Trinitys

I think any pump would work. Why not just replace your stock pump with another stock pump?  
 
you could go with a GM type 2 either with tank on the pump or one that’s remote mounted but then your messing with brackets, adapting hoses etc. 
 
here’s a picture of a remote mounted tank GM type 2 on my buddy f100
 
 

I figured I’d check in on the site and haven’t posted in awhile. I’ve been busy though.
 
The mustang is still running good, replaced shocks and tires a few months ago. Still drive it regularly. 
 
I just finished my 68 f100 build. 351w, fitech, 4r70w crownvic front end, explorer 8.8 rear. It turned out better than I could have imagined. I post a lot on my Instagram @ericmreimer 

I figured I’d check in on the site and haven’t posted in awhile. I’ve been busy though.
 
The mustang is still running good, replaced shocks and tires a few months ago. Still drive it regularly. 
 
I just finished my 68 f100 build. 351w, fitech, 4r70w crownvic front end, explorer 8.8 rear. It turned out better than I could have imagined. I post a lot on my Instagram @ericmreimer 

I figured I’d check in on the site and haven’t posted in awhile. I’ve been busy though.
 
The mustang is still running good, replaced shocks and tires a few months ago. Still drive it regularly. 
 
I just finished my 68 f100 build. 351w, fitech, 4r70w crownvic front end, explorer 8.8 rear. It turned out better than I could have imagined. I post a lot on my Instagram @ericmreimer 

Just wanted to check in. I poke my head in on occasion but stay busy on the truck groups. 
Anyway I still have the 69 Grande. She lives in the garage. 
The current project is a 68 f100. Crown Vic front suspension, explorer rear, efi 351w, 4r70w. Building the motor right now. 
Anyway, here’s some pics. 
Check out my Instagram @ericmreimer
 

Just wanted to check in. I poke my head in on occasion but stay busy on the truck groups. 
Anyway I still have the 69 Grande. She lives in the garage. 
The current project is a 68 f100. Crown Vic front suspension, explorer rear, efi 351w, 4r70w. Building the motor right now. 
Anyway, here’s some pics. 
Check out my Instagram @ericmreimer
 

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum.

If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel.

Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions.

This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it.


Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

sorry it rook so long.....didn't see this til today.
 
here you go..

For the first time in 9 years of living in Texas....I've finally driven my car to work. It used to be my daily out in San Diego buy it was also only 4 miles to work. Here i drive 37 miles each direction in  Texas traffic/heat to downtown Houston. So being a cooler day and lighter traffic (good Friday) I decided it was time. Drove great....a bit of lingering issues i need to address but nothing major. Its good to get it out and get miles on it for sure! The AOD sure is nice on the highway...one of the best mods yet!! 

Vendors have always been a sore subject on where the the line gets crossed between being helpful and just selling stuff. So far TCP has contributed a great deal and provided knowledge that's sometimes much needed. Common sense tells you his post will be biased because this guys function is customer out reach.
 
I personally don't see an issue with vendors participating, in the knowledge sharing aspect of these forums as long as they don't start threads to drum attention or spam with blatant sales posts. I haven't seen that yet. In respects, some forum members on this and other forums who have grown to building a business from our hobbies do the same thing. They get sales based on their interaction with forum members. Randall's Rack, DAZE's cars, open tracker are all examples of people who, at one point just were forum members trying to share knowledge...and still do but also have a financial investment along with it. The forums helped build their business. They do it for the love of the hobby but really it's the same thing with TCP, they're just a larger company. So do we cut all vendors out or do we do it selectively? I say, if the vendor loves the hobby and contributes to the forum, we let them be. When it evolves into spam, we give notice.

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum.

If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel.

Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions.

This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it.


Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

RE Tire Sidewall: Barnett468 speaks the truth.  While the lower profile tires provide more predictable handling they do so at the sacrifice of ride compliance.  They transmit more noise, vibration, and harshness (commonly referred to as NVH) than a taller sidewall simply because they are much stiffer.  I like to think about the tire as another spring. Because it is a shorter spring it has to be stiffer to keep from bottoming out whereas a longer spring can be softer to absorb impacts over a greater distance.
 
Most new cars have fairly low profile tires, so I think we're kind of used to it at this point.  Granted, there's a big difference between handling like a new Mustang and a new Camry.  Thank God!
 
 
On a separate note: Yep, I'm here to talk about Total Control Products. Ya got me. :-) But I'm also here to help make sure that people get the parts they need and that they know how they work. And, more often than not, to dispel rumors and incorrect information. The average car guy can tell you all about the benefits of one cam vs another but doesn't know a whole lot about suspension.  I'm kind of the opposite.  I'm the last guy you want helping to build your engine, but I can help you tune the chassis package.
 
FVike told me about this forum when he called about fixing his Sportsroof a couple years ago. I stop in now and then to see how things are going on his build, and a couple others. Not nearly as often as I would like. 
 
I only field a handful of sales calls a day.  The rest of the time I spend answering tech emails, running our Facebook pages, and cruising the forums for questions and trying to provide some tech insight. Sorry if I've stepped on any toes in the process.

there are plenty of kits but really at the end of the day it will be a lot of time and money to get it to feel like a new car. It all really depends on you budget and capabilities.
 
TCP (Total Control Products)is the fromt end I'll be using on mine. It's bolt in.
 
There are also kits that require fabrication such as removing the shock towers and welding in a new front setup.
 
What's your budget and capabilities?

ur making me miss my old Torque thrust wheels... lol Im thinking of buying a new set and have them painted solid black...

Looking good! I've been researching radiator/electric fan combos recently. I know my car gets hot. Older 20" stock style radiator.
 
At some point, I'll be installing either this or classic auto air. I have a spare AC lower dash that will get installed and the center dash vent. When I get a new dash pad, I'll install an AC dash. Then when I install the system, my plan is to use all factory vents. Based on what you did on yours, you think that would work well?

oh and stay away from urethane strut rod bushings if you decide to go with them! just use rubber bushings. harder bushings will put stress on the strut rod and eventually it could snap. I know from first hand experience. 

Telling you if you should do them yourself is a real hard question to answer. i dont know you, your skills, your shop, your tools or experiences.....
 
Here's the deal. anyone can rebuild the suspension in reality....there is no special skills needed, no rocket sciance. Just some basic info and guideline you need to pay attention to. I did my brothers '67 when I was 15. is it easy? Well that depends on your skills, tools and work are etc. 
 
Here is an example of a decent starter kit that will give you what you need for a basic suspension job.
https://www.mustangsplus.com/1967-1973-Mustang-Front-Suspension-Kit-Grab-A-Trak-R.html
 
This kit will give you all new bushings to bring your car back you a slightly beefed up version of your original suspension. It's $350 bucks. it's completely bolt on and only requires a couple cheap or rent-able special tools. Internal spring compressor mostly. If you spend a weekend on this, it can be dont by yourself or with a buddy. I'm actually about to do another '67 in a couple weeks with a friend. after everything is bolted up, have it towed to an alignment shop. 
 
here, watch this video to give yourself an idea of what it takes. we are here to help you through this.  

 
 
EDIT...
heres another (better) video. 

thats a greeat point actually! 
 
You could go you a place like break check or NTB (if you have them there) and have them give you an inspection and quote it out. At least that way you'd have a starting point. 

Long time no see Trinitys, glad you're still enjoying the Grande!