Jump to content

Chris'69Mach

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    250

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Chris'69Mach

  2. Posted · Report reply

    1969 Ford Mustang Fastback. Here is a list of things that have been updated since I got the car in December of 2012. I have not found ANY notable rust on this car. I have turned 98% of the nuts and bolts on this car and know it from front to back. From what I was told, the owner before me had this car garaged for 20 years before it was sold before me. When I bought it, it was in primer and had no interior. I have the original license plate also. I was also told before I bought it, this car was a Mach 1 … it is not .. I pulled the Marti Report and it is just a 1969 Sports Roof.

     

    1)      Holley Electronic Fuel Injection

    2)      Stainless Steel Fuel Lines

    3)      Stainless Steel Brake Lines

    4)      Stainless Steel Transmission Lines

    5)      2 Core Aluminum Radiator

    6)      Wilwood Front Disc Brakes

    7)      Ididit Tilt Steering Column

    8)      Kenwood Sound System

    9)      TMI Front Seats

    10)   Keyless Entry

    11)   4 Link Coil Over Adjustable Rear Suspension

    12)   Power Rack and Pinion Coil Over Front Suspension

    13)   1970 4 Valve 351 Cleveland Engine

    14)   Re-Sealed Automatic C-4 Transmission (Original to the car)

    15)   Classic Cragar Wheels (Aluminum)

    16)   255 Cooper Tires on Rear, 235 Cooper Tires on Front

    17)   Fold-down Rear Seat

    18)   New Fuel Tank

    19)   New Gauges to Include Tachometer  

    20)   Replaced the Heater Core

    21)   Replaced the Thermostat with a 185* Thermostat

     

    Here is a list of some things that I feel needs to still be done.

     

    1)      Re-Upholster the Rear Seat

    2)      Repair the Driver’s Side Door (The car was lowered onto a jack stand)

    3)      Replace the door felts (both doors have rust bubbles forming in the front corners due to the chuckleheads that installed them not doing it correctly and them leaving the car outside in the weather … I have always kept the car garaged)

    4)      Replace the Rear window Seal Correctly by the Manufacturer’s Specifications. (Again, the Chuckleheads at the shop I bought the car from did this incorrectly and it leaks. They also tried to fix it with seam sealer! Damn idiots)

    5)      Connect Power to the Clock

    6)      Replace the Heater Controls

    7)      Needs a Paint Job (Currently it has a 30 Foot Paint Job. If you get any Closer than that … you go ACK !!!)

     

    I am brutally honest, as I would want the same in return. I have invested NEARLY $80k. I know there is no way in hell that I would get that out of this and knew that going into this. I will not take anything less than $27k for the car and that is my rock bottom $. If you want more picture just ask. If you want to come see the car in person, just ask.

    Seven.jpg

    One.jpg

    Two.jpg

    Three.jpg

    Four.jpg

    Five.jpg

    Six.jpg

    Eight.jpg

    Nine.jpg

    Ten.jpg

    Chris B.jpg

    2.jpg

    IMAG0497.jpg

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I currently have a spoiler on the trunk lid.... BUT it is mounted through the hinges. Not sure if the Mach 1 trunk lid is different from the "Sportsroof" version or not. Heck, the spoiler on there might not even be for a Mustang ... I do not know. At this point to have it mounted correctly, I am in search of a Mach 1 trunk lid with the correct mounting locations outside of the hinges. The Mustang is getting a new high end paint job late fall of this year and I would much prefer it to be done right and not look all Jenky so to speak.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Pulled my hair out .... after replacing the 20" radiator with an aluminum 3 row 24" radiator with dual electric 12" fans, new heater core and new hoses, started engine. Started the process of burping the radiator, the fans did not turn on to cool it down. It got to 205* and shut it off. Coolant came out of radiator like a volcano everywhere. Was best to shut it off immediately than to button up the radiator first. Better to have coolant everywhere than a cracked block imho. Tested the fan's painless wiring harness. All wiring was working fine including the relay. Hooked the fans directly to the battery and not a GD thing. BRAND NEW Fans !!!! Chewed on CJPP's rep. Champion is sending me 2 replacement fans directly.

     

    I would have to say, engine compartment is looking mighty fine though.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Add a second coolant temperature sensor on a 351c. I have installed an electric fan with "Painless" temperature sensor and wiring harness. It has 2 male leads on the sensor. One being used for a ground and the other goes to a relay to turn on and off the fan at temp. Do I add a "T" fitting to one of the heater hoses and use that for my dash temp gage? Or is there a better solution. If I were to install a "T" fitting, does anyone have a suggestion for what I need? Or is there somewhere else on the block that I can install the 2nd sensor?

     

    Chris

×
×
  • Create New...