Mountaineerfan

Acapulco Blue with a small amount of metal flake.

Thanks everyone! So here's the tool I ended up getting. It worked beautifully! It took longer to open the box and look at the directions than it did to actually put the mirror on! Now I have extras for future things that may come up. Right tool for the job....

Okay, this is a rant, just blowing off some frustration.... When the car was repainted after the accident last year, I had a passenger's side mirror installed to match the driver's side racing mirror (for safety, as this is a DD). The installer used sheet metal screws, which made the mirror bounce all the time. I have since found out about the riv-nuts that should have been used (the driver's side is rock steady). I did some research into them, saw how easy it (should be) is to install without the special tool, and ordered a set from NPD. A 10 minute job last night is still not finished today.... I followed the Youtube directions that I found on installing them (because I'm too cheap the buy a specialty tool for a one-time use, and I don't like using a tool and returning it), and found that the rivnuts I have do not have any ridges or way to increase friction on them, so as I tightened the appropriate nut, the whole rivnut would spin in the hole and just extract itself from the bolt instead of crimping. I fought and fought with it. So now I am heading to Harbor Freight after work to spend the $50 on the specialty tool. Dad always said "The right tool for the right job."

This makes me feel better. I was getting irritated about that gap. Glad it’s normal!

I have this same setup. It works great! I did a couple of parades here in Atlanta in the summer, and the needle stayed perfectly still!

See, I can't let that one go. The teacher that I am wants to educate others! :)

Awesome!! Thanks for the pic! Anyone have an old set of these they'd like to part with?

Nope. Didn't know that was a thing! Thanks! Would they have come stock on the vehicle?

That PS hose bracket appears to be broken on one end.

So I've noticed that at night when driving with the headlights on, my front tires are all lit up from light bleed. Now, normally this is a wanted feature, as people spend a lot of money on special LEDs that light up their wheel wells. I'm not sure that is the case here, however. Can anyone tell me if this is normal, or am I possibly missing a shield of some sort behind the headlights. Thanks!

And that was what I thought. It was some 20-something worker at a parts store who was adamant that he was correct. I told him he wasn’t, that I had the paperwork on the car, but he just kept insisting. I decided it wasn’t worth it to engage, paid for my spark plugs and left. Never one to think I know it all, and willing to be corrected if I’m wrong, I came straight here to ask the experts. I’m glad I wasn’t wrong, but where do people get off telling others that they don’t know what they’re talking about in regards to their own car? Once had a guy at a car show adamantly argue that “I” had installed the ornamental scoops backward, even after I explained to him that it was 1969, and who knows what the designers were on that year.

I’m just verifying that I’m not crazy. I have a convertible. I’ve pulled the Marti report on it. I feel pretty confident about it’s history. Had a guy telling me that Ford never made convertibles in 69, they only made coupes. Ford would then send them to another company to chop the roof off, and if you took the trim off, you could see the plugs where the coupe was chopped. Is this correct??

Hey, everyone! So I'm getting tired of messing with the fuel sender and it's poor gauge reading. Has anyone tried a MeterMatch? I've heard good things about it on VMF, but that was with a 65. Has anyone connected one to a 69, and if so, how/where did you splice it into the wiring? https://www.npdlink.com/product/metermatch-fuel-tank-sender-calibrator-and-interface-module/216214?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfuel%2Bsender%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

I did this to my convertible. It cools great, and is perfect for parades, where you have lost of low-speed driving and sitting still.

Thanks! The ignition switch is on the dash. This is the switch I replaced: https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-turn-signal-switch-wiring-fixed-column-1969/p/TSW23/

I've flipped them and tested. No luck.

Thanks for the response! No, I have a 69 convertible. I replaced the turn signal wiring in the steering column at the same time I put in the sequentials. My front signals are bulbs (and blink slowly). I have LEDs coming for those, along with an electronic hazard flasher relay. Dash lights are all LEDs, and all work except for the turn indicators. All exterior lights are bulbs EXCEPT rear sequential tails, and reverse lights. All lights function normally. No, I do not have hood turn signals.

Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm having the same issue!

Background: New circuit panel installed 2 years ago, LEDs installed in dash and tested with meter. Rear LED sequential turn signal lights installed with electronic flasher at the same time. High beam, instrument, brake lights all work perfectly. New turn signal switch in steering column. Exterior turn signals work well (front lights are slow to blink, though). Hazards work (original relay is there) The turn signal indicator lights in the dash will not light up. I have noticed that when starting the car, the Brake Warning light comes on (normal) and the green turn signal lights will light briefly. My question is why the interior turn signal lights are not coming on at all when I indicate a turn? Would the emergency flasher relay need to be replaced with a newer electronic one?

After changing the water pump, I no longer had coolant pooling on top of the timing cover behind the pump, but now I have oil pooling! Got everything cleaned off, then started the car and watched. Started seeing oil begin weeping through a tiny hairline crack on top of the timing cover and running to the area where the pooling was located. Stopped the engine, cleaned everything off, sprayed some carb cleaner just to wipe it down, and then applied a small thin bit of Quick Steel high heat putty to the crack and smoothed it like drywall mud. I let it sit for two hours (package said one), and then fired it back up. Voila! No more oil pooling! I feel good about my fix, as the timing chain cover does not have a lot of pressure to it, and it was just a tiny crack. That was 4 days ago. I've driven it every day, and have been checking. Still no leak! Hooray! The picture show the pooling, although there was usually much more than this! The crack was up at the top of the cover, near the bolt.

Yes it is, and yes it is! Even more exciting, my car was chosen to be in the Mustang Featured Area at the May 2 Caffeine & Octane! Gulp! Time to get to cleaning!!

Not today, but over the weekend: Just got the car back from the shop after the accident. Installed a new FlowKooler aluminum water pump, and took her for a spin!

Thanks for the pics! My shop guy said the top guy wasn’t finished yet, so I sent him your pics to show the guy as he finishes.

Good evening! Starting to get the car back from the shop after the big accident this summer. The shop guy put a new top on, and I have a question: in the attached picture, you can see that the foam is visible on the end of the windlace. Is this normal? Should it be sealed somehow? If so, is it something I can do once I get the car back so I can get it sooner, or do I need to have the top guy come back out to the shop. Thanks!

Thanks, everyone! That stinks that they aren’t reproduced!