det0326

Well Mike I say fix like you want it, that's what matters. You know everyone has a better idea even Ford did. Doing it the way you described will probably look more original. I say go for it. dave

I use Microsoft Office picture manager. You can usually shrink them down to 1000 kb or less and they will upload OK. There could be a better one I don't know. dave

Forget the fuse I mentioned above if you have power to the switch. but it could be the resistor wire coming from switch to voltage reg. if you don't have power to the reg.

First thing I would check is the output of the voltage regulator module. Which if it is a stock reg. it will be an oscillating voltage. If you don't have an out put then check the input should be a stable 12 volts. If you have input and output then you need to start looking for something open on the new printed circuit film. Maybe bad ground?? Do you have instrument lights? If you don't have 12 volts to the reg you may have a broken/loose wire or maybe the plug that plugs to the printed circuit film not making good connection on the pin that feeds the reg. Have you checked fuse?

Unless there is other damage that I am not seeing, I'm with jmlay I would repair it. The drivers side could certainly be repaired with very little effort and the passenger side I can still see a portion of the square where the nut is welded in so locating the correct position would not be an issue. If you have good welding skills I would go for it if not maybe recruited a friend that can. When I say repair you could get the repair patch or fab your own. In my way of thinking I believe you could fab your own easier since you can still see the nut locations. And if this is a daily driver when you put the hinge back on you want see the patch anyway.

The bracket that would determine where the back of the hockey stick ends would be the bracket that helps support the package tray/filler piece and this bracket could not be upside down but it could be on the wrong side but if this was the case the tab would be pointing the wrong way. Dave

yes I saw this too but mustangstofear says in post above that he does not have them for the coupe, I guess they just have the 69 and 70 fastback. Dave

Yes Buening you are correct I have seen a lot of these brackets because I had to locate a set for my car and I don't think any of them have the holes in the same place. Dave

This is not to clear but the only one that I have It's not my car but one that I ran across somewhere

There is a right and left and most is stamped on the foot with an "R" or a "L" and it's the way the foot is welded to the rail. If you have them out and put them on a flat surface the different hands will lean in different directions. As I said it's been a while since I did mine but I think the ones that lean to right goes in the right (passenger) door and the ones that lean to the left goes in the left door. Steve69: The reason I had to bend the rails on mine was because when the window was rolled up it was centered OK and when it was rolled down it was pretty much centered, it was the middle portion that was off. Maybe yours is different than that I don't know and you can get by with shims.

could the new gasket/seal be thicker causing the problem? I haven't got this far with my car yet and not that familiar with how the hockey stick fits but it's just a thought.

Never thought about it before but I like it. That would be a cool look

It's been a while but you have to have them out which is not that bad of a deal if you still have the door panel off. Just remove the bottom bumper from the bottom of the door and roll it all the way down to get access to the top bolts then roll it back up and remove bottom bolts then u should be able to maneuver them out. I have a vise on a work bench and clamp the foot end on the rail (not the foot piece it self) with the jaws of the vice padded and the bow down toward the work bench. Then carefully push down on it slightly enough to spring it a little in the direction. As I mentioned you have to be extra careful here you can actually bend it some and not realize it. So check check and check again. BTW depending how tall your vise is you may have to put something under the bow between the rail and bench. Forgot to mention too that you will have to remove bottom window stop. Dave

I also changed to the bolt in windows and my passenger side was doing the same thing and I had to take some of the bow out of the 2 guide rails. It does not take a lot either so if you do this use slight adjustments and recheck. Dave

Hey Mike, I don't know what is correct as I said mine was partially on the shock tower and part of the apron on the passenger side. from the responses your getting it sounds like it just depended on who had the hammer that day. I don't know if different plants put them in different places or what. Like most are saying I don't think it makes any difference but believe I would rather stamp it than cut the new apron and weld the old back in but that's just me. Dave

My car is already registered in SC and have the tags although I am not driving it. It was registered before being torn down for the restoration but in SC they don't even pay any attention to the fender vin numbers only the vin tag on drivers side dash. If you want the numbers back on the fender apron/shock tower the only way is to stamp it. The numbers don't really have to be on the fender under the hood as long as you have the vin tag on the drivers side dash, putting them back on the fender/shock tower is just making it look more consistent with the way it came from the factory. Dave Again that is in SC I'm not aware of how other states work.

I replaced the fender aprons on my car too. I'm going to get the proper size stamps and stamp them myself. I think it is like a 1/4 inch letters the only problem I see is the star stamp but I understand that there is someone that makes them also. You say your numbers are on the l/s mine were on the right side shock tower. I wonder which is correct? Mine is a fastback made in Dearborn don't know if that makes a difference or not. Dave

OEM EFI's will run the fuel pump for a few seconds when the ignition switch is turned on. Does the after market EFI' not do this also . Its just momentary to prime the fuel rails.

That would be up to you. I never been a fan of a speed control really never used on my modern day vehicle always somebody in my way. Most people that has these old mustangs are more interested in how fast they can get from 0 to 60 MPH than they are at holding a constant speed. Since it is an add on I would take it off and not worry about it but that's just me.

this is just beautiful I like it. I like the fact that it looks natural and it incorporates all the gauges unlike the OEM.

Yes Doug you are right , I have my wiring harness out and I just took a look at it . The little clips on each side that hold the connector in place one is a little bit wider than the other one allowing it to only go in one way.

Kevin on this forum posted this pic of his interior is yours like this?

Do you still have the piece that broke off if so could you upload a picture of that? I know that a lot of the older cars had this type of chain link that connected to the throttle, even GM used it back in the day. Possible that something like that may work.

Primitive cruise control, now that is cool. Don't know if I would replace the broken part until I knew that the rest of the cruise was in tact and working. This is not something that would keep the car from running normally. You could always fix this at a later time but it would be nice to have this rare option working. You would be probably one of few people that has one.

colbysunday welcome to the world of restoration. Post up a picture and I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to help you. If you don't have the part on there now post a picture of where it goes. Dave