Boogerschnot

It came on the Grande' part of the cushy rear suspension. I had it on mine when I took out the original suspension. The thing is.. If you put it back in with new springs it will lower the car. Mine was lowered too much, so I took it back out. Also, keep in mine that if you remove it, your original U-bolts may not be threaded far enough up to tighten the plate to the rear end.

I say use the reducer and stick with what you have. Nothing wrong with that.

I sold mine when I did the AOD swap. Kind of wished I had kept it, but lugging it around was quite a chore. If you think you might use it,, hold onto it. If not. Sell it. I let mine go for $150 when we were in Hawaii. Im sure there werent as many out there as there are here on the mainland.

I drive a lot for work, and am allways trying to find a car that I think has a great color. Found my current color that way,, and now Im looking for just the right red for the 67 i picked up.

Sounds like your pump is shot..

My grande didnt have wood grain trim in the interior rear pannel? Hmm.. Ive never seen that before. I really dont think there is any difference between the two..

I read somewhere that you could just use a crap load of washers, space the wheel out to where it fits, then measure the thinkness of your washers.. Then you can order the spacer that you need. I run 1.5 inch spacers on the front of my car with 17x8 mustang 05 GT wheels.. 1.25 on the rear. The 1.25 didnt have the wheel clearing the upper a arm.. but just barely. In my opinion the rear looks better with the 1.5 also, but I didnt feel like buying another set.

I think Ill just stick with the 4.5 leaf mid eyes.. I do have stock lowering blocks from the grande' if I wanted to go lower, but I think that the 3.70 trac lock rear will be fine for me..

Thanks!

Sounds good.. ill get the cooling issue settled with a new radiator and ho for it!

I forgot that I do have the roller perch from rosehill. Thinking about the strut rod though I havent commited to that fully. And gas a just kyb's.

I used a lift plate from the local parts stor.. $12.. bolts to the intake in place of the carb and you hook the hoist on through one of the three holes.

I would likely trade for a manual steering adapter too..

Considering trading my Power Steering setup for a Manual steering setup.. If you have a decent manual steering car, and are thinking about going with power steering, let me know. My setup is in decent shape.. It works, but leaks a little from the control valve. Just thinking... PM me.

Very Very Very tempting. You wouldnt happen to need a 9 inch 3rd member with 3.00 gears would you? :) And some original kick pannels? Or some 2003 15inch Expedition wheels? Maybe a couple of kids.. 8 and 10 years old.. or a fairly crazy 8 month old Belgium Shepherd? LOL.. I have to try.

2005 GT Wheels (Same BS as 2005-2012 i think) 245/45/17 front .. 255/50/17 rear 1/2 coil cut off front springs with shelby drop 4.5 leaf gat mid eye in rear. and yes.. that was a hot wheels logo airbrushed on the car in place of "Mustang" sad day when It got wrecked and I had to put on new fenders

Wow! Where was this two weeks ago.. Ive still got a 4300 sitting on the bench in the garage.. Im tempted to pull it apart again..

Yep.. I agree with lindenbruce. Time for some maintenance.

OH, and Im not looking to beat track records.. Just to have some fun at cone smashing events really..

Ive been tossing around the idea of actually doing something fun with my car besides just cruising on the weekends. Well, now the wife has a 67 fastback 289 A code, very original and in need of a paint job, but in awesome shape, so I figured im ready to have some fun with my car. Im looking at autocross setup or pro-touring type of stuff. I need bigger brakes, and possibly a tighter transmission. The AOD will hold up though, at least I think. Ive got 3.73's in the rear, but will probably blow them up at some point due to me being a cheap skate in the beginning. They are noisy cheap gears.. Someday Ill replace them with something good. Im getting a champion radiator, 3 row with trans cooler to take care of the engine. What else will I need to keep this thing planted.. So far: Grab a track 4.5 leafs, shelby drop and roller perches, along with all new upper/lower a arms from opentracker, and a 1 inch front sway bar. What do you think?

I run 1.5 up front and 1.25 in the rear. The wheels are 2005 GT wheels.

The TV is really not that big of an issue, just remember more pressure/pull is better. You get it moving 1/1 without bottoming out at WOT. As long as you actually use it, and adjust it for about 6psi at idle you are good. The rest is feel. I also took my car for a spin yesterday and came up with about 22500-2300 RPM with the 255/50/17 and 3.70 rear at 65.

Your AOD will fit easily. Are you balanced for the 84 block or for the C-4/c-6 you are using now? If you already have the trans I would give it a shot. If you want, I could send you my old FMX crossmember and you could modify that one for a pretty cheap price. IF you have the extra crossmember I would go for it, I wish I would have saved the money and poorly fitting aggravation of my aftermarket mount. I used my stock rubber mount on the aftermarket cross member. I also modified my shift linkage to work. I would have to take a pic of it for you, because I cant remember exactly what I did. But it took about an hour and I welded a stud to one end for the link. I run 3.73's and turn about 2000rpm (not sure how accurate my Tach is, its a cheapo) at 65-70 with a 255/50/17 wheel.

Nice car! The AOD swap is a piece of cake. I wouldnt trust a stocker behind your 331 though. I called gear venders last week and you arent kidding.. Might as well sell an arm and a leg for a OD unit. Look into picking up one locally and building it if you think you can tackle it. I'm scared of the inside of transmissions, but would probably try it with the right info. If not, you could pick one up for cheap and have it built, or just get one thats already built up. Mine is totally stock, but my 351w is fairly mild, definately under 300hp. I just read in a few places that the rebuild is really not hard. They say to get the video, and use a haynes/chilton manual to help out. Dont forget the lokar TV cable, tranny lines, a flexplate from a FMX (or the swap plate listed in any of the parts magazines) and either the stock, or a custom torque converter. Cross member for the AOD, and possibly about an inch off of your driveshaft. I love mine, you will too. Then change up your rear gears for a 3.70-4.11 and go cruise.

No motor allways takes away from what you can expect to sell it for. Especially with a coupe. Not a bad price, but I got mine in bbetter shape with a motor that ran but needed rebuild for $1200.