69NC

Good luck John! These cars are all a little different. and the repo parts are also not the best for all cars. Did you check the wheel house to see if it is the same curve as the original? Maybe it's not the right shape? Wish you the best. I know you'll figure it out! --Rod

John, I just installed the Dynacorn quarters on my Convert. I had a issue like yours, but after working it a lot I got it to with in 3/16 of an inch. I then filled the gap. The way that I fix was two fold: 1) I had to move the the convertible frame drip rail out a small amount about 2/16 to 3/16 I did this with a come-a-long attached to the center area where the convertible frame and quarter overlap. 2) the dynacorn fenders seem to have too much bow (Curvature) in them, so I had to push them slightly in, in the middle. This causes the two ends to move outward. Alternatively you can attach the top portion with clamps, and then pull down on the lower section, this will also move the middle inwards to meet the wheel well. Not sure if that helps, I did a write up in my blog too, if you want to read and see the photos. http://www.theracg.com/2013/12/install-the-new-rear-quarters/

Another +1 for Tin Mans. They fit the frame really well, and weld in very nice. Here is the write up on my install: http://www.theracg.com/2012/10/seat-pans-and-the-subframe-connector/

Here is the web example I was talking about:

I have seen a few pictures of 69-70 mustangs with the weather striping mounted on the Body. if someone here has done this, can you post back what type, or car model you used when you order the weather striping? Mounting on the body seems like a better way to go to prevent leaks. Water does not run up hill. Pretty much every modern car is like this. The u-channel weather striping would fit on three of the four sides, but the tail panel part is flat, so something would have to be bonded to it, or major reworking would be needed to create a ridge like the rest of the trunk. Thanks in advance!

The X-Ray photo show a standard hood scoop, not a shaker scoop. If you look close you can see the blinker notches at the rear of the hood. You can also see the top of the intake. I looked at Larry's car, in the other link you provided, and the Mach 1 motor with the shaker is much taller than the 4.6l engine. Ford even had to put a rise in the hood of the 04 Mach 1 verses the GT. You can see the rise in the photo below. You may want to get one the cowl hoods to give you enough clearance. here is an example. I have seen them with any where from 2" to 5" of additional clearance. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=M108+01&Category=Body&subCategory=Hoods&SubSubCategory=Fiberglass%2FComposite&CatKey=EMUSTANG Sounds like great project. You'll have to post photos as you build it.

That's a good Dash, I bet you gave a few "Bucks" for it :laugh: Seriously Those are great deer. Welcome to the Mustang club.

I second the Dynacorn recommendation. I have used their fenders, aprons, doors, quarters, and floor pans. all have fit very well with little to no "Adjustments" like some of the cheaper parts that the PO put on my car.

Here is a link to the write up I did on fabricating the drip pans: http://www.theracg.com/2013/11/convertible-drip-pans/'>http://www.theracg.com/2013/11/convertible-drip-pans/ It took a while for me to get this written up, too busy making progress on the car ;) You can read about my restomod progress here: http://www.theracg.com

It would seem that there are other mustangs running around with the Torino shaker: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9070

Thanks for the great comments. I save all the patterns I use. I'd be happy to provide a copy if someone needs it. When I get some time I'll write up my steps on my blog. and let everyone know here. You can read about the work I've done so far at: http:http://www.theracg.com

I started fabricating the drip pan this weekend. Here is a preview of what the part looks like. I decided to make two, one Left, and one Right, that way both sides will look the same. Kris is this more to your expectations :smile: Here is the before: You can read my resto-mod journey from purchase to current state at: http://www.theracg.com

Thank guys for the comments. I'll start building my own. As for the adhesive, it's the Lords Fusor, it is what every new car is put together with. and the OEM recommendation for repairs. I have seen Fusor used to install replacement fenders and later seen the same car come back in the shop after an accident. The fender tore before the Fusor let go. As long as the surface is prepped properly it's very strong. You can read my resto-mod journey from purchase to current state at: http://www.theracg.com

Hi, this is my first post, I been reading some of the great info, thanks to everyone who provides the technical know how. If you have restored a convertible how did you deal with the drip pans, that are under the rear deck filler panel? Here is a picture of one side of my car. I managed to repair this side since it had holes in the center, but the outside edge was good. If you are interested you read about the repair here: http://www.theracg.com/2013/07/removing-the-deck-filler-panel/'>http://www.theracg.com/2013/07/removing-the-deck-filler-panel/ The problem I have is that the other side is like Swiss cheese and really needs to be replaced. No one sells, that I know of, a replacement. So what did any of the readers here do? I got to believe that they all rust out. But the strange thing is I cannot find much on this site, nor through google. Any thoughts, recommendations, or other ideas? Oh I did check around for a donor, but no luck, pretty much all I looked at were as bad, or worse than mine.. Thanks for your help, Rod. You can read my resto-mod journey from purchase to current state at: http://www.theracg.com