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Everything posted by 69NC

  1. I use the Lord's fusor seam sealer. 123ez for primer and 019 for bare metal https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/brands/fusor---aftermarket-repair-adhesives/fusor-seam-sealing-and-sound-control-products
  2. Look closely the top bolt eye piece is welded on.
  3. Did you check if the drive shaft is out of round? Or unbalanced? Try checking if the yoks are welded on center to the shaft and each other. That will cause a harmonic vibration as well. Just a thought.
  4. Good to know. I'll book mark this when I start to put my windows back in.
  5. Glad to see the overwhelming response.
  6. Another place to check is your ground strap between the motor and the chassis. If the motor is not well grounded, the added load of the lights will create a differential that could show up on the temp gauge. Ideally you should have two ground straps between the motor and the chassis.
  7. I'm not sure if it's because of the instant communication we have or has world gotten more populated with a-holes. This is just Sad http://www.thedrive.com/news/12475/asshole-torches-1970-ford-mustang-mach-1-owned-by-disabled-child
  8. For me I put the air intake box where the battery was. That way I could reuse the shelf and the vent slots for cold air intake. I'm running a coyote motor so the shock towers needed to go.
  9. They work great. The wheel is like a big eraser, it makes little rubber bits taking the stripes with them and leaving the paint untouched. I have used them multiple times to reduce dealer stickers on new cars.
  10. I have the AAW wiring kit. The diagram is fine, but I'm an electral engineer so reading wiring diagrams is second nature. Overall It's a good kit. I'm installing a lot of customizations so the AAW harness is good as it has plenty of extra circuits. It came with new tail light sockets, and the correct headlight switch. The only thing missing is the convertible top wiring, so I'll have to create that myself.
  11. It would be no different than the wires along since there's nothing that they are connected to. But if you looking in the engine bay it would look totally stock with the regulator and the wires. It really depends on the look you want.
  12. Why not gut a regulator. Then hook the wires up to your now dummy regulator. It will look stock.
  13. I Installed Tinman's subframe connectors. I had to trim the seat pans here is a link to my installation http://www.theracg.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_9508.jpg http://www.theracg.com/2012/10/seat-pans-and-the-subframe-connector/
  14. Glad you got it working! Can't wait to hear what the issue was.
  15. They are also avail from pretty much any of the suppliers CJ pony has them Single nut with the bolt: http://www.cjponyparts.com/fender-to-rocker-panel-bolt-nut-1965-1970/p/HW220/ Or just the nuts: http://www.cjponyparts.com/fender-to-cowl-nut/p/359613S/
  16. Bob, A few questions. if you hook up the break in tach, it's under the hood? where as the auto meter tach has wires running to the dash area? Do you have the filter cap in place? if it is missing, or bad there could be noise that is confusing the tach (Not as likely as you have no movement, and not a bouncing tach) http://image.cpsimg.com/sites/carparts-mc/assets/classroom/images/ignitiondiagram.gif if you have a test light, or a volt/ohm meter you check that you have tach wired in correct (Like is mentioned above) if you can get the tach to work under the hood, then check that the wires running to the dash don't have any breaks/opens An easy way to check the pulses is to unplug the high tension lead to the distributor cap and and ground it. Then hook up the volt meter set to AC, between ground and the neg terminal on the coil. when you crank the engine you should see some voltage reading (this is caused as the points open a close grounding our the coil). If you move the voltage probe from the neg side of the coil to the pos side, you should not see any voltage as it should remain at 12 V DC (remember the volt meter is on AC, so it is expecting to see a cycle in the voltage) A test light will flash on the neg side, and be on steady on the pos side Do you have a pertonix ignitor? I have seen them cause problem with some Tachs If you want more help, you can contact me directly. PM for info. This is completely aside, and please don't take this wrong, but I see a bit irony in that you have the handle of RPM, and you have a tach problem :D
  17. Sorry Bob. I meant 69fstback, I think that's the original poster.
  18. Cool, than you only need a 5 or 10 amp fuse to protect it. I'd get rid of the cotter pin, it's one small accidental short away from a fire.
  19. The whole circuit for a 69 mustang is probably only 30 - 50 Amps I think the factory alternator was only 35 or 40 amps. I assume that you wired the power side of the fan relays directly to your battery, and are only using the fuse panel to switch them on? In which case you only need a few amps. The cotter pin will handle 100 amps or more, so if you get a short in your fan circuit, you could fry the wiring harness. Here is a simple example of how to wire up a fan. the orange wire in the diagram is the one that goes to the fuse panel, and it will only draw a few amps to activate the relay.
  20. I'm pretty sure that will handle a lot more than 20 Amps. Though you now have a fusible link to your wiring harness.
  21. I would replace the panel, you will end up doing far less body work and not have bondo. I went with Dynacorn and had little trouble fitting the parts. Like was stated above do one panel at a time to make sure you have original parts (door striker panels, the tail panel, roof, etc..) in place to align to and measure and clamp, I like clecos to hold the panel in place. Measure and align several times before you weld. redoing/tweaking when clamped is easy, don't rush to welding Mine's a convertible, but if you want to see the steps I took to replace the rear quarters, you can read my blog entry: http://www.theracg.com/2013/12/install-the-new-rear-quarters/
  22. While test fitting my grille, I found out that in my box of stuff from the PO, I had sport lamps but no brackets. It turns out that the brackets are not reproduced, well part of it is, but not both parts. So just like the drip pans for my convertible, I decided to make my own brackets. Thought others may have run across this too. Like all parts I cannot find, it starts with cardboard: After several rounds of trial fitting, it begins to take shape Once it looks and fits well, I transfer it to metal Then the cutting and shaping starts: more trimming, and few touch ups with the die grinder Starting to look like everything fits: Everything bolts up and grille sits where it should. Just needs some finish up and painting, should be good to go.
  23. Do a search it's been done before. If you Google for chip foose overhauling he did a mustang convertible. They look nice but will require a lot of metal work.
  24. Plus one for Virginia classic. I got the boss 302 ones. They fit really well. Also get new gaskets.
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