det0326

I would get car up far enough to get under and make sure it can't roll and put in neutral so there is no pressure on driveshaft. Then see if you can move it around if not it is probably ok.

I have jacked rear of car up far enough that the rear of transmission is higher than the front and never lose but a few drops of fluid. There is a tool to do that but with right size tubes and etc u could do it with a press I am sure. Don't know about Australia but here some of our car parts stores has a tool loan program where u pay a deposit which u get back when the tool is returned.

If it is worn u should be able to physically move it up and down and side to side also. Not that difficult to change. Tail shaft housing would have to come off.

Is the 2 angles tilted in the same direction. Sorry for all the questions just trying to figure out if we are on the same page.

I suppose u have checked drive shaft yoke at the transmission for excessive clearance between yoke outside dia. and the bushing in the transmission.

So Bigmal If I understand correctly when u check front pulley (for simplicity let say it is 3 degrees) meaning the top of the pulley is set back toward the rear by 3 degrees. When u check front of pinion it is set turned up by 3 degrees. If your answer is yes then that should work fine. are u using wedge shims between the leaf spring and spring perch to change pinion angle.

Not quite sure what u mean by 0 degrees. If u put a inclinometer on the tailshaft of transmission or on the front pulley of the engine then what ever that angle is the pinion angle should be the same angle minus 1 in the opposite direction.

Well it is just my experience but I have never had an auto transmission to cause a vibration. Not saying it can't just saying it is rare. I know u have probably stated in your thread somewhere your trans tailshaft and pinion angles but to keep me from rereading do u have that information.

Glad you are ok Ridge. Hope Bob is too. You guys be safe. The guy that bought my first Mustang lives somewhere in Bakersfield, talked to him last night and he said so for their ok.

I could be entirely wrong but I seem to remember some 67 to 70 OEM rear end assemblies that I measured was around 59 1/8 axle flange to axle flange. The reason I was measuring them is because at the time I was building an 8.8 from an explorer to go in my 69. That would put the bare housing from end to end to be 54 1/8. I build the 8.8 to these dimensions and when all done running a 17 x 8 zero offset wheel with 245 x 17 tire on back it did rub the quarter lip when running over a dip in the road , so I had to roll the lips. If the 8.8 had been the earlier one with drum brakes it would have been perfect but it was original disk brakes and the rotors add about another 1/2 inch over all width.

That should work fine.

Ideal would be 1 degree down on transmission tail shaft and 1 degree up on pinion yoke. Since 3.5 down is all u can get on the TKO without tunnel modification then u need the yoke up 3.5 degrees. On stock leaf springs u would want pinion up 2.5 allowing 1 degree wrap up on take off but on the 3 link probably not necessary.

I had a 351w in my 69 with AFR heads. Never owned trick flow heads but heard good things about them. On mine I used the FiTech EFI but my understanding it is the same height as the stock 4 barrel. I also used the RPM performer intake and 2 inch filter with no drop down and I had 1 inch hood clearance with stock motor mounts.

I know Bob just made a mistake but truth is most younger guys would not have known the difference

I found that the front glass was easier for me than the rear glass. I found too that it is easier with a helper.

Kinda confused by Peter's last post. I always thought the 1 piece hub and rotor was same for 1969 and 1970, just a different bearing. also the tapered hole in 1970 spindle is bigger so u have to use 1970 tie rod.

I am not 100% sure but I seem to remember that some of the ford vans used the Saginaw pump in late 70's into early 80's. Maybe a place to start looking.

Welcome to the forum. RPM is going to ask for pictures of your car, we like pic's. What about the dimension 37 3/4 from center to center of rear frame rails at the rear torque box, is it good. I remember measuring mine (long ago now) I can remember it was 54 and something. Don't know what state your car is in, completely torn down or still together but did/do the quarters, door and fenders line up ok? Do you know if the car has been hit at any point of its life?

You make excellent points especially no. 2

This is just my 2 cents Ed, if I were in you're shoes knowing what I know now about classic cars, I would put the original engine up somewhere safe and get a later model roller. Not for just that reason tho there are several improvements that I like, things like a better style rear oil seal. Like I say tho that is just me but my thoughts are if I build HP with the original block I would drive it like a bandit and blow a rod out the side and it would be lost forever.

Ed's door is wrong side isn't it. Not sure how much that piece would help you

I used the 20350712 in a 351 bored .040 over and really loved it. Had plenty of power I think u will like it.

and don't ever put a table of any sort even temporally, it will become completely full with stuff and you will have no idea where it came from.

Ed, I have an original mirror housing if that is what u need and it is even in your color. I will have to locate it but I think it is in good shape.

Merry Christmas Ed. The only thing I would be concerned about is some of those stroker cranks were having problems with the counter bore on the back where the convertor snout slips in. I know u said that u were going to use the T5 so there may not be any problem for your build, just mentioned it in case something changes and u use the auto, have your builder to check the dia. and depth.