det0326

Terry, U could also get a boat motor gas tank bulb to pump it up. LOL

No drop base. Can't remember now but seems like something on back of FiTech was in the way for a drop base.

Don't know if this will help or not Terry and remember I'm old and going on memory here. In my 69 everything on the front of the chassis anyway was completely stock. I had the Edelbrock RPM performer, no carb spacer, the FiTech and a 2 inch thick aftermarket air filter. I used clay on top of filter housing and shut the hood, I had about .9 thousand of an inch clearance.

We put the ProFlo 4 on a 454. I've done electrical/electronic troubleshooting all my life so the installation was really easy for me. Just pay attention to directions and you will be fine. We used the Tanks Inc. tank with Aeromotive pump. No experience with the sump. I know at one time FiTech had something similar and had some trouble with theirs.

Have the ProFlo 4 on another project, not a Mustang. So far it runs perfect. It had a bad O2 sensor right out of the box, replaced with a new Bosch O2 sensor , hasn't giving any trouble since.

You didn't say if manual or power assist but from what you describe I assume manual. The manual M/C rod ( the ones I have seen anyway) has a retainer that holds the rod in the M/C in the event that the brake pedal gets pull back farther than its normal retracted position and allowing the rod to come out of the M/C.

The only thing I have to add is I heard Edelbrock sold their ProFlo line to another company and the Tech support is not that good anymore. I do not know if this is true or not but worth researching I guess.

No procedure really, since it seems to be an intermitting issue the only sure way to tell would be to just replace the check valve. The way u described it tho u do have a leak somewhere. Have u noticed an increase in the engine idle recently, that is a sign of vacuum leak.

The first thing I would check is the check valve where the rubber hose connects to booster. Also I had a vacuum booster once that leaked around the push rod shaft (the one between the booster and M/C} that caused the booster to function erratically sometime it sealed off and other times when you pushed the petal and released it wouldn't .

I don't think the nut would ever reach the area where threads are missing. My concern would be under the race. Was it spinning on the spindle got hot and wiped the bearing out and is now galled to the spindle ? Will it snap off well anything can happen, I would guess it would depend on how hot it may have got. If I did replace it as Brian said, I would try to find a good used one. Aftermarket would be my last resort.

need to remove the bearing race, clean it up and inspect further

Bob, i have some clear overspray on my truck I wonder if that would remove it? When the truck is freshly washed you don't notice that much but when it starts to get dirty i guess it gets down in the crevice's and it can be seen really well. Got on there when I was clear coating my Mach1. It was parked 400 feet away from paint exhaust but I guess the wind was just right that day.

why did u section the lower part of tower down near where the motor support mounts where u welded it ?

The metal ones can be shaped some by applying a little heat in the right places but u have to be careful because the pot metal will melt rather quickly. Some places u will need body filler. They can be made to fit rather nicely but it takes time and a lot of patience. I have never had any fiberglass ones but I would imagine the only thing u could do is add or remove fiberglass where u need to.

The tail light panel is defiantly different in the area where lights mount and the filler tube for the gas tank. I thought all the quarter extensions even the fiberglass ones where the same, granted they all don't fit the same tho. I think the assembly factories fitted these things individually.

Terry, if u need measurements of height of throttle body I get get that for u off the 454. I would assume it would be the same from carb pad up.

A bad O2 sensor will cause the issues you are describing, I have seen O2 bad right out of the box especially China ones. They are some test procedures on line to check O2 sensors but I don't know how reliable they are.

Terry, I think we may have talked about the one I used on another project before. I have no knowledge of using one on a Mustang but I can tell u that after we got this thing on the road the learning ability of it is awesome. The more u drive it the better it gets.

Texas Ed, how can u be doing 40 MPH and no steering wheel p

If I remember correctly that screw has to be in there. It completes the ground circuit on the printed film. I guess they didn't have a good way to get from point A to point B with printed circuit so they used the cluster housing to connect the two circuits.

Another question is when u still had the fenders on, how did the fender to hood gaps look?

I think maybe your frame rail maybe twisted also. You probably need to try to determine if it is or not and if it is you may have to weld the tower to the frame rail with it sitting flush like it is suppose to be and then put a comealong winch on it some how and pull it back where it belongs.

Now thats funny. love it

yes u maybe right I remember hooking mine up from a dia. I found but that has been several years ago. My memory doesn't serve me as well anymore. I was thinking tho that the door u speak of is operated at the same time but happens before the water coolant switch. The coolant switch is a branch off the line that operates the door.

That vacuum switch operates the heater coolant control valve in the engine bay on passenger side. Its job is to cut off coolant going to heater when in A/C mode.