shaun071

One quick question about the Fitech system. I'll be running an AOD auto- is the TV cable corrector bracket still needed or is there a mount point for a ball stud on the throttle lever with the correct ratio?? Thanks Shaun

My life story- when the dollar was at parity I had no cash. I came into some cash the dollar drops to 80c overnight!!! If I get the system now I can run it on the 302 then fit it to the 351c when it's ready

I'm interested it may be subject to the aussie dollar exchange rate and postage though. Looks to be a great system.

I've been seriously considering the coupe/fastback conversion on my coupe as a retirement project. Enjoy the car as a coupe for the next 15 or so years while buying the sheet metal piece by piece. This thread will be a great reference tool.

Headers and a dual exhaust will make a huge difference. They'll add up to 50 hp with your components.

Ahh ok. I've got the fixed rectangular base style and was after either powered or telescopic

Do you have any pictures? I'd like to do that too.

Sounds good Bob!

Try these guys http://seatbeltsolutions.com.au/ To my knowledge they are the only ADR compliant company licensed to reweb seatbelts with new material in Australia. All the falcon get shops send their belts there to get refurbished.

Took some pics today. Not the clearest but should give you something to go on. The retractor sits above the package tray. It's a double thickness panel here A reinforcing plate goes below. 3"x2" 1/8" thick. This spreads the load across a larger area. Most 70s-80s cars with factory fitted 3 point belts in the rear have similar mounts. This hole is original, at the base of the rear screen and is through a double thickness panel. It lines up perfectly with the centre line of the seating position this is where the booster seat strap mount will go with a 3"X1.5"X1/8" plate underneath I hope this helps. I have seen several 69-70 fast backs done the same way here in Australia. Our seatbelt regs are very tight and it was compulsory to fit 3 point belts front and rear up until about 12 months ago. Cheers Shaun

The regulations vary from state to state. When I fitted my belts you had to go with adr approved belts then in 2014 it changed to standard belts in good condition. I still have to have mine approved by an engineer because of the modified mounting points. He's happy to sign off on the work as I stuck to the national mod codes. As D0ZX said, belt mods open a huge can of worms here in oz.

Lock wiring can be satisfying or a special hell. Lol.

The belts were a modern style from hemco here in Australia. I don't know how strict the rules are in the states but here the mounting plates have to be 3x2" in area and 1/8" thick for the belts and the booster mount has to be 4 square inches in area. I got the mounts from a local hot rod shop. Does your Mach have a fold down rear seat? My car is a coupe so there may be some differences.

I have 3 point retractable belts in the rear. It was pretty simple to do. The retractor sits on the package tray with a reinforcing plate on the underside. I just used the stock lap belt mounts for the other 2 points. For the booster seat stap mount there's a hole through the package tray you can use. I'll take some pics and post them up when I get a chance.

Very neat job! You've set the standard for the rest of us! It's interesting the tri-y headers fit so well. It would be interesting to see if Tri-ys for clevelands fit as well. I had 4-1 headers on my Cleveland and they were hard up against the pan.

I'll cut those out too. Once I've removed the trim I'll make a decision on whether to keep it or delete it. I like the look of the 70 trim but it might be a little hard to come by here in Australia.

Yes, it seems the only way to do it. 3 point retractable belts have been mandatory for US imported classics here in Aus. I spent a lot of time at car shows and talking to compliance engineers here and 90% of the cars have the belts set up this way.

I moved the lower mount back to below the b pillar and can get full seat travel. I think it's the only way to get the belts to work properly and get proper clearance to the seat. Also rear passengers aren't tripping over seatbelts gettin in. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/50945-69-coupe-aussie-style-restomod/page-2

I've still got a full repaint to do so I might just weld up the holes and leave the trim off. Looks better to me.

I think it looks pretty good without the trim. Is the trim there for any other purpose but bling?

Hi Mark, have a look at these belts. They are for an aussie charger, but should be a close fit for the mustang. They include the drop link like my belts http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_609_Front-Retractable-Drop-Link-Seat-Belt-suit-Charger These were my first option for my coupe until the local rip off merchant screwed me on my belts. If I had my time again I would have just bought these and installed them myself. Expensive mistake but you live and learn.

Toyota Camry and some Mazda models also use the 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern. Might be worth a look too

I need to do this as well. I was going to try a 1/4" drive socket with an extension

I had a similar issue with a Mazda RX7 after it being in the bodyshop for a repaint. Both fuel filters were clogged as was the mesh filter at the carb fuel inlet.

If you are staying with drums on the rear I would drop the wheel cylinder size to 13/16" from the standard 7/8". It's a very common mod here in Australia to sort out rear wheel lock up. They were standard on big block cars.