69NC

That's what they look like to me. Roller pins for the starter Bendix.

I knew that EE degree would pay off :). How many bonus points do I get?

In physics it's the holes that migrate, not the electrons. It makes the math simpler

I see you have quality control help :)

I have a set from ring brothers and had a similar issue. Check for interference on the back of the hinge and the firewall, I had to use a body hammer to re shape the pocket in the firewall to have it sit flat.

Nice bracket. As long as it's out of the way of your feet and other parts it's great. Nice work.

Not the best pictures, but you can see where additional fiberglass is added to make the end caps match the tail panel.

If you're going with that type of box and buying it off Amazon, order new connectors. I have one of those I plan to use and the connectors they come with are crap. The retention strength will not hold up to automotive vibration. If you want those let me know I can look up the part number for the connectors that I used. You can order from mouser or digi-key.

I can, it may take a bit to remove the gauge cluster. I have connectors on the gauge cluster so it will come out easy. Get good quality relays that are a bit oversized for current load and you will not have to worry about them. The ones included in the AAW harness are good ones.

You can have the Shelby trunk and end caps with the stock tail panel. You have to do some filling on the undersides of the end caps. I and a few others on the forum have done it. I can dig some photos up if you need. Oh, Welcome to the forum

I made a bracket and mounted the relays above the steering column. I had to cut the cable ties off to get the slack to move them there. But I'm adding a lot of additional wiring so they had to come off anyway. Vic fridge is also doing a lot of custom wring changes. Infact I made a riff of his spreadsheet to track my circuit changes. I'm not sure on the AC. I went with vintage air mostly because Dakota digital has a climate control upgrade for their system.

I'm a former electrical engineer. I did embedded controller work for a major automotive tool manufacturer for about 10 years, then I switched to cloud services and enterprise architecture, pays better. I still do it as a hobby.

I would not recommend running a ground wire to all the different ground wires in the harness and then running that one wire to ground as it is likely to increase the resistance and therefore potentially introduce noise or have some of the circuits ground reference float. This could for example mess with a digital fuel gauge. This is why for digital signals they run a separate ground reference that does not carry any significant current load. another example of running a separate ground wire back to the battery for a single device, like an amplifier would be to help reduce noise as that one wire only has the current from the amp flowing on it. But again this one circuit, not a bunch of different circuits lumped together. The chassis is a excellent ground point with near infinite capacity. Form a theoretical view on pure electron flow (or hole migration for the physicist) if you have a connection to a ground point that will work. The theory is in a perfect environment with zero ohm connections and perfect conductors. Nothing like the real world. Great question!

Rwcstang, sweet sounding ride!

I went with the AAW kit, very happy. They use a GM fuse block that has the flashers on it. The extra circuits are great and they have good features like power to the trunk for led lights, and a 3rd brake light wire. They have instructions for a dakota digital dash. All in all very happy.

I used two small screw drivers and a needle nose vice grip to remove and install it.

I use the Lord's fusor seam sealer. 123ez for primer and 019 for bare metal https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/brands/fusor---aftermarket-repair-adhesives/fusor-seam-sealing-and-sound-control-products

Look closely the top bolt eye piece is welded on.

Did you check if the drive shaft is out of round? Or unbalanced? Try checking if the yoks are welded on center to the shaft and each other. That will cause a harmonic vibration as well. Just a thought.

Good to know. I'll book mark this when I start to put my windows back in.

Glad to see the overwhelming response.

Another place to check is your ground strap between the motor and the chassis. If the motor is not well grounded, the added load of the lights will create a differential that could show up on the temp gauge. Ideally you should have two ground straps between the motor and the chassis.

I'm not sure if it's because of the instant communication we have or has world gotten more populated with a-holes. This is just Sad http://www.thedrive.com/news/12475/asshole-torches-1970-ford-mustang-mach-1-owned-by-disabled-child

For me I put the air intake box where the battery was. That way I could reuse the shelf and the vent slots for cold air intake. I'm running a coyote motor so the shock towers needed to go.

They work great. The wheel is like a big eraser, it makes little rubber bits taking the stripes with them and leaving the paint untouched. I have used them multiple times to reduce dealer stickers on new cars.