Mountaineerfan

How did you get the vents out? I currently am replacing the dash pad, and figured I should do this while the pad is off.

Thanks to everyone’s help on here, I have the instrument cluster installed. I hope to goodness the speedo cable is hooked properly. That is much harder to install than it should be. The dash is a repro, and it is just sitting there because I was checking fit. Still have things to finish in there before closing her up. But I’m happy!

How do you remove the vents from the dash?

So I bought a new headlamp switch and that fixed the dash light problems. Still no turn signal lights, but I think that may be an issue with the flasher relay. Thanks for everyone's help! I'm excited to get the interior back together. I'll keep you all informed! Love this site!

Interestingly, I get no continuity across any of the bulbs when I test (see pic). Even on the two that are confirmed to be working. I removed the headlight switch, and had continuity from the switch to the circuit board, so the fuse and wiring seem good in the dash. I was unable to get continuity in the switch itself for instrument lights, but everything else seemed good, so I’ll try a new switch. I tried turn signal, and still no lights. I turned the light sockets 180 def and still no light. I’m getting frustrated, but hopefully the new switch will help!

Success! -ish. Gauges are working, high beam lamp comes on, and parking brake light comes on. Still no dash lights or turn signals. I put in LEDs, but what are the chances I have ALL of them installed backwards?

I took it apart. As I replaced nuts on gauges, I tested each post with a wire on the chassis, and a wire on the post. Never moved the needle. As I placed each bulb, I would recheck the posts. Nothing. I bolt the car on. Still no reading. I snap the board to the CVR, and all of a sudden I get readings of about 4.15 on each post. I’ve included some pics. The CVR bolts directly to the chassis with the circuit board under it. Thanks again for any help!

Should there be a cardboard insulator under the light bulbs?

Are you talking about the bolt holding the regulator on? There is no cardboard there between the board and the chassis. Should there be? None of the gauges are working What readings should I get when using the multimeter. Sorry if I sound foolish, I really thought the board swap/LED install would be easy.... Unfortunately I cannot get my interior reinstalled until the cluster works!

Insulators are there, so that’s good! I’m still chasing the gremlins. Fuses are good, switch is new, voltage regulator is new, board is new. Thanks for all the advice! I’ll keep asking questions as I eliminate problems!

Probably a wise guess (the pinched wire. Possession still possible). When the shop reconnected the lights, they had not connected one of the low beams at all, and had not connected the ground wires from the harness at all. I'll chase the wires for that parking light and see what I find. I haven't pulled the driver's bulb yet to see if it is blown or disconnected.

Do the insulators go under the board, or between the board and the nut? What do they look like?

Not sure about the cardboard insulators. I'll check when I get home. I've switched to LED bulbs, and the switch is new.

As I install the dash on my car, I need another set of eyes as I work on chasing electrical gremlins. I replaced the printed circuit board and voltage regulator, as well as the light bulbs. When I connect the harness to the dash, there are no lights. Did I install the board correctly? Is there anything glaring that I may not have done properly?

So this is weird.... Just got the car back from the paint shop, and have begun reinstalling the interior. When I connected the battery, I noticed that one parking light was on. The light switch is off, there's no key in the ignition, nothing. When I turn the lights on, it's on (so the driver's side may be burnt out....), and when I turn them off, it's on. Any ideas?

She's home!! But of course, as a teacher, school starts tomorrow and I won't have time to do anything for awhile!! Argh! So my first order of business is to recharge the battery. It came back quite dead, but I have a trickle charger on it now, and it's charging up! I want to start with putting the gauge cluster back in, so I figure I need a battery so I can test that!

Not much. She's been in the shop since October getting body and paint done. Rumor has it we will have it home this week! Then the work starts of reassembling the interior.... But I did stop to see her today! All the "Mustang" badging is back on, and weatherstripping was being installed!

I just replaced my circuit panel and changed the lamps to LEDs. I plugged the dash in, connected the battery and turned on the lights. Looked good. I checked the dimmer, and the Dash lights just turned off. So I turned it back on and the lights came on. I turned it off again just to check but then the lights wouldn’t come back on the second time. I also noticed that the turn signal LEDs were not working. Should I check the polarity of them? Could the fact that the lights did not come back on be a result of a bad light switch?

Replaced the faulty master cylinder, replaced the voltage regulator and windshield washer nozzles, then tightened the drivers side seat bolts to the floor.

Good evening! I replaced my alternator tonight with the same type I took off the car. Installation went great, and all belts are tight. Once I started it, it made a hellacious screaming sound, and I noticed sparks flying from the bottom front of the alternator. After investigating the issue, I looked at the old alternator. Apparently the blades on the front of the alternator had rubbed on the pivot arm and had shaved off a notch on each blade! It looks like the new alternator is doing the same thing. Any ideas as to why the alternator would not clear the pivot arm? I have a 302 with A/C, Power Steering. What alternator do you recommend? Thanks!

On the off chance someone would improperly glue the windows, what's the best way to remove the windows from the urethane? Theoretically, of course! :)

How do you remove the windows after gluing them in? Is there a solvent?

Replaced the points and coil with a Flame Thrower and Ignitor. Wow! She fires up well, and seems to have more power/throttle response! Now I need to learn how to rebuild the carburetor....

Thanks everyone! Well, $480 later and they are installed! The shop spent a long time working on getting the original manifolds off and ended up breaking two of them. They were a little nervous about the angle of the downpipe, but they made it work. Off to pick it up tomorrow! Can't wait to hear it, as it has had an exhaust leak since I took ownership of it!

Is the trunk set with posts or stick on?