det0326

Yep go to keep SWMBO happy for sure.

Terry have u started your restoration?

I saw a three point installation one time where the guy mounted the retractor inside the interior quarter panel. made a slot in the panel with a grommet installed, the modification looked like it belonged there.

I seem to remember, that on the Power assist brakes anyway, there is a slight amount of travel on the petal before the pushrod that goes through the firewall ever moves. That is the actual movement that activates the switch, if that movement is not there on yours that may be your problem.

Lot of people that own sportsroof cars may not ever sat in the back seat. I know when the guy came to look at mine that bought it, I sat in the back because he and his son were up front, I had to almost lay down to ride back there. The roof comes down back there and head room disappears.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.

sounds like a good planand yes show us pictures, I would like to see finished product

I can't find that thread now I think it was a link that carried me to another thread now I can't get back to it. If I am not mistaken tho he mentioned something about putting spacers under the tracks to to raise the seat up enough to keep them from rubbing the carpet. I think you are on the right track.

One of the threads I read on VMF the guy said that he used the 69 tracks with spacers. I'll see if I can find it and post

I did some searches on this topic and found a few articles and some VMF threads. Most say yes they will work but don't give any how to do. That's the way it was back when I was thinking about doing this too. I would try to mock it up by putting the seats in there where they are comfortable to you and try to calculate where the tracks need to be to accomplish that position. also when you find your comfortable position try to locate the tracks to where they will have movement forward and backwards. If your handle won't allow you to mount tracks in that position then you may have to modify the positioning handle. I know this can be a challenge but you can do it. The seat needs to be in a comfortable position and the tracks need to be bolted to the seats in a position that they will be in line with original holes in seat riser or you will have to drill new access holes too.

I have never did the swap before but have looked into it once. The main objective for me was the height. If I had thought of the idea before I got to far along with the restoration I could have modified the seat risers to accept the new tracks but of course I didn't.

it gets a lot more involved and complicated in drag racing of course but that is a simple explanation.

Hey John A cam grind has a specific RPM power band. The stall converter allows u to hold brake or trans brake in some cases to reach the lower end of that RPM band so that u are already in your specific RPM band when u release trans brake. Unless u are racing u will not know the difference with the 2800 stall. Stall converters are streetable up to around 3500 the only thing the stall converter may do is maybe use a tad more fuel but with 525HP I don't think u would notice that either.

my only concern is if the trans and Transmission and torque converter (stall 2800) can handle the 3:50’s. The higher the gear ratio the more wear it will put on bands and clutch frictions but 350 will not be a problem in your car. Lot of explores came with 355 gears and AOD I even had a 4 wheel drive Bronco with 355 gears and 32 inch tires but of course it had an E40D trans. 350 gear will be a good selection for your car. I'll bet the 525HP Cleveland won't hardly know the difference.

As nice as your car looks I personally would not race it, I would be treating it like a baby. If you never intend to race or do any mud slinging an open rear would be my choice. If you ever want to race again take the 411 and build a race car around it.

the higher the rear end ratio the more low end torque you will loose. With 525hp u may want to loose some tho. LOL

I was on facebook yesterday and there's a guy on a mustang forum that was selling two 2 spoke steering wheels for 68/69. Wanted $75 for both of them. I never sent you the link because I knew you had already bought the parts. That's the way it goes once u buy something u always find a better deal.

Hello prayers hope all is well and welcome back. Most all the AOD's from factory had a 355 or 373. I had a 373 in my 69 with AOD and it ran around 2500 rpms at about 60mph. A drone is usually caused by your muffler/exhaust system the higher the rpm's just amplifies it so you may want to look into that as well.

One place I worked, I was called the engineer liaison, it was my job to make new designs to work in the shop before being released to the customer. Needless to say I had a close relationship with the Engineers. Have to say they were the best bunch of guys I have worked with.

Thanks Bob. That red paint came from a place called SPI down the road from me in Blairsville Ga. He mostly sold primers and clearcoat. At the time I purchased the paint from him he only had white, black and three shades of red the one I got was simply dark red. I sold that car a while back to a guy out in your area, somewhere in Bakersfield. You may see it at some car shows in your area. I have regretted selling it a 1000 times. Yes I am 75, my son and I restored a 70 Chevelle after I restored the Mach 1 and I have been debating if I have enough time left to do another Mustang, I love those 69's.

Is this like what u need. They look similar but yet a little different. I think those are the turn signal cancel tabs aren't they https://www.ebay.com/itm/124152569607?epid=23024425551&hash=item1ce811df07:g:ZfMAAOSwkzxboRNx

Tried to find a short video but couldn't, I know how u guys hate walk arounds. This is the only one I could find with it running. This will give u an idea of how those Dynomax mufflers sound. Copy of 10000000 2081230068865046 356518078882946726 n.mp4

I used the same mufflers as Texas Ed with Doug's Tri-y headers. no H or X pipe. Had no drone at all. Loved the sound.

12v to one side of relay coil and the sniper signal simply grounds the other side of coil. Doesn't your instructions show u how to connect I know the fitech does.

Yes the wires and joints u want to inspect are between the green firewall plug and black fuse block and u have to disconnect them to see it. The two pieces plug together by male and female pins. Once you have center bolt loose and green plug unplugged by releasing the clips the fuse block if I remember correctly is held to the firewall by two screws that will have to be removed also.