Chris'69Mach

Steering Column -- Sold

Scoop Emblems --- sold

OEM '69 gas cap OEM: Missing both springs -- Make offer

OEM '69 gas cap OEM: Missing both springs -- Make offer

'69 grille emblem OEM -- Make offer Marker lights OEM -- Make offer ( Only one front marker light, the other one was broken). Outer dash, driver's side trim molding: -- Make offer

'69 grille emblem OEM -- Make offer Marker lights OEM -- Make offer ( Only one front marker light, the other one was broken). Outer dash, driver's side trim molding: -- Make offer

Inner and outer tie rods, center link, ram piston, idler arm, PS control valve: All about a year old except the center link is original -- $250.00 OBO Gauge pod and extra gauges and pieces: I know all the loose gauges work. I do not know if the fully assembled one does or not. -- Make offer Fan with 1 3/4" spacer: Make offer 351C valve covers: need repainted just minor surface rust -- Make offer

Inner and outer tie rods, center link, ram piston, idler arm, PS control valve: All about a year old except the center link is original -- $250.00 OBO Gauge pod and extra gauges and pieces: I know all the loose gauges work. I do not know if the fully assembled one does or not. -- Make offer Fan with 1 3/4" spacer: Make offer 351C valve covers: need repainted just minor surface rust -- Make offer

I recently installed a power rack and pinion and need to find a home for some parts. Distributor from a 351C: Has new gear, needs new magnetic pick-up -- $50.00 OBO Steering Box: No slop that I had noticed while driving over the last 1 1/2 years -- Make offer Power Steering Pump w/ Bracket and Pulley -- $100.00 OBO

I recently installed a power rack and pinion and need to find a home for some parts. Distributor from a 351C: Has new gear, needs new magnetic pick-up -- $50.00 OBO Steering Box: No slop that I had noticed while driving over the last 1 1/2 years -- Make offer Power Steering Pump w/ Bracket and Pulley -- $100.00 OBO

WTS: I have installed a TCP power rack and pinion and have some parts I no longer need. These parts have nothing wrong with them, I just wanted to update things on the Mustang. I have an OEM steering box (has no slop in it), OEM steering column (turn signal cam needs replaced), OEM power steering pump, Center link with tie rods, idler arm, power steering control valve and slave cylinder (all parts are about 1 year old except the center link, it is original). A pair of fold down seat latch guides (new repop). And a 351C 4v distributor that has been converted to electronic ignition (the magnetic pick-up needs replaced). Damn sprint, I am waiting for most of the pictures to hit my email still.

Prayers, you have 1300+ posts. Could you possibly put a link up for your thread? I was about to ask what do I need to do the conversion from a 20" to a 24" radiator.

No, I cannot drive it without it over-heating. It does not matter if it is city driving or hi-way driving, it still over-heats. I have a 20" radiator. According to the Marti report, it came with a 302 and C4 transmission. I got it with a 1970 351 Cleveland 4v. I was told it was a Mach 1 when I bought it and found out it is just a sportsroof.

Water pump has been taken off and cleaned up. It is still working properly. Yes, it is 13* with the vacuum advance disconnected. The total timing is at 34*. I have tested the coolant and there are no exhaust gases present. This is one of the reasons I have replaced the head gaskets and bolts. Where is this "bypass" to be located? And if I were to get a 24" 3 core aluminum radiator, would I still need to use a bypass plate Ideally, what should the radiator outlet temperature be on a 351C 4V?

From what I can tell, the engine has not been bored out. I looked when I had the heads off. The radiator is original to the car. It is a 20", 2 row I believe. This is the fan I installed http://www.cjponyparts.com/flex-a-lite-electric-fan-kit-black-magic-s-blade-15-inch-3000-cfm-universal/p/FAN23/ The engine runs hot in traffic, city and hi-way driving. What is a "water by pass block off plate? And where is it installed? What does this plate do? *Note* I have had this Mustang for 2 years and have driven it to Indiana, Richmond and Ocean City with no over-heating problems in the last year. Well, except for once. I was sitting in a drive through for nearly 20 mins and it shut off as the temp got over 200*. That was on the way back from Indiana last Thanksgiving. After driving it to test the over-heating issue, when I pull into the garage, the coolant boils over. So, I know my gauge is reading correctly. Your idea of the radiator not being big enough, has merit to me and what I have been thinking. But, could it also be the spark plugs are too hot? Could it be running too lean?

Here re the things I have checked/done. *Note* I had over-heating issues already before I did the following. Replaced head gaskets, head bolts, intake gaskets, intake bolts, exhaust gaskets and bolts. I did all of this because I believed I had head gasket issues. And I did .... the head bolts were stretched as were the intake bolts. Good thing I had already ordered the new bolt sets. Took off the original distributer and put on a HEI distributer (looks ginormous but it cleaned up the engine bay a little by taking out the coil). Put a 3000cfm electric puller fan on. Put the "correct" thermostat in, a 180* one. Yes, it has the little hat and the restrictor plate is present in the block. Set the timing to 13* at the harmonic balancer. Burped the cooling system 3 times (just to make sure I got all the air out). Shot the radiator with a tempurature gun, 206* - 210* on outlet (top of radiator) and 168* - 170* on intake (bottom of radiator). The fan and radiator seem to be doing their job well enough. But I am over-heating no matter where I drive, either on the hi-way or country road. The engine sounds and runs fine imho. What about spark plugs? Could they be "too hot" to cause the over-heating? If so, what spark plugs should I run? Any other ideas? This is my daily driver by the way.

I guess it is part of the "fully adjustable system".:rockon:

Bought the TCP 4-Link suspension kit and installed it. Before welding in the upper brace, I had to cut the tailpipes off at the muflers and then re-route them to go under the axle. There just wasn't enough room to over the axle with the 4-Link installed. It looks and ride hella better than the stock leaf springs!

Here are some pictures of what is going on. Is the Turn signal cam the wrong one? http://www.cjponyparts.com/turn-signal-wiring-w-fixed-wheel-1969/p/TSW6/ http://www.cjponyparts.com/turn-signal-wiring-tilt-1968-1969/p/TSW4/ I have an Ididit Tilt Column. I have also pulled out the signal cam and there is nto a way to recess it further into the column.

The horn terminators dont seem to be the problem. The other wires' eyelet connectors that are exposed that are on top of the turn signal cam seem to be what are grinding the horn contact disc. I have recessed them as much as possible and now it seems to be the little plastic guides that those wires pass between are hitting the horn contact disc. What looks like that needs to happen is the whole turn signal cam needs to be pushed down further into the column ... is that possible?

Over the weekend I installed a TCP power rack and pinion with a new power steering pump (KRC) and an Ididit tilt column. I ordered all this through TCP for compatibility concerns. All went in amazingly easy until I was putting on the Grant steering wheel back on. After torquing the steering wheel down, I noticed a grinding noise while turning the wheel. The disc that has the horn contacts on it was getting scraped by the terminators on the wires that are on the turn signal cam. I believe if I had another 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch, I would be able to torque the wheel down without any issues. Can the shaft be pulled out of the column any to get this needed clearance? Has anyone else ran into this issue? What was the fix? Do I need to go with a rim blow wheel??? Or is there another option available? Thanks in advance for any advice. Chris

Got it today. The 2nd one I ordered was listed as a '70 lower wide grille molding. And it fits perfectly.

I ordered one from CJPP and it is totally wrong. Looking at it on their site, the one they have listed for the 70 looks like what I need for my 69. So, I ordered that one and am getting it today. We'll see soon enough.

I am leaning towards the Holley Terminator set-up. Seems more user friendly to me and what I have read, it comes with a baseline already on it. That would make life easier!

Should I go with Holley, Edelbrock, or something else? Pro's and con's? Keep in mind I have a 4v 351 Cleveland. Not sure if it makes a difference cause Clevelands are a different kind of engine. Thanks in advance!