Boogerschnot

I have a Holley Street Avenger 670 on my 351 with a mild Edl. Performer cam and intake and I like the way it runs. It was fairly easy to tune, and has enough room to grow if (when) I decide to go back into the motor for a little more power.

I replaced my idler arm about a year after i did the rest of the suspension and was amazes at how much of a difference in bump steer (feeling) it made. The car was pretty jumpy before when I his rough spots.

Looks good! You may need to check that hood though like the guys stated.

Good job. Nice touch.

Ill give it a look. Thanks.

So when I installed the AOD in my car I reused the fox body steel trans cooler lines. I just rebent them, haphazardly, and sent them through the engine bay.. to say the least, its an eyesore. What would be a good option for a nice looking cooling line setup. It doesnt need to be stainless, or expensive. Just functional and nice looking. I may run and external trans cooler in front of the radiator at some point, so i want toleave options open. Thanks.

Spacers can be found on ebay for cheap.. I went that route when looking for wheels.. Mustang take-off's are pretty busy heap and well worth it.

Depends on what you like. O went with an AOD.. if your C4 is still strong, then might as well go with that.

if those are the 17x8 wheels you will need a 1.5 inch spacer up front and a 1.25 in the rear. You could go with 1.5 in the rear too but it may leave you with a short stud thread to lock the wheel down with. I run the 05 GT wheels, which should be the same size as the ones you found, measure them up and see what the wheel width is just to be sure.

Maybe your springs are mismatched.. ? Maybe..

Finally got off my butt and changed the idler arm on my car.. Picked up from Opentracker.. This made a very noticable difference in road manners with my car. It used to be very jumpy on the road.. especially on a bumpy road, it would jut side to side. But now it is much better. That bushing must have been shot.

Awesome! And with factory air! Get her cleaned up and put up some pics of the motor. Of course, try to talk the gut down by about 700the and see what happens.

Does this kit change your track width at all? I think I know where Im getting my rear brakes now!

Yea, I am running KYB gas A just shocks.. I think i might go with something a little less firm next time around.

This is a picture from after the half coil was cut out. Forgot to mention that I did the shelby drop too.

I have 4.5 leaf mid eye Springs. 255 50 17's. I wouldn't mind if my car actually rode a little better. The front springs are stock but the rear springs are pretty stiff with the 4.5 leaf. I cut a half coil out of the front springs. My signature picture is before I cut the coil out.

Thanks guys. Ill get out there and just chase the fluid back from the block to the rear. Wherever I dont have fluid should tell me where the problem lies. Hopefully its the rear block on the 9 inch.

Front discs.. rear drums.

Maybe tomorrow Ill check the final output of the distribution block.. I know that is the next logical step, I think Im just lazy. I do have a new rubber line for where the rear end connects to the hard line at the 9inch. Ill check the dist. block and then the rear end to be sure its not a blockage. It still bothers me that this type of block and the reason for having it is not listed in the haynes manual, or in most writeups found anywhere..

Just get rid of the points and go electronic.. Get the pertronics. Its a magnet type and works very well.. do a google search. You wont be dissapointed.

What do i have here?

So, I thought my master cylinder was bad.. Replaced it using the lifetime warranty through Oriley's. have pressure at the MC now but am trying to figure out what is going on with my differential pressure switch and my rear brakes getting no pressure. The day I decided to change a rear cylinder, I had locked up the rear wheels in a panic stop and when I got home the brakes felt a little more funny than usual. I found some fluid on my right rear wheel and then a leaking cylinder. Replaced it and when I tried to bleed it I found that I was getting no pressure or very little fluid movement at the rear wheels. The fronts work great. I am reading that some cars have a combination differential pressure switch/valve, and some may have a residual pressure valve for keeping pressure at the rear discs? My diff pressure switch looks like nothing in the haynes manual, or any other write up's. Please look at the pics and tell me what I have going on. I would love for my rear brakes to work again. thank god Im not using it as a daily driver now days. My little interpretation..

Sounds like you need to pull it and have it re-checked. What brand gears did you use? Some gears are made better than othes. If it was set up properly using the reccomendation of the gear manufactor, it shouldnt make noise. Pull the chunk and take a look.. i know it sucks but if he didnt set up properly you could ruin the gears, bearings, seals, everything.. ask me how i know.. lol

Damn spellcorrect on my phone.... PITA.

If you figure out the 94new brake handle, let me know.. I used a 93dynamat console, cut the inner braces and reshaped it with a heat gun. The guy i got it from gave me the brake handle and intermediate cable /connector too. Just need to figure it out. Heres the console. I really just wanted something to put a drink in and reat my arm on.