det0326

That's a neat and clean gas cap does it screw on and off? I can't seem to locate it on eBay what did you key in search bar? thanks

worse case it may have dissolved the o rings prayers1 talks about as he said you might want to rebuild anyway.

What kind of solvent? If it is just the old run of the mill shop solvent probably not. The kind I am referring to is not much more than kerosene. Anything stronger then I don't know. If the ports were open you may have got some grit or trash inside you may have to clean it out .

Yes your right did not realize a set was that cheap found some on eBay for $37 including shipping. I figured they would be like everything else for these cars about $200 or so. LOL

Has anyone every tried to polish the scratches/discoloration on the lenses of the instrument cluster? If so what did you use and how did it work out? Thanks Dave

Measure the resistance on the sending unit and see what it is? This would tell you if your sending unit is good or bad. MikeTyler may be exactly right but I though that I read somewhere that it is suppose to measure 10-14 ohms full and somewhere around 70-74 empty.

What rack upgrades are you guys doing? What do you think of the one that bolts on where the cross member bolts? What about bump steering that everyone is talking about with the conversion? thanks

I'm fairly new to the forum also and I'm sure you will find as I did that there is a huge wealth of knowledge on this forum. From what I know about transmissions is as always the manual whether it be 4 or 5 speed is just simply fun to drive. The Automatic overdrives over the FMX of course gives you lower 1st and 2nd with the advantage of overdrive to save fuel. IMO though with 500 HP who wants to save fuel? LOL

If you simply want to check the gauge, you could put low voltage such as a flashlight battery 1.5 volts to see if you get a deflection but be sure you have the polarity right or it will deflect in reverse and could cause your calibration to be off a bit. You said in an earlier post that you have 12 volts at pin 11 and you have ground to pin 8 so with everything connect like it is suppose to be you are not getting 12 volts at the input to the CVR. Well IMO there could only be 4 reasons 1. You have an open circuit from pin 11 to input of CVR 2. you have an open ground to the CVR which as Midlife stated is pin8 to the case of the CVR. 3. Your CVR is bad. 4 You could have something grounded somewhere on the output side of the CVR . You would think that if something was grounded on the output side of the CRV that you would smell smoke but I think that is why the wire at pin 11 is resistance protected. This is just my opinion I could be wrong.

Yes if you have instrument lights your ground should be OK. The reason you need this ground at the regulator too, as in all DC circuits is to simply complete the circuit back to the battery ground.

Midlife, do you happen to know the resistance on the wire that supplies the 12 volts? The diagram shows it as being a resistance wire, I have always wondered ? never thought to check it when I had one in front of me.

Its hard to believe all the units you have are bad but I guess its possible. One thing I would make sure of, is continuity from the wire side plug pin # 11 to the positive on the constant voltage regulator.

I went out and took a look at mine which is off the car and it appears that the fuel gauge hot side comes directly from the CVR so disconnecting the other gauges should not make any difference. How did you disconnect the other gauges, just took the printed circuit loose. If so did you insulate the connecting strips so they would not touch anything? Have you did the grounding the sending wire yet if so what did you find?

The diagram is not showing it that way but you never know how someone may have wired something in the past . I would check the terminal A at the switch for 12 volts and go from there.

It appears to me that the light blue or purple(hard to till) but it is the resistance wire #30 that comes from ignition switch to the CVR is the supply voltage and it connects to the A terminal of the switch. Check for 12 volts there.

Could it be that when you disconnected the other gauges that you also disconnected the power from the fuel gauge at another point? Have you checked all fuses to this circuit ?

Continuity is checked with the meter on the ohm's scale from the metal part of the sending unit to a good ground you should read zero resistance. If you have no voltage at the sending unit your next step would be to check the voltage at the CVR . If you have voltage to the input and no voltage from the output then CVR is probably bad. If you have voltage from the output of the CVR then check voltage at the fuel gauge if you have voltage at the fuel gauge then there could be a wire problem going to the sending unit. This is just a simple diagnosis of the voltage from the start to the finish and you can start any where you want to, myself I always start at the easiest place to get to and hope I find the problem without taking so much stuff apart.

You can simply take a volt meter and with the switch on check the voltage at the sender with the wire disconnected from the sender. I think it should be around 5 volts. If no voltage the problem is somewhere forward if you have voltage it could be the sender is bad . Be sure to check that the sending unit itself is grounded good to the tank . An easy way to do that is use an ohm meter and check that u have continuity from the metal part of the sending unit and a good ground somewhere.

Are you sure that the vacuum is present at the transmission? I have known the base plate of the carburetor or intake manifold(which ever it is connected to) to have a carbon like substance that blocks the vacuum. So with the car running at idle pull the hose to the modulator and see if vacuum is present.

I think the first thing I would do is check the wire at the sending unit for voltage I think it should have power not sure if it is full battery voltage or not but it should have power if not it could be a bad wire or maybe power not getting to the gauge at all. Of course the switch has to be on to check for voltage at the sending unit.

I guess there are a number of ways to do it but this is the way the factory did it in 69 and mine still looked good when I removed it but it also looked like there might have been some kind of coating over it and was just wondering what it might be. thanks for the replies

Hey all I have just finished leading the 1/4 and roof seam with 70/30 lead. Yes I took all the precautionary measures when doing this. My question is does anyone know if it is OK to apply a plastic filler over the lead or should it be epoxy primed before applying the plastic filler or is there another procedure that would be better? The leaded job is not that bad at all but it does require a little building as the file did do a little under cutting. thanks

As I said in my last post I have an original door that still has the inner beltline on it which will show the orientation, but it does not have the clip if it would help you I could take a picture of it. just let me know. Dave

I'm not 100% sure either. My old outer door glass seal did not have the clip or it is long gone. Any way my new ones does and looking at how the rubber/felt is formed on the old ones which are still on the door verses the new one it would put the clip toward the back and turned down. Hope this helps. Dave

thanks Buckeye and etel64 you guys were spot on. nice to have this wealth of information that's on this forum.