det0326

I don't get many hits on my post either, I don't think they love us

nice job. beautiful car and color

I don't get many hits on my post either, I don't think they love us

You are correct.  The fatter pink wire is the resistor wire and smaller one connected to ignition switch with it goes to regulator. Some people use this wire for a switched 12v that has switched to a one wire alt or an alt with internal regulator. Would not  use it tho if u still have OEM alt and reg setup.

Resistors is all about load. No load on the resistor wire it will read the full source  voltage, unlike a voltage regulator that will give you a Constance voltage.

I envy you guys who have the talent to do the hood black out on these 69 Mach 1s. I didn't think I had the skill or patience to do it correctly, so I just painted the entire hood. Ya, I pussed out.

Can't help with wheel house but welcome to the forum. There is plenty around tho that can help' 

The only thing I could add is if your car's engine is pretty much stock making lot of vacuum, power assist will work fine. If not tho and making low vacuum  in my opinion u would be better off with manual discs. This is me been there done that thing

Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums?
I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc.
Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed.  You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install.  None of those problems switching to manual discs.
So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step.  Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
 
 

Hmm good point, don't know but will have to check that out. 
Thanks Bob

Well fixed perfect.
I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod,
the result is perfect pedal height great brakes.
so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter.
the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost .
he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master.
I will never really know.. but it is done.
I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help
 
thank..,sam
 thanks 

I do understand what you are saying but 3 inches is a lot. I don't see how it could be out of seat that far and still function. I wish I could help you Print Dad but without knowing what the repair shop did to it, it would be hard to say what the problem is. I think u are going to have to do what you don't won't to do and take it apart. I'm old too and hard for me to get under the dash of these old classics but I have found that taking the drivers seat out makes it easier.

from your video u posted that sure sounds like a timing/firing order issue.  It seems to retarded, have u tried advancing it a little?

Terry, U could also get a boat motor gas tank bulb to pump it up. LOL

No drop base. Can't remember now but seems like something on back of FiTech was in the way for a drop base. 

Have the ProFlo 4 on another project, not a Mustang. So far it runs perfect. It had a bad O2 sensor right out of the box, replaced with a new Bosch O2 sensor , hasn't  giving any trouble since. 

The only thing I have to add is I heard  Edelbrock sold their ProFlo line  to another company and the Tech support is not that good anymore.  I do not know if this is true or not but worth researching I guess.

The first thing I would check is the check valve where the rubber hose connects to booster. Also I had a vacuum booster once that leaked around the push rod shaft (the one between the booster and M/C} that caused the booster to function erratically sometime it sealed off and other times when you pushed the petal and released it wouldn't .

Dave I'd use a clay bar. It removed the over spray on the rest of my car, and much cheaper. 

The 8.8 rear end is an entirely different design than the vintage Ford rear that came with first generation Mustangs.  I believe the 8.8 was introduced sometime in the late 70's or early 80's.  It is not at all compatible with the earlier 8" or 9" design.

Terry, I think we may have talked about the one I used on another project before. I have no knowledge of using one on a Mustang but I can tell u that after we got this thing on the road the learning ability of it is awesome. The more u drive it the better it gets.

If I remember correctly that screw has to be in there. It completes the ground circuit on the printed film. I guess they didn't have a good way to get from point A to point B with printed circuit so they used the cluster housing to connect the two circuits.

Ya, spending some time now checking might save you some trouble later. I'd use a digital level at the rear torque box, Front rails at torque box, and the front of the front rails.

I think maybe your frame rail maybe twisted also. You probably need to try to determine if it is or not and if it is you may have to weld the tower to the frame rail with it sitting flush like it is suppose to be and then put a  comealong winch on it some how and pull it back where it belongs.

If my memory serves me right, the switch also activates the vacuum actuator on the first photo. So when switch is pressed by the lever of blend door 1" (activated  by the cable of hot-cold lever) the heater control valve closes and stops hot coolant going into the heater core. And at the same time the vacuum actuator closes the "blend door 2" and eliminates the air going "through" the heater core.