det0326

the fuse block and green piece on the drivers side firewall plugs together. If u remove the bolt in the center and release a couple of clips on the green piece it will unplug. The larger pin on mine was burned and had to replace with new pins. I have also found problems where the wires are riveted to the conductor bars on the fuse block.   

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.  

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.  

Went with Mach1drivers suggestion, helical gears. I went with the 3:50s

Just make sure you don't dimple the roof with too long of a bolt. 

Lot of people that own sportsroof cars may not ever sat in the back seat. I know when the guy came to look at mine that bought it, I sat in the back because he and his son were up front, I had to almost lay down to ride back there. The roof comes down back there and head room disappears.  

To me, that clip looks like the one that holds the brake pedal shaft in place. 

For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?
Dakota has DIM GRD and DIM SIG inputs and they sell a 10k pot to dim the display. Keep in mind that the ash tray, heater, radio, and clock lights are still on the light switch dimmer, have a different power source and fuse, so the two circuits need to be separate. I've contemplated machining a shaft for the light switch to interface with the Dakota dimmer in some Rube Goldberg contraption. That would be a fun little project.

Hey John
A cam grind has a specific RPM power band. The stall converter allows u to hold brake or trans brake in some cases to reach the lower end of that RPM band so that u are already in your specific RPM band when u release trans brake. Unless u are racing u will not know the difference with the 2800 stall. Stall converters are streetable up to around 3500 the only thing the stall converter may do is maybe use a tad more fuel but with 525HP I don't think u would notice that either.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.  

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

You will have to have the torque box out to remove the floor support and the floor needs to be out to do any of it ,but yes ,support the frame rails and the rockers it is best to have atleast 8 supports / jack stands ,frame rails ,in the front each side at the rear of the frame rail just before the torque box the rocker just behind the torque box and either the rear of the rocker or the end of the rear frame rail 

As nice as your car looks I personally would not race it, I would be treating it like a baby. If you never intend to race or do any mud slinging an open rear would be my choice. If you ever want to race again take the 411 and build a race car around it. 

Thanks for warm welcome. 
Losing a wife of 33 years brought me down some horrible roads, but through it all I held onto the Mustang. Took it out a few times last Summer. I would love to go on cruises but the 4:11’s are killing me and makes for an uncomfortable ride. 
 
I understand the exhaust drone, but at a lower rpm I can tolerate it.
So, are you guys thinking more towards the 3:50s vs. 3:73.  I don’t think 3:73 is too far from 4:11s
Thanks again!

Welcome back prayers! You certainly have one of the better looking 69s. I was happy with 3.50s when I had an aod in it. I currently have a .78 OD and 3.25 which I also like.

I was  on facebook yesterday and there's a guy on a mustang forum that was selling two 2 spoke steering wheels for 68/69. Wanted $75 for both of them. I never sent you the link because I knew you had already bought the parts. That's the way it goes once u buy something u always find a better deal. 

Hello again, and dang I love that color. An AOD overdrive gear ratio is 0.67:1? Many people prefer a 3.5:1 rear end. Play with a calculator like this to give you an idea:
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing. 

Hello prayers hope all is well and welcome back. Most all the AOD's from factory had a 355 or 373. I had a 373 in my 69 with AOD and it ran around 2500 rpms at about 60mph. A drone is usually caused by your muffler/exhaust system the higher the rpm's just amplifies it so you may want to look into that as well.

Didn't Ol' Henry say that if you think you can't do it, you're right?
GO FOR IT DAVE

Who doesn't like a walk around? Especially of such a cool car as yours. What color red is that? It sure looks good. BTW, you're 75? I guess I expect cats older than me to be old and crabby.  :)

Thanks Bob. That red paint came from a place called SPI down the road from me in Blairsville Ga. He mostly sold primers and clearcoat. At the time I purchased the paint from him he only had white, black and three shades of red the one I got was simply dark red. I sold that car a while back to a guy out in your area, somewhere in Bakersfield. You may see it at some car shows in your area. I have regretted selling it a 1000 times. Yes I am 75, my son and I restored a 70 Chevelle after I restored the Mach 1 and I have been debating if I have enough time left to do another Mustang, I love those 69's. 

One place I worked, I was called the engineer liaison, it was my job to make  new designs to work in the shop before being released to the customer. Needless to say I had a close relationship with the Engineers. Have to say they were the best bunch of guys I have worked with.  
 

I guess my mind doesn't work like an engineer's mind at Ford. Why would they design different horn parts for a two and three spoke wheel? The horn doesn't know how many spokes are on the wheel. 

Tried to find a short video but couldn't, I know how u guys hate walk arounds. This is the only one I could find with it running. This will give u an idea of how those Dynomax mufflers sound.
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