.
Ill try the shims as soon as i can. (Waiting to buy a house, stuck in a studio hotel for another month.) t
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Really? If shims were not oem, where did all the shims come from on the early Mustangs my brothers and I have owned? None of them had the Shelby drop, I did the drop on my current 69 and the template I used dropped the holes vertical, not at 90* and forward. If alignment shops added the shims on every Mustang for correct specs, maybe the factory should have included them.Im not too sure if you are trying to argue with me or agree with me, but the 69 and up models did not require shims on the upper a arms because of the lower adjustable eccentric. I got my drop template from John at opentracker and I dont think he would steer me wrong. And its not the factory's problem that alignment shop added the shims, they just didnt, and usually dont, know their ass from a hole in the ground. But thanks for the heads up, I know the shops do some shoddy things sometimes.
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Yea, I know the towers had some issues due to the stress cracks at the rear, but they were small and weld-able. I added a monte carlo bar and a one piece shock tower brace to hold her together. I did have to set the front end on stands to spread the towers though to get the bar in. I kind of figure the front might be a little off, but it seems the same on both ends and I do see where it looks like someone made a repair of the strut braces where the rod attaches to the rad support and crossmember. It doesnt bother me though, the car has allways driven straight and sat level. Just the caster thats a pain in the butt and rubbing on the front end.
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That seems to be what everyone is suggesting even though shims were not required for our cars in stock form. I think it has to do with the shelby drop.
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But didnt that put your caster way off?
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I replaced the front suspension with open tracker parts, upper and lower arms, 1 inch sway bar, roller spring perches, lower eccentrics, stock springs cut 1/4 coil, shelby drop, and 1.5 inch spacers up front 1.25 in the back.
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So the question is: Is the negative camber going to cause any problems other than me going through tires quicker than normal? And has anyone else had problems with the wheel rubbing with the 245-45 front tire?
I forgot to add that I cut a half coil off the front springs plus the shelby drop to get this ride height.
Ive thought about taking a cut off wheel and maybe a dolly and hammer to the inner valance to give it a little more room. not too sure yet.
But the car does drive straight and feels a lot more solid on the road after the alignment.
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I built the front suspension about a year ago, had it aligned to the shelby drop spec's on the daze cars website, which proved a little difficult because the camber really didnt want to be set to 0. The closest we got it was around -1* on both sides with the camber locking plates.
Yesterday I had it re-aligned because I could totally see that the car was sitting knee knocked with way to much camber and it had been feeling really floaty and skiddish on the road. Every bump or ridge in the road felt horrible and would throw the car around alot. Plus I knew that after a year of driving the new bushings were probably starting to wear and had changed up the alignment.
Well it did. Here are my specs from alignment
Camber -1.6 left -1.5 right
caster 2.2 left 2.4 right before was .4 left and -.9right yuck
Toe .2* left .21 right before was -.37 on both sides
Cross caber is -.1
cross caster -.2*
total toe is .41*
I posted this on another forum and thought "I should put it on the 69-70 specific forum, duhh)
So hopefully that all makes sense. The problem I have and have had for a while is that when I turn full right my left front tire scrubs the inside of the bottom of the valance. You can visibly see that the wheel is foward in the wheel well but it seems that way on both sides. And another thing is that it took two different type locking camber plates to get the same measurement on both sides.
PO must have gotten hit at some point and threw everything off. Here are a couple of pics.
Question re: False Vents
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
They should already be on your vents. Have you removed them from your car yet?