69NC

Another vote for the Aeromotive in-tank pump.

+1 for Dynacorn. I replaced every outside panel (I hate rust.) with Dynacorn, the fit is good with very little metal work needed.

Sea Dragon, Good to see you are still working on your car. Did the templates for the drip pans I sent you help? It should be pretty easy to fabricate the drip rails. The factory parts are in two pieces that are welded together and then filled with seam sealer. If you create two "L" shaped parts then use a shrinker / stretcher to match the radius you can weld them together on the bottom and fill with seam sealer. Here is a picture of the shrinker in action to create a corner:

Pakrat, Yes i like the cleaner look of the 70, and when I bought the car the PO had put a 70 front end, and other parts on the car already. I really need to update my blog, so far I have a rod & custom front and rear suspension installed, and a Coyote 5.0L with a Tremec T-56 6 speed installed (Had to remake the trans tunnel for that to fit with the right pinion angle). I'll be doing some custom touches to the car including modifying the Shelby fiberglass. My goal is have it look like a nice restoration with some fancy wheels from about 10 - 20 feet, then as you get closer, you will really start to notice a lot of subtle changes. If you look through my early posts the car had a lot of rust. It had sat outside in a bare earth floor car port for about 20 years. so the top of the car was nice, but the bottom had rusted pretty badly. so there was a lot metal replacement and rust removal. The good thing is that I have personally touched every panel and seam and replaced or removed any rust, and sealed, or painted every panel. I think from some of your early posts you put a Shelby trunk on your car too, right? It seem like they all need a lot of work to fit correctly. I went with the Tony Branda vacuum formed parts, but I still need to make a lot tweaks to get to fit well. I know the rear of the car is right as the original trunk fits clean. so the fiberglass is just wonky.

Yes, I've been working on it for about 3 years now. I need to update my blog been busy at work so it it's either work on the mustang or blog about it, and you can guess which wins :)

I had to make my own, here is a link to the blog article: http://www.theracg.com/2014/02/more-mustang-unobtainium-trunk-corners/ The other part that is not made is the top of the trunk corner. I had to modify the 68 coupe parts to make them work on the 69-70: http://www.theracg.com/2014/02/making-the-trunk-top-corner/ Hope this helps.

Wishing you and yours all the best this holiday season! Remember all our mustangs are hybrids! They burn Gas and Rubber :biggrin:

I went with the Hydroboost set up. I ordered a 2004 Cobra booster, and modified the backing plate to get eh right angle. I also found a nice diagram on the Factory five forum that listed a the AN fittings you need.

I found the link to their web site. they are custom made, but use the stock rubber isolators http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=67-68&cat=cooling∏=radiator_mounting_brackets

I got my radiator mounts from Mustangs to fear. They fit really well and are a nice stamped unit. The MTF guys frequent this site.

1) did you have the battery load tested? Autozone and any auto parts place will do this for free. Assuming that everything was right 2 years ago, and the battery is good. lets determine between the starter and the rest of voltage circuits 2) Try disconnecting the starter and test. does the voltage still drop to zero? Note, there is a fuseable link for everything except the starter, so most likely that would blow on a really bad short. with the starter disconnected, if the voltage does not drop, start by taking the starter off the car, and have it tested (Again Autozone, or others will do for free). Did you wire the MSD box directly to the battery? If so disconnect that for now and see if the problem goes away? if you can do them one at a time to try to isolate the problem.

Once again 69 stang website presents timely information exactly when i needed it. I doing this mod this weekend on mine to add clearance for a 4 core Alum rad and fans. :thumbup1:

Once again 69 stang website presents timely information exactly when i needed it. I doing this mod this weekend on mine to add clearance for a 4 core Alum rad and fans. :thumbup1:

I installed both sides on my 69 convert. They needed some very minor tweaking to fit perfectly. over all I'm very happy with them. If you want you can read my full install here: http://www.theracg.com/2013/12/install-the-new-rear-quarters/

I installed both sides on my 69 convert. They needed some very minor tweaking to fit perfectly. over all I'm very happy with them. If you want you can read my full install here: http://www.theracg.com/2013/12/install-the-new-rear-quarters/

I used three Popsicle sticks stacked up to set my door bottom gap. I taped them to the sill, this helped to stabilize the door while I moved it in out. That way it was always level with the bottom.

+1 for the Eastwood flaring tool. I'm using it to plumb my car too.

Gatlin69, Thank you. You do great work. very nice looking install. I'm hoping to see the Tuff Stuff before I make a decision.

I checked and did not see it on your web site. is this an adapter, or a booster for a manual master cylinder?

Gatlin69, could you take pictures of your set up fro me?

Bob, pictures would be great. What motor are you currently running?

I'm looking for what others have done to solve the problem of fitting a brake booster in a 69 mustang with a Coyote motor. Anyone here have recommendations, or personal experience. Any sagely advice? From my reading I have seen 3 solutions, but there is little detail about now they actually work. The most expensive solution ~ $1000 is the ABS electric/hydraulic. I saw this on the MTF car on this site. the other solutions are lower cost, depending on if you buy them or get the parts take a Hydroboost system from Mustang circa 2005. This is the one I have the least amount of information on. http://image.hotrod.com/f/feature_stories/hrdp_1307_ford_coyote_engine_swap_guide_part_2/46493726/hdp-1307-31%2Bford-coyote-engine-swap-guide-part-2%2Bbrake-booster.jpg And finally Several folks have claimed success using late 80's power booster from a Fox body Mustang 4 cyl. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/619453-longshot-modmotor-power-brakes-possible.html This is one I have not seen anybody use, but it looks interesting The tuffstuff 2225N boster for 69-70 mustangs. it's only about 3.75" thick and 9" around. And I think is the booster used on the Boss 429 mustangs http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=198/mode=cat/cat198.htm Anyone with experience on these? I'm looking for install thoughts, but also how well they work. Thanks Rod.

Wycked69 That looks great. I'm saving this thread for when I get to this stage on my car. Again awesome job. Did you cross cut the holes for the clock and gauges? or how did you open them to get a smooth roll around the lip?

Thanks John, Good luck on yours. let me know if you have any questions.

Rcodenewf That's exactly what I had to do on my Convertible You can read my posting on it here: http://www.theracg.com/2012/06/installing-the-floor-and-seat-pan/ Here is a picture of the before and after modification: