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Mountaineerfan

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Posts posted by Mountaineerfan

  3. Posted · Report reply

    BTW, found the major culprit.  

    While doing work in the engine compartment, I (or someone working with me) had somehow pulled the wiring harness away from the shock tower, and it had touched the exhaust manifold bolt.  This managed to burn a small section of the harness, and fused the left turn signal wiring to the wire leading to the solenoid.  It took a long time for me to find, as the spot was on the bottom of the harness and not visible upon looking down at the wiring.  It wasn't until I actually grabbed the harness that I felt the burnt spot.  So some wire splicing later, it's fixed.  

    Yeah, hitting the left turn signal kicked on the starter, but there was no power to the coil, so it didn't actually start, just kept spinning.

    RPM reacted to this

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, all! I’ve got the starter thing sorted (somehow…).

    Next issue: brake lights work. When headlights are turned on, the internal circuit breaker keeps flipping. Brake lights do not work. Taillights do not work. Plug to switch gets hot. Following the wires it seems a black/red wire and a brown (or black, hard to tell) wire are the hot culprits, and they even jump when the circuit flips. I’ve attached a video. I’ve removed the gauges so I could better see the harness. 
    seems like there’s a short somewhere, but where?

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Car was running great. I haven’t touched anything electrical. 
    Sitting at a light, I turn the left signal on, and suddenly got a little bit of smoke coming from around the steering column. I quickly pulled over and turned everything off. I didn’t have any turn signals or brake lights. I got the car, back home, and put a new turn signal switch in, and it’s still doing the same thing. Anybody have an idea why with the ignition off, that the starter would go when I turn the turn signal left? 
    Trying to get back on the road! @Midlife?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I just purchased the Rostra universal cruise control for my 69 vert. I’m planning on using the magnetic VSS on the driveshaft. I’m supposed to set the dip switches for the ppm of my car. I cannot find a chart in the instructions for my car or any car. Has anyone here installed this and have a setting I should use? I have a 302 with C4 automatic and 3.00 gears. 
    Thanks!

  10. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said:

    I'm guessing you already know this, since you have replaced the rotors. The 70  to 73 Factory Calipers are a floating design. They are held loosely in place on two pins with a rubber boot over each pin to keep the caliper from rattling. Spraying brake cleaner, Gumout, or other solvents dissolve these rubber boots which makes the caliper looser to the point where it may rattle when not applying the brakes, and possibly come in contact with the rotor on the front side when applying the brakes. Try replacing the rubber boots if they are old, worn-out or damaged. You can get them at NAPA for a few bucks. 

    I am WELL acquainted with those boots!  I chased a rattling front-end noise for YEARS, tightening everything I could get a wrench on, replacing everything rubber I could find.  Finally, someone here mentioned to me to check those insulators, and lo and behold all of them were missing!!  What a pain!  Since this was my first Mustang, I didn't know that they were supposed to be there!  So yes, those have been replaced!  

    Is it possible that the pins are sticking slightly, causing the flex in the caliper?  I lubed them when I replaced the brakes, but maybe not good enough.  I also had to take a razor blade and puncture the end of the boot, because the suction was causing me problems removing the pins.

    Rich Ackermann reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Just stirring up some conversation here, as I think I know what to do (as this isn't my first rodeo).

    I recently (5 months ago) replaced my rotors on my front disc factory car.  At the same time I installed EBC Greenstuff brake pads.  I followed the break-in procedure.

    For the last month, I have noticed that the left front system is grinding when I push hard on the brakes (coming to a stoplight).  During normal braking, there is no noise.  I checked the pads and rotors, and there is no scoring, and nothing obvious that would be causing the sound.  When I put them back together, I noticed all seemed to be well.  Went to the Tail of the Dragon last week and noticed as the brakes would heat up, the grinding noise returned.  I don't have any vibration occuring, and I'm still able to stop, it's just REALLY loud!  

    I've decided tonight I'm taking the system apart again and inspecting everything and replacing the pads (assuming I find nothing else obvious) with Raybestos ceramics to see if the pads just aren't working right for some reason.

    Any ideas as to what I need to look for?  Dust shield rubbing?   Calipers flexing?

  15. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, capemustang said:

    Yes. I had adjusted the latch a couple of millimeters to rhe right (passenger side) which was the wrong direction. I should have moved it to the left (driver side).  This caused the striker to get stuck on the latch mechanism and not allow the latch to fully open. After my contortions to get into the trunk, I was able to unscrew the latch and then reinstall it properly. For a moment, I was stuck. I might be feeling it tomorrow! 

    Yikes!  I have a convertible as well.  I have no idea how I would fit through those little openings behind the seat!  Maybe if I remove the motor....

    Glad you got it!

    capemustang reacted to this

  24. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/13/2022 at 10:29 PM, nymustang1969 said:

    Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

    Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires. 

    Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the replies! The car is a 69. 
    While I will check what you all have mentioned, I have another theory that I haven’t tested: When I installed the new starter solenoid, it was a black color versus the gray color of the old one. Since that’s when my trouble started, I looked again at the online descriptions of the starters. Apparently the gray one is heavy duty. Could this be the issue? 
    By the way, we made it to Dearborn from Atlanta! The power issue cycles through about three times and then stays on, so we’ve survived the travel. I’m posting on Instagram if you want to see our pics: @stevestang1969

    D5D30095-D329-4476-A33B-AC0868160529.jpeg

    69RavenConv reacted to this
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